TOPIC: merc advice

Hey fellas, just looking for some helpful advice on my merc 1000 (65). I am at the point where I am not sure if I should take it to a pro, look for a different engine or give it a few more tries.Since I got her a few months ago I have replaced; the spark plugs, fuel hoses, impeller, trim tab, and water tube guide. I also un-clogged the pee hole, changed the gear oil and lubed the fittings i could find. While changing the fuel hoses I accidentally over tightened the screw that holds the filter cover down and broke it off.I then spent $130 ! to replace the float bowl cover (becuase of broken off screw), I put it back together and took it out the last couple of days. it started up (with warm up lever and choke )ok, when i shifted into gear it makes a noise and starts to stall unless i give it just a bit more throttle, then its ok. however as soon as i tried to (slowly) give it full throttle it sputters out and dies. BUT ...if I manage to get it into gear (very slowly) it stayed running for at least 2 hrs straight at a time before I shut it down ! and ran fine the entire time as long as i only used the first 2 gears, if i tried to give it any more juice it just died. I have already put over $200 in parts into it. Should I just get another motor ? Did I damage it running it before i had it pumping water properly ? It will cost about 100 to 150 just in gas to get to the nearest reputable marine shop (i live in Colorado ) plus whatever they charge to fix er. I could get a used, just rebuilt johnson or evinrude for 6 to 800. I have heard they are more reliable than mercs.. Please Any advice would help

Shame on you for even considering purchase of an OMC.

It sounds like you are getting pretty close to having the 1000 dialed in.
I'm thinking that the noise you are hearing as you shift it into Forward Gear is simply caused by moving the shifter forward too slowly. Find the range of the control handle's movement from Neutral to fully engaged in Forward gear, but before the throttle control cable starts to move by having a pal watch the port side movement of the shift & throttle control cables at the engine. Then you will know just how far you need to move the control handle to engage the Forward shift. Once identified, you will want to push the control handle that far promptly rather than slowly.

Note: It is a bad idea to attempt to shift the controller into Reverse unless the engine is running, - or - with the engine turned off have someone rotate the propeller as you shift to Reverse.

Then the stall as you try to throttle up is most likely caused by having the idle jets set too lean.
The Merc does not have accelerator pumps in the carburetors, so it is dependent on some extra fuel slobber laying in the throats & crankcase so that when the butterflies are opened there is some fuel mix already present to mix with the big blast of air coming in.
When looking at the fronts of the carburetors from inside the boat, the idle jets are the recessed screws seen at about 1 o'clock outside the throat of the carbs.
They are probably currently set somewhere between 3/4 to 1 turns counter-clockwise from being fully closed.
You may have a very crisp & sweet idle going on at this setting, but once you get all three carbs set the same & in the aforementioned range, you will need to open all three needles an 1/8 of a turn c-clockwise & try to accelerate again.
If it still stalls, repeat the motions by another 1/8 of a turn.
Repeat this until the beast accelerats for you without hesitation.
You might even end up with the idle jets set as far open from fully closed as much as 1 7/8 to 2 turns, but I doubt it will need that much on the old TIGER 1000.

And,...Next time you need a part, please post here. Lots of us have some pretty decent piles of used, but good parts.
I doubt that I would have charged you more than about $5 + postage for one of those $130 float chamber tops.
Please post with results after completing the tests suggested.
Doc Frankenmerc

THANK YOU SO MUCH DOC ! I think you might be right about the shifter thing,it just stalled every time unless I eased it in super gently, I know that shifting should be a positive action. You have me excited to give it another try. i think i set the carb screws about 1 and 1/2 turns (cc) from seated all clockwise set. It was previously set at 2 full (cc) turns from set (all the way clockwise). I thought it may have been to rich .... guess i was wrong.You have me feeling inspired !! I will let you know what happens after my next outing. Thanks for letting me know about having parts. I was itching to get out super bad , and couldnt wait for anything by mail.. I had a buddy drive up the parts from a shop in denver , 2 hours away. I am pretty obsessed . I do nothing except think about boating and prepare for my next time out . I will yoda this thing into working right.. with your help master jedi !!

Used covers for those carburetors are " dime a dozen " so to speak.---I can not imagine anyone paying that much for one of those.---At $130 I would want the whole motor !

I just sold a full set of 3 carbs with hoses and fuel pumps for 60$ on Ebay.....

have you ck'd your timming? Doc can explain better than me, but it is an important thing to have correct...

havent checked the timing. But i did just adjust the carbs. they were originally set at 2 full turns counter clock wise. i had them at 1 and a half to see if that would help. i think it will run better next time out. would like to check the timing tho. also want to replace the cap, rotor and wires, just to be thourough. anyone know what part numbers they would be ?

The cap and rotor are high quality and very spendy as in $$$$$$$ no need to replace them unless they prove to be bad.