TOPIC: Repainting the cowling on the Merc 1975 1500

I have seen the Mercury cans of black spraypaint, and I assume they are for touching up the cowls.

Mine as you can see is pretty faded in places and would really look better if I could repaint it.

Advice? Is it really as easy as masking off the decals and spraypainting it carefully (of course away from the motor and boat)?

Side view...

Is it really as easy as masking off the decals and spraypainting it carefully (of course away from the motor and boat)?

The quality of the job (how well it looks and how long it lasts) on any paint job depends greatly on the preparation before any paint is applied. (Normally applying the paint is not as much work as prepping the project!) Any nicks, chips, peeling paint, etc. should be sanded smooth, and the entire surface sanded for better adhesion. Taping off the decals will probably leave a ridge, raised edge that may detract from the appearance of the finished job.

It's hard to do a "quickie" or "touch up" job and have it look decent when it's done. Plus, it makes it more difficult to do the job right later on, as there is more material to remove to make the whole thing look right. My suggestion would be enjoy your boat this summer, and wait until the off-season to do it right, unrushed. There's a good source for new decals posted here, we can find that for you if you would like. Just my two cents.....

Mark is absolutely right, As for decals - here you go:- 1975 1500 decals

I can vouch for them, they are very good - & the postage will be cheaper for you!

Geoff UK

I agree with Mark. Get it serviced properly if you can't do it yourself, use it.... get to know it to be sure what you have is good.
Use good quality Gasoline not joe cheap gas at the corner station I burn 93 octane gasoline and only use Mercury TCW3 2 cycle motor oil 1 pint per 6 US Gallons NO ADDITIVES. NGK Plugs are good BUHW's are pretty standard. Get a can of power tune and follow the directions to the letter on the can.

If you want the motor to look pretty you can buff and wax it for the season. Wash it down real good using good soap and warm water to get the heavy dirt and debris off of it then begin to buff it out and wax it good.

For a good paint job these motors need to be taken down, blasted in a media blaster clean, degreased then you can begin priming and painting. The quickie paint jobs will look OK for a while too but how far you want to go with it is up to you.

g3jim wrote:

I burn 93 octane gasoline and only use Mercury TCW3 2 cycle motor oil 1 pint per 6 US Gallons NO ADDITIVES. NGK Plugs are good BUHW's are pretty standard. Get a can of power tune and follow the directions to the letter on the can.

Hey Jim!

I've heard 1 pint/5 gallons, but 6 would be correct for my '63? I bought a gallon of synthetic to start with. No additives eh? What's the power tune for and is that a brand name er what?

Why the higher octane gas? Do they ping er sumpin with lower stuff?

Getting ready to launch!

Frank

Amigoid wrote:

I have seen the Mercury cans of black spraypaint, and I assume they are for touching up the cowls.

Mine as you can see is pretty faded in places and would really look better if I could repaint it.

Advice? Is it really as easy as masking off the decals and spray painting it carefully (of course away from the motor and boat)?

I spent an enormous amount of time painting my old '63 Merc1000, and maybe a look-see at this link would help:

www.fiberglassics.com/glassic-forums/main-forum/progress-on-my-14t

Just follow along the thread, you'll see that the first thing I did was clean it real well, then remove labels and sand, clean again, then used etching primer (especially important to coat any bare aluminum before top coat). Only one coat is really necessary, but I did 2 or 3 in most cases for a good base. Then clean again, maybe 3 coats of color, clean again, maybe 2-3 coats of clear.

It's a good winter job in a relatively warm shop!

Good luck!

Frank

1 U.S pint per U.S. six gallons and the higher octane just burns cleaner. Years ago we used to sell Sunoco Ultra 94 at the dock when they used to make it. All outboard-ers would flock to us especially the guys that headed off shore for Tuna fishing. Some guys do use and say 89 is OK to burn but I personally like the 93 octane and a good quality gasoline at that.
OMC, Merc they all make power tune. When I fog engines I use a mix of fogging oil and power tune to let it sit over the winter. If any additive is to be used "carbon guard" (omc, merc they all make it) is OK but use it per the directions and BEFORE you do use the carbon guard get a can of Power Tune follow the directions or you risk detonation.
Using quality fuel products, keeping your motor tuned and clean inside and out will be your best defense against a catastrophic failure. Also a spare power head all set and ready in the background is a good idea when you run the oldies. Nothing sucks worse than having to end the boating season early!

P.S. Frank.....it has been a long road for you on this boat. You have busted your butt and thrown in a ton of heart and sole getting this boat in order. I think along with myself you have an audience waiting for photos and video of this old gal flying across the water. I personally wish you the best on the maiden voyage about to take place. May it be a triumphant and safe run for you and you return to the ramp grinning from ear to ear with great news for us all. All the best!

You are going to have kill lanyard on her aren't you Frank? Ask Conrad about the effects of not having one . . .

Wow thanks for the link!

If you can recommend some specific plugs for the motor, I would like to get a set purchased and pre-gapped and stored in my onboard emergency kit.

I read multiple postings from folks saying 87 is ok, 89 is okay, 91 is mandatory, you're a fool if you don't use jet juel with a little everclear mixed in, etc. The issue with the low octane causing preignition seems to ring true in my ears.

By the same token I have heard comments about the oil, 50:1 32:1, only Merc Motor Salespeople endorse 50:1 because the want you to buy a new motor, etc.

I erred on the side of caution after I siphoned out all the gas that was in the tanks. It smelled and looked fine, but I was not taking chances. I went with approximately a 40:1 mix with new oil, and 91 octane (highest available at the Conoco Station in Aurora) not from the cheapest gas station.

g3jim wrote:

1 U.S pint per U.S. six gallons and the higher octane just burns cleaner. Years ago we used to sell Sunoco Ultra 94 at the dock when they used to make it. All outboard-ers would flock to us especially the guys that headed off shore for Tuna fishing. Some guys do use and say 89 is OK to burn but I personally like the 93 octane and a good quality gasoline at that.
OMC, Merc they all make power tune. When I fog engines I use a mix of fogging oil and power tune to let it sit over the winter. If any additive is to be used "carbon guard" (omc, merc they all make it) is OK but use it per the directions and BEFORE you do use the carbon guard get a can of Power Tune follow the directions or you risk detonation.
Using quality fuel products, keeping your motor tuned and clean inside and out will be your best defense against a catastrophic failure. Also a spare power head all set and ready in the background is a good idea when you run the oldies. Nothing sucks worse than having to end the boating season early!

P.S. Frank.....it has been a long road for you on this boat. You have busted your butt and thrown in a ton of heart and sole getting this boat in order. I think along with myself you have an audience waiting for photos and video of this old gal flying across the water. I personally wish you the best on the maiden voyage about to take place. May it be a triumphant and safe run for you and you return to the ramp grinning from ear to ear with great news for us all. All the best!

Thanks for the tips Jim, you da man. I'll look for some Power Tune. Is it an octane booster er what?

My spare power head is shot. Not much I can do about that right now Jim.

Pics & video to come (maybe...)

Frank

Alacrity wrote:

You are going to have kill lanyard on her aren't you Frank? Ask Conrad about the effects of not having one . . .

A kill lanyard? Hadn't planned on it. Only ever used those on tiller outboards. Help me out here. Where and how is it mounted?

Thanks!

Frank

How can a kill lanyard be added to an existing control rig? I don't have one...

IMO all 'speedboats' should have one. Generally you would mount it somewhere near the driver (dashboard?) & run a pair of wires back to the motor. One goes to earth & the other goes to the kill wire (often orange or brown)on the motor. If the motor has a mercury (the liquid not the outboards!) tilt switch then that is an easy point to mount it. Make sure you wire the switch to make when the cord is pulled (some give you the option to make or break) & its job done. Start the motor then yank the cord - it should stop.

I am not to sure of the specifics of the wiring on your two engines chaps, maybe others will pop up here with details of where to wire it. I suppose it could be wired into the control box but I would need to study that & its generally easier to get to the engine wiring.

It is very simple to do & a potential lifesaver - if not yours then someone else's.

Geoff UK

I understand that if your outboard is a distributor ignition, you can rig the kill switch to cut electric power to the motor and that will stop it. If you're running a magneto or electronic ignition, you must rig the switch so that it grounds out the ignition when activated. (Same switch, just wired differently.) I believe this can be done thru the control box on the distributor type but not sure about the other two systems. One of the vendors we deal with at work offers them, but we don't stock 'em. (I've seen them on several websites.) Their disclaimer in the parts catalog reads "have a professional technician wire this switch". They just don't understand who they're talking to, do they!!!

One of our resident knowledgeable mechanics is gonna have to help us out on the exact wiring.