TOPIC: 1350 parts motor apart

No. 4 was pretty corroded, and pretty much caused me a lot of headache getting the crank out. 3, 4 and 6 have stuck rings. 1,2 and 5 seem fine. 3 ring pistons. Can't wait now to open up the good head! Wanna bet it has 2 ring pistons?

Got all the other stuff off I need, including the fuel pumps and plates they mount to, carbs, electrical stuff, lower cowl, etc. Gonna have a bunch of spare parts, but that's always a good thing with an old merc! Bottom end cap on this motor is toast (corrosion), but the top one is fine.

Frank

I wonder why #4 is crusty? Was the bore rusty too? If so it could have had a water leak in the exhaust jacket.

Im about 99 percent sure your other one will have 3 ring pistons. Now time to tear into it. It looks likeyou have some good used pistons with this one to use if needed.

Gotta run Conrad, going to go get a puppy!

Got the other powerhead off, ready to tear apart later, and answer the 2 or 3 ring question!

3 ring pistons. This fresh water powerhead was a world of difference disassembling compared to the salty yesterday. Pistons look good, 2 have all three rings moving, 2 have 2 rings moving and 2 have one. Cylinders look fine. Upper cap came off hard, lower cap real easy. Now it's clean up time, organize all this 1350 stuff, make sure things are labeled and easy to find. Once that's done, I want to clean up the block and cover and maybe paint them when it's easy to do. Will be a while till I have cash for parts anyways.

The other motor original lead tag was still on, not the case with this one. I figured I'd find oversize pistons, but not that I can tell. Usually oversize pistons are indicated on top, but I can't see any numbers or anything through the carbon, or sides of the pistons.

Thanks again for all the help!

Frank

1350 + Powercat = Frank with a big grin on his face!
Looking good Frank.
Neil

You got it Neil. Even if I don't know what I'm doing, I have a good time for the most part. Got a whole bunch of small projects with this baby, gonna take a while. More questions later, busy morning!

Frank

Jesse was over the other day and we talked briefly about how he restores old wiring, either cutting, soldering and going with new stuff, or heat shrink wrapping lengths of wire.

I'm thinking heat shrink for the stator wires, and cut and solder new stuff for the motor wiring harness?







Real interesting fuel lines on the powerhead cover. I had to remove it to get at cover bolts, and felt bad I ended up ruining it. It looked metallic, but is some kind of plastic?



Finally, no listing in my NAPA catalog for upper and lower cap bearings. Seems to me there wasn't a listing for the 1000 I rebuilt with Dave Cummings' help a few years ago, but somebody here posted some numbers I could interchange at NAPA. The 2 seals in the lower cap and one in the upper for this 1350 are both 18-2016, and that interchanges to NAPA's 11763, which I bet will cost less than the Sierra part #. Anybody got bearing numbers for a 1350?

Thanks for the help, tips, suggestions and mostly the moral support!

Frank

MM 30-32117 rev to MM 30-62567T $56.57 Top End Cap Bearing

MM 30-53853 rev to MM 33-6742T $19.66 SIE 18-1154 $19.33 Bottom End cap Bearing

Top Seal (1 required for top) SIE 18-2016 $8.36 ea or MM 26-41953 $12.46 ea
Bottom Seal (2 required installed back to back) 18-2016 $8.36 ea or MM 26-41953 $12.46 ea
They all rev to the same part number MM 26-41953 you will need 3 all together.
I have bearings and seals but you may do better at NAPA with your discount. I can only offer them for what I paid for them.

On the wiring it is time consuming work. You will be better served to unwind the original tape, try to peel back to some good wire and using the proper wire color codes and good tinned copper stranded wire (ancor or other good marine boat cable) solder your repair or use anco butt connectors that have the adhesive shrink tubing on it. Definately use anco lug connectors with the marine shrink tubing on it. It is better than the liquid electrical tape and less mess. Solder is best then use good marine shrink tube that has adhesive in it.

The gray hose is standard Mercury Fuel Line (as if you bought a fuel line assembly out of West Marine).

Seals cost me $5.14, bottom bearing $12.10, but no interchange for that pricey top one. Got another bearing company #?

Also, only 2 ring sets in the whole country for NAPA. Looks like either use the best ones from the 12 sets I got, or...

thanks for the suggestions on the wiring stuff. I know it is time consuming work, but this is a budget operation! Not much time or $, but time is easier of the two to come by.

Frank

no on the top bearing. I have a few of them but once I get working again I will need them. Was your top bearing gonzo? press it out and reuse it if not. I may be able to spare one but I paid 56 for it plus shipping which does not ad to much sine I got them in bulk.

i've found that lead core solder works much better on the old oxidized wiring. i always keep an eye out for it at yard sales and flea markets. i also use a old 100 watt soldering iron.
have fun

The top bearing is a "5206" and the bottom bearing is a "206".

Here's a new bearing on eBay:



Just watch out for the cheap Chinese bearings on eBay, if you stick with name brands like BCA, SKF, Fafnir, etc you should be OK.

This bearing should also be readily available at most auto parts stores or your local bearing house.

HTH..........ed

i'm new to boat wiring, but pretty well versed in automotive wiring. figured i'd chime in.

1st off. repairing old corroded wiring is more than just soldering a new end and some heat shrink...

missing insulation is one thing. if the wires underneath are free of damage, corrosion and moisture (and please be certain of this) then yeah, you can probably get by with some heat shrink. some of the wires have real thick insulation on purpose. either because it's a critical component and the manufacturer was concerned about protecting it, or (more likely) it's a higher amperage circuit and electricity can escape via a small nick in the insulation, if it were thin. either way, make sure what you put on there will stand up to abuse like the original.

if corrosion is present, that's another thing. corrosion is like rust. it kinda snowballs once it gets started and if you want to fix it you have to remove all of it. in a stranded wire, that's dang near impossible. in a pinch you can put a new end on it and limp home, but i would HIGHLY recommend replacing the bad parts. what i'm learning about old boats is that if the ends are corroded, chances are there's damage inside the harness too. cut the wires back until you have perfectly clean and healthy wire to work with. then solder on new wire and heat shrink, etc.

The other thing about corrosion is that it actually degrades the wire strands. even if you can remove it all, there may be permanent damage to the wires. this can increase the overall resistance of the wire. when you flow power through it, the wire will get hotter than it's designed to and possibly start a fire. bad news.

last thing is the insulation. if the insulation is dry-rotted at all, when you bend the wire the insulation will crack, exposing the conductor underneath. if you're messing with the harness and you bend it (i'm not talking about kinking the wire, just putting a steep curve to it), multiple wires can have broken insulation and short out together. makes for some blown fuses at best, neato fireworks at worst.

the wiring harness in my boat had ends that looked like yours. i started clipping the ends back looking for better wire. when i finally found some that had decent looking strands, i noticed that the insulation wasn't so hot. out of frustration i put a slit in the middle of the harness and pulled wires out to check them. the strands were fine, but the insulation cracked under pressure. i ended up throwing the whole thing in the trash and replacing it from end to end.

new marine grade wire is spendy, but peace of mind is priceless.

just my two cents.