TOPIC: 1972,115,cold start

I have a 1972 115 Merc, I have to crank the starter for a long time for a cold start,after It warms up it starts fine.is this a common problem with these motors?

How do I make this start better when cold,? it's a 1972 115 home, I t start s good when warm, thanks

prime it up with the bulb. then squeeze it very hard hopefully it will dump some gas then start. make sure the choke shutters stay shut while starting.

In addition to what Dave said, make sure you hold down the Choke button until the engine starts. The thing about the choke shutters, if they're warped they won't seal properly against the carbs. The screens are supposed to be held to the carb with a screw, nut, and a spring. If the spring isn't there the shutters might not work right, either. The screw needs to be tight with the locknut, if it's loose the shutters won't be forced into the carbs.

Another issue on these, if you're running a bit lean on idle mixture, it'll make 'em hard to start. Best thing to do is adjust the idle mixture screws in the water, with the engine warmed up & in Fwd gear. Adjust each screw for smoothest idle, then turn CCW about 1/2 turn. You'll have to put up with a "lumpy" idle to have good hole shot and easier starting.

There is one other option, you can install a later-model priming valve in lieu of choke solenoid and shutters/linkages. You'd need to install a tee in the fuel line downstream of the fuel pump (i.e. fuel pump outlet), then tee into the upper vacuum balance tube (rubber line) on the Starboard side of the cylinder block (intake manifold) cover.

The balance tube fittings are screwed right into the reed blocks, so you're shooting fuel directly into the engine. Makes for very quick starts. Later-model (80's) inlines and many others others used a solenoid-operated priming valve and you can find a variety of 'em on eBay.

A trick that my buddy Doc FrankenMerc does is to drill into the front of the float bowl of #1 carb and install a special fitting. This becomes the feed to the primer. Works very well and is a slick install. There's already a hole drlilled there anyway, it just doesn't go all the way thru to the "wet" side of the float chamber. It's a vestigial hole that was used to mount older-style choke linkage.

Here's a bunch of 819503 primer solenoids on eBay:

https://www. ebay .com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=819503+primer&_sacat=0&_sop=15

Copy & paste into your browser, this site parses any eBay link, I don't know why! Remove the spaces and the link will work fine.

List price $164.58 new!

www.marineengine.com/newparts/part_details.php?pnum=MER89-819503T+6

A used one would provide good service at a fraction of new.

HTH..........ed

Our 1965 1000 also is a cold blooded first start. We always start it in the driveway with the water muffs before taking it out. Pump up the bulb firm, then the idle throttle better than half way, almost 3/4 the way open, and press the electric choke while turning the key. After a few cranks, fires Right up and then reduce the idle while she warms up. Prevents a big panic at the launch. We have three other boats and motors, all with different starting rituals. Last words are always, "Are all the lights, radios and locators powered off and the battery switch on off?!" when we shut them down for the day.

I have attached pictures showing various ways I have installed an enrichener on the inline-6.
I don't care for the way I mounted the enrichener on the 1973 1500, as the other installs are much easier.
The earlier inline-6 Mercs with (3) choke butterflies rarely need the conversion to obtain a quick cold start, but I've been installing them anyway.
Once installed, the starting sequence that works best is:
Squeeze the prime bulb until firm.
Turn the ignition switch to "ON", and press the choke button - or 'push-to-choke'.
Go back a firm up the prime bulb again.
Advance the throttle, turn the key to 'START', and push the choke again if the beast hasn't started yet.
You won't believe the difference is a cold start.
doc