TOPIC: Tilt Tube Installation Problem for Doc Frankenmerc

I bought on Craig's List a Teleflex back rack steering set up with 13' cable for my '60 G3 center deck. Even though I used the prescribed measuring protocol, the cable is about a foot too long if I run it down the starboard gunnel and tie into the starboard side of my '92 Merc 75 HP. If I run the cable across the dash to the port gunnel, it's a perfect fit. The only problem is that this set-up requires changing the tilt tube from a starboard hook up to a port hook up. I had no trouble removing the tilt tube from the transom bracket/swivel plate. But, I'm having a hellish time reinstalling the tube from the port side, the problem being that as I removed the tilt tube from the transom bracket, the swivel plate shifted slightly so the holes on the swivel plate no longer line up with the holes on the transom bracket. To make matters worse, as I played around trying to maneuver the engine back into alignment, it came completely free of the transom bracket so that the trim control piston is all that holds the two together. No matter how I've tried to play with the transom bracket, I cannot get it to realign with swivel bracket.

I'm new to Mercs so I'm learning as I go. It looks from from the service manual that I can solve the problem by separating the two halves of the transom bracket, then mating them to the swivel bracket independently, and then rejoining the two halves. Does this sound like the right way to go or is there a better way? I'll appreciate any help, big time.

Doug

Does it have 3 ram or single ram power trim?
Have you tried using the power trim to get things aligned?
If you can get it pretty well aligned, use a deep socket or piece of wood dowel to keep things aligned.

You can separate the transom brackets from the base of the power trim.
Remove (3) cap-screws on each bracket.
Slide the tilt tube through, and then just deal with re-aligning the (3) cap-screws on each bracket, by activating the power trim until things line up.
Be very careful not to cross-thread these cap-screws. Make sure they are properly aligned and get them started straight by hand.
doc

That did the trick, Doc. After removing the tilt brackets, I was able to slide the tilt tube right in. After reassembling the brackets to the swivel plate, I used the tilt mechanism to realign the bolt holes and secure the bolts. Thanks again for your insights.

I have another question. The tilt piston on my engine is held in place by a wide diameter bolt (about 1" I'm guessing) that ends in a threaded section that measures 1/2" X 1 1/2" that fits into a block that is part of the swivel bracket casting and is held in place by a 1/2" nut. None of the illustrations in my service manual shows this bolt. Instead, they show a rod that is held in place with a pin but which extends into the aforementioned block. When I tighten the nut to the max, there is still some space between the shoulder of the bolt where the threaded section starts and the cast-in block. Would it be appropriate to fill this space with a stainless washer or should I just leave alone? Thanks again for helping me out (again.)

Doug

Locate your relative serial number group in the following link, then locate the matching power trim components page, and let us know what item number you are concerned with.
www.marineengine.com/parts/mercury-outboard-parts/75-3-cyl
doc

The serial # on my engine is 0D230618. The part numbers are: 17-821539 - Pin, Trilobe; and 99625002 - Upper Shaft. I've attached two photos of my engine's tilt piston to illustrate the difference between the MarineEngine parts illustration and what I have on my engine. threaded end of the shaft. I checked the parts illustrations for all of the serial numbers MarineEngine lists for the '92 3 cyl 75 HP and all of the trim pistons listed and they all show the two parts listed above. None of them have a threaded shaft. As I've studied the lower unit, I can see it may have endured some sort of impact as some parts of the casting are damaged. If it did, it's possible the previous owner replaced the damaged piston with one from a later model engine that used the threaded shaft. I'll be interested in your take of what I've got.

Doug

I'm pretty sure that someone has replaced the original "upper shaft" and "Pin, Trilobe",...With a home-made (upper shaft) & a lock nut (Pin, Trilobe).
It also looks like the home-made 'upper shaft' is too small (O.D), which - if I'm correct is a really bad idea.

I'm not sure on the horizontal sideways extra space.
Maybe a case of a mismatched ram & swivel housing?? I'm not sure.
I'll look tomorrow & post.
doc

Sorry about the delay in replying.
Based on my looking at several '88-'92 L-3 & L-4 PT units, I strongly suspect that you have a mismatched assembly that needs to be corrected to be safe.
J.Poole Jr has posted warnings about the various Merc PT(s), and their differences.
Some single ram units are 'off center', and some single ram units from different models - serial number groups - can be different.
A real PITA if you're not on 'first base' with all these potential issues.
If the Mercury's serial number is still on the swivel housing (starboard side - seen when standing aft of the swivel housing),...Compare the relative PT parts in a parts breakdown to what you have.
Beware too that some images of the various parts break-down pages can be generic in appearance, but typically the subsequent images 'clicked on' might show the actual & correct part.
doc

Not quite the answer I was hoping for, but it is what it is, I guess. My serial number is clearly visible on the swivel bracket. I've only been able to find one OEM part (Quicksilver #8M0090335) that has a picture I can compare to the part on my engine. From what I can see, my part is a somewhat beefier version of the shock rod. Other than that, the parts appear identical. You mentioned comments from J. Poole, Jr. regarding PT safety concerns. I'd like to read what he has had to say and wonder if you can direct me to where I might find his posts? As always, I appreciate and value your insights.

Doug