TOPIC: 1977 1150 link and sync issue

I have started the link and sync as seen on youtube. When I set the flywheel to 5 degrees BTDC, and rotate the distributor housing, I get no spark. I removing the distributor cap and the rotor is pointed at the number one spark plug wire position. The cylinder one is at the top of stroke. All my grounds are in place and tight.

Any suggestions?

Did the motor run before starting the process? If it did, make sure the plug is out of the head, and the threads are touching a good ground.
When I did this, I went through step by step. Wasn't pleased with the performance, so did it again, very carefully. Again, ran poorly. I then went with the timing light method, and I'm much better. For some reason, I couldnt get Dr Frankenmerc's method to work out (even though most find sucess with the method).

Will

I have attached the steps required to sync & time the 1970-early
1979 inline-6.
Hopefully this sequence helps.
Just remember to follow the steps start to finish.
Doc Frankenmerc - Keeping Mercs alive since 1965

Here we go:

As always Doc has gone above and beyond taking the time with verbiage and pictures.
I will try to add...
I have found most people get confused over the first part of the procedure finding top dead center with the fake plug to set pointer. This is something that is NOT done on most gas motors you would encounter. The good Carl Kiekahfer and company were perfectionist and wanted to make sure TDC on the timing label, when lined up with the pointer was indeed the top most location of piston travel, or actual TDC. So they made the pointer adjustable, so when true piston TDC is found you adjust the pointer location to align with the TDC on the label.
Some earlier year inlines ( non direct charge)with thunderbolt ignition had no adjustments, you just timed using the label markings and line on the flywheel. The very early inlines with points had no timing marks and everything was done based on the piston location, they have a special dial indicator for this. Anyways, the obsession for absolute accuracy does make it cumbersome to set up or at least recheck. Keep in mind once you have done this, you won't need to do it again....unless the hold down bolt loosens!
I have surmised that the inlines with direct charge where found to be very fussy on ignition timing so a better level of accuracy was needed than on the cross flow types. One sees a dramatic reduction in full spark advance on the direct charge motors Approx 21 degrees full on a direct vs 34 to 36 or so on cross flow inlines and Merc revised total timing downwards on the 1500's to minimize detonation by only 2 degrees so small changes mattered to them...I digress, but this should be checked.
Back to no spark,
One thing that comes to mind is the ignition switch is not on, so switchbox is not powered, key should be turned to "run" position. You could also run a jumper from the red wire to the white terminal on the 4 terminal side of the switchbox. The red is always hot and the white is the switched hot.
You may not be rotating distributor clockwise far enough so when you rotate it CC it will "trigger". The trigger wheel in the distributor is a series of rectangular holes and the metal between holes must pass through the pick-up in the distributor to trigger the switchbox. These are inductive type triggers so it senses when metal cuts across the small electrical field in the pick-up ,it is not like an LED system that triggers when it sees the light signal through the window. It is the action of the metal passing through you are doing to induce the system to fire so make sure that is what is happening. It is the movement of the metal portion past the pick-up that will trigger the switchbox.
This is exactly analogous to a points system based firing exactly as points open ( if you are old enough to know those!!)
Another gottcha is if you or someone replaced timing belt and got it wrong, recheck this simply by removing the distributor pulley top cover and check arrow and flywheel alignment, it is easy to get this wrong by one cog unless you have done it a few times.
Well good luck it all seems a bit involved the first time doing this so I hope it's helpful to understand what each step is for rather than simply following instructions.
Randy

To clarify a few things; I have never seen this motor run. When the boat was purchased, the distributor cap was hanging by the plug wires and was damaged. The rotor was corroded due to the cap being left off. So I installed a new cap and rotor. Then found that the trigger was bad.

I ended up purchasing a complete distributor on Ebay, but unfortunately it was damaged in shipment. Now I have taken both distributors and built one out of the two.

I understand how inductive sensors work, the company I work for uses them on the Hi-Tech grinders I work on. I have also worked on antique tractors, so I understand points too.

So if I understand correctly, if turning the distributor causes it to fire off. As a simple test I removed the belt and turned the pulley on the top of the distributor to see if it would spark then. Still nothing. I have 12.4 VDC at the white terminal and 12.7 VDC at the red terminal.

It does spark if the motor is turned over with the starter.

I haven't started the complete link and sync as spelled out by the Dr. Frankenmerc. I have to find a stop to screw into the spark plug hole. I will build one from my fitting for the compression tester.

Unfortunately, my real job is sending me to China for a few weeks, so the tower of power is going to wait for me. I am going to miss the 4th of July this year. I really appreciate all the information, I would like to thank all of you for the help.