TOPIC: 1500 carbs

So I'm finally doing the carb job on my 78 1500 I-6....There has to be some slick way to get the nuts off, I just don't know it. I can't get a wrench or a socket to them without tearing apart too much stuff. How do you experts get to the carb mounting nuts without removing everything else?

Will

You can go after the carburetors with a 1/4" drive socket assembly after removing the tops from the float chambers, but with the distributor model inline-6 like yours, it is pretty tough to fish out the carburetors without doing significant disassembly.
It actually takes less time to remove the obstacles than try working around them.
I remove:
Top cowl support - disconnect the choke wire too.
Front cowl support - disconnect distributor wires & internal harness wires to the switchbox, etc.
Remove the starter.
Remove the distributor cap.
Remove the tops on the float chambers.
Then you can go after the carburetors with a 1/4" drive socket assembly.
doc

What the good doctor said is golden. Also, I purchased at great expense a set of 1/4 drive flex sockets from Snap On that seem to help as well, not cheap but they are thin and sneak into places I never though possible. However just moving things out of the way is sometimes the best policy, sorry.

getting nuts off is easier than putting them back on.

I have the front support unbolted, but didnt remove the wires yet. I have to bolt back up so that I can get an inspection done (they make sure there is not one single drop of water anywhere in the boat- even the motor). Then it's back to the tear down. Looks like a relatively simple job, once I get them out.

Will

dave bernard wrote:

getting nuts off is easier than putting them back on.

That's for sure!

Got my inspection done early this morning. Got home and decided to jump right in. Labeled, then pulled the wires from the front support. Removed front and top supports. Pulled the starter, and the plate on the distributor. Didn't touch the distributor otherwise. Bowl tops came off and got new valves, then pulled the 3 carbs. Easy. Take apart, clean, put back together with new gaskets.
The hardest part was cleaning the gaskets off the block, and even that wasn't too bad. Oh, and the nuts were easy to put on too. Then I put everything back where it belongs.
First prime, gas is leaking...oh, I forgot to tighten a clamp. 2 minutes and all better. Then gas is pouring from carb 3. Remove the cap and find I made a mistake on the measurement. No more leak.
This motor has always been hard to start cold. First time up and I barely touched the key to fire it! Friday to the lake to make in water adjustments.
Thanks to Doc and the rest for the help.

Will

Got the Kona out on the lake today. Started right up, and gave me no hassle all day. Still idles a bit low, and I tried to adjust the idle jet (in the water, FWD gear) with no result. Also tried the idle stop screw, again no result. This would probably be solved with a link n sync, but after ignoring the family for an entire day getting the carbs done, it will be a while before I do any significant jobs.

Will

remove the throttle cable adjust the stop then readjust the cable and install.

I thought the timing would be mostly cclose, but went and set my distributor last night. Was I ever wrong. Kinda surprised it idled at all. Now it's all set, just waiting for a day off to see how she runs.

Will

A strong motor will run with the timing all messed up good way to melt a piston!! Good catch!

I followed the Doctor's tried and true method of setting the timing (used a dial indicator to find TDC). Got it all set, went to run it, and now its horrible. I repeated the process again last night, and all the set points are dead on. I think I better check that the distributor belt was installed correctly, then try again.
Oh, the joy of old stuff.. But at least I can do all this myself with just a few handtools, no computer needed!

Will