TOPIC: Crucial extraction on 65 1000

This is a special problem ! I was a negligant boat owner and didn't winterize last fall, my l/u didn't take this well and popped the prop out. To get back in the water (hopefully soon) I decided the best course of action to be removing a sound lower from a 73 115 I got last summer and haven't got running yet.long story short, my old l/u was a short shaft with extension kit. I did not realize until recently that the driveshaft extension peice is actually residing in the driveshaft "shaft". It is loose but will not just fall out. I am hoping someone has a smart idea here. Really really don't want to pull the power head to access this thing. If I can get this ting out I will be boating soon . my only ideas are using job weld to attach a screwdriver or something to pull it out .... Or some type of drill/tap scenario. Thanks for the help boaters

Pic

You need an expanding collet for blind bore bearing races, preferably the type that fit onto slide hammers so you can push it up into the spline bore , expand the collet and withdraw the adapter. Best to see if you can rent or borrow one.

If it's loose, it should come out. On some motors, they catch right where you see in the pic. It's entirely possible that the P.O. had to pull the powerhead and install the stub extension shaft from the top, then reinstall the powerhead. You'd have to do the same to get it out.

Maybe you can get some kind of small burr grinder, etc on an extension shaft up into the cavity, and "excise" some of the interfering aluminum on the sides. Probably won't take a lot to clear.

Worst case, pull the powerhead, it's just one gasket and not too bad a job, especially if you have an engine hoist or a come-a-long and place to lift from.

I used to be able to have one of those apart in less than 30 minutes back in the day, almost with eyes shut!!! Probably a bit slower nowadays I reckon!!!!

thanks guys. ed-mc , when you say its just one gasket , I assumes you mean that only one gasket needs replacing when you pull the power head. Still seems like a big job. Removing the electrical, starter, linkages, etc , seems like a bit more than 30 minutes of work, but Im sure after youve done it a few times you know the process. not sure what i will try , but I will update with results

It's a piece of cake! Trust me, I'm a trained pro-fesshunal!!!!

If you get to the point of having to pull the powerhead, we can run thru the list of things to do. BTW you shouldn't have to pull the starter, it can come right off with the rest of the powerhead.

So I got the tool ed mentioned ,atltough I did give it a try or two, it didnt seem like this would work with out serious damage, so I will attempt the removal of the power head. Please give me the "run through list" ed
Thanks

An impact drill, or a "butterfly" pneumatic wrench will greatly speed the disasembly. Back in the 80's I didn't have any of that and was working with a power screwdriver. Even that made the job go faster.

Anyway, I'll pick my brain and try to cover the main points:

>Unplug external wiring harness;

>Pull the "horse collar" trim piece under the lower cowl (2 screws per side);

<pull the "top hat" which should be latched on a '65, as I recall;

>pull the 4 bolts at the top rear of the upper cowling support (note that once you unbolt the top, the rear support will pivot to the rear a bit for more clearance. If it's too tight to pivot, loosen the bolts which hold the support to the lower cowling "pan";

>remove the (2) bolts at the top front of the upper cowling support;

>note that the upper cowling support can remain bolted to the powerhead;

>Disconnect the choke rod from the carburetors; the choke rod should be able to stay in the front cowling support;

>Disconnect the telltale hose at the lower cowling, right-rear;

>Disconnect all electrical leads coming from the internal wiring harness that are connected to the powerhead. Should be: rectifier, starter motor, ground, choke wire, tach wire if present; any wiring between powerhead and front support;

>Disconnect the main fuel-feed line coming in, from the fuel pump. You shouldn't have to undo any other fuel lines;

>On the Port side of the powerhead, disconnect and remove the shift and throttle cables. You can leave the throttle arm attached to the powerhead;

>On the shifter sliding arm, remove the nylock nut for the little connector that holds down the end of the shift cable. Remove the swivel piece and the plastic "slider" piece underneath. You can leave the spring in place on the end of the shifter arm, or pull it for safe-keeping;

>Loosen & remove the (3)-per-side rear powerhead nuts. These are full-thickness nuts and should come right off;

>At the very front you'll find (1) half-nut on either side. Run each nut down until the nut is flush with the end of the powerhead stud;

>With a suitable prying tool (Wonder-Bar or a very large flat screwdriver work well), pry between the nut and the mount structure until the powerhead breaks free;

>Once the powerhead breaks free, you should be able to rock it from side-to-side with the front (2) nuts;

>If it's reluctant to break free, go to one of the rear studs, turn a nut around (or get another non-locking fine-threaded nut) and tighten the nut down until some threads are showing at the end of the stud. Stack up some flat washers, along with whatever other spacers you need, until the space between the nut and the lower structure in the exhaust tower is filled. You would then run the nut down against the stacked-up washers, etc, which effectively will drive the powerhead upwards with great force;

>if you have a motor lifting eye, you could have put upwards pressure on the powerhead and maybe it would lift right away. If you don't have a way to hoist the powerhead in the air, You'll need some help to snatch it up and carry to the bench. Unless you've been eating your Wheaties!!!!

Installation is the reverse of removal (sounds simple, eh!).

Caveat; be sure to check for yourself that every wire, ground, linkage, etc that would hinder the powerhead's removal is done.

I can't guarantee that the one or 2 brain cells which held that information are still in existence!!!!

HTH & Have a lot of Fun!..........ed

Oh boy.... Now I was ok til about step 12, when you start talking about the half nut and then pry tool I got nervous. I wonder if swapping outboards would be easier. I dont have a hoist (I do have a come along, but no garage or beam to hang it from ) so I would need to rent a cherry picker to pull this off . I dont eat enough wheaties ! I am all of about 140 lbs ...so I dont know about manhandling the beast. I am at a standstill.. unsure of the best way to proceed. Do I proceed to attempt tearing this thing apart just to remove this stupid extender ? What to do with the blown out lower ? is there parts I should salvage ? Do I look for a new/different vessel...perhaps its time. I was hoping to retire this boat at the end of the season anyway (it has sustained damage to the hull directly on the corner of the hull and transom below the drain plug). It just seemed like the fastest way to get back out for a few goes around the lake. A bit confused and defeated over here. Needing direction and inspiration

2 people can lift the powerhead out. tilt the boat till the lower hits the ground so you don't have that far to lift.

Thanks Dave, .I will give it a try . worst case scenario is i have a pile of parts ,still no boat . what gasket is required for this ? Hopefully the powerhead will only be off for a few moments while I remove the extension.

The powerhead to driveshaft housing gasket. or on the cheap use gasket sealer on the old broken gasket. wont wok every time. do you want to pull the powerhead again?

This should be the assy diagram for the lower cowling, which includes the 27-47257 powerhead base gasket (#23 in the diag):

www.marineengine.com/parts/mercury-outboard-parts/1000/1768404-thru-2318585/bottom-cowl-and-shift-linkage

Check the serial number of your engine to make sure it's in the range listed on the website.

It's less than $10 shipped on ebay for a new gasket, is it really worth messing around with an old gasket for that $$?



The old gasket is either gonna tear or break, as I don't expect your powerhead has ever been removed. I wouldn't want to reuse a 50-yr-old critical-seal gasket at any rate.

Be sure the gasket pictured looks like yours. If the cowling arrangement you see in the diagram is like yours, I'll pretty much guarantee that's the correct gasket.

Just my $.02..........ed

Thanks Dave ,and ed, the powerhead must have been removed previously, as the driveshaft extension that is stuck could have only gone in through the top. Otherwise I would have given removal from below a more serious attempt. However it quickly became obvious this was not possible. The extension piece could not fit through that opening. Had to have been dropped in from the top. Seems like too much work just to run a longshaft on a short drive outboard . I will order a gasket asap. As I am not a gasket reuser type. Thanks again for every post fellas all helps.

discoboater wrote:

Thanks Dave ,and ed, the powerhead must have been removed previously, as the driveshaft extension that is stuck could have only gone in through the top.

Oh, Yeah, I forgot, silly me, the whole reason for this thread!

I agree, an awful lot of work to install a longshaft kit and plenty work to remove it, too!

The only redeeming thing in this whole sordid ordeal is that the longshaft kit does have value and you can probably get some good $$$ for it on eBay!!!!

Most of the newer inlines are wide enough in the exhaust tower to let the stub pass thru the bottom. It is pretty irritating though, when you go to take one of those down and the stub sticks itself in the driveshaft.

Usually I'll seal the splines of the stub to the driveshaft with RTV and this keeps the dang thing from falling off when you go to reinstall it.

Any way you cut it, those kits are a pain in the Arse!

It looks like someone has possibly already shaved the exit point for the stub shaft, and you might just need to rotate the stub shaft a bit to slip it down and out.
It will not come out from the top (engine removed) without a TON of extra disassembly.
See attached pictures for details.
doc
OOPS,...
Pictures were for the later dual square port exhaust Mercs.

Hey, Doc, that pic of the exhaust extension plate looks like a later-model, split tuner-plate? This old Beastie wouldn't have that piece, with the skinny hole in it. It would just have the thin tuner plate sitting on top of the full-length exhaust tower.

Just wonderin' what my Lyin' Eyes are seeing!.......ed

thanks for the help ans chiming in doc. So I am wondering now , after eds last post should I not remove the powerhead ? If I need to do all of this additional work as well ( A Ton ) as doc put it, makes me more nervous. I have already removed most of the stuff to get the powerhead out, BUT would GLADLY replace it all if the good doc says its best to go out the bottom. I am waiting to see the outcome of this between doc and ed, however out the bottom would be preferrable !

The good doctor (me) was totally full of Prunes on this one & I do apologize.
I somehow was focused on the later model Mercs - even though the entire post has been about a 1000.
AND,...To top it off,...Xfinity - Comcast internet has been down here since yesterday afternoon when I realized my fooh-paw, and I was unable to post a correction.
I tried until after 3 A.M. & finally surrendered to my pillow.
It is 6 A.M. now, but now that I admitted my goof - I'm back to bed.
Sorry all, and I to my good pal and Mercury Guru - ed mc - I humbly eat my crow at your feet.
doc

thanks for the correction Doc, However What direction should I proceed in ?? Now Im really unsure. So your saying it can be removed either direction (top or bottom ) ? If thats the case I would much prefer the bottom of course. It wouldnt cost me a gasket and a hoist, And would likely be faster. What would you try ? Through the bottom or out the top ? I am extremely anxious to get my baby wet again and need to tie this up, before moving on to the next project. I am very grateful to you fellas for helping to keep the dream alive. About to head out on my buddies 28 ft searay cuddy cabin cruiser for the next day or 2, after I return from that I WILL get this dang thing out and hopefully back out in water.

If it won't come out the bottom, it has to, and will come out the top after the powerhead is removed.

I wonder if you can get a long file up there and file a bit off the sides of the exhaust tower, until there is enough clearance for the driveshaft stub to drop. Might work better than a grinder.

That's about the only alternative to pulling the powerhead, that I can see.

G'luck........ed

Your the best ed! Thank You. I am going after it tomorrow afternoon. Gonna use a long file , that extractor thing (bearing tool and slide hammer) that I rented before and lots of patience and optimism !

UPDATED :So I rented the same tools again, and bought a set of files (as the lady would not allow me to use hers for this !) After filing for few moments I noticed that the file was able to push the extension quite far into the shaft housing, at one point I also noticed that the area were the water tube resides that is next to the driveshaft vein was open enough for me to put another file in there and basically move the extension piece out through that water tube area without further filing. Took me about 5 minutes ! I had to post a picture of the object of my dismay !I put the nearly removed powerhead all back togther. Then decided to put the new water pump impeller bought from one of the finest fellows on this site Mr. Joe Poole. However call me a fool , but when I got the pump housing off I could bring my self to replace those parts ... they look brand new, gaskets plates housing, impellar all of it looks new, so I left it. Today I returned the tools unused again, went home and attempted to install this other L/U.I kept coming up with an extra 1/2 centimeter gap between the plates, narrowed it down to the water tube I will likely shorten it a touch tomorrow. Then hopefully a test fire on the muffs. Will report tomorrow

I suspected the water pump housing to be higher on the L/U on the 73 than on the 65, so I cut the water tube a tiny bit ,Got everything lined up and L/U in place then realized that all 3 bolts that come through the top of the L/u Were not in sight ! The originals of course are way to short to make it through the driveshaft extension plate. The old (65)Lower has what appear to be aftermarket long bolts installed. I attempted to remove the originals on the 73 with vice grips to no avail. What is the trick to "extracting" these ? Hopefully in good enough condition to reuse ! Or do I cut em off and drill out and retap threads and buy new bolts ? Help please

Vise Grips and heat, unless you have a stud extractor which, unless you can get it down on any part of the stud that's unthreaded, will chew the heck out of the stud's threads.

Get a stout torch, a regular old propane torch may not be hot enough, but a propane torch on MAPP gas likely will.

G'luck!..........ed

So I managed to get the studs out of both lower units AND after a few attempts got it in and all back together. Just as the sun was going down I hooked it up to the muffs ,...fingers crossed, and she roared to life ! I checked the operation of the lower unit by engaging first gear only, made a bit of a clunk noise but engaged and disengaged , back to neutral a couple of times. I did not try reverse or any other gear, I have heard your not supposed to do that on the muffs.Any way , I am one happy puppy ! After some detail work tomorrow I am off to go boat camping on monday. Thanks for the help ed, The "double-nut" technique is how I got them studs out. A bit of help from some vise grips too ! I will post a pic after shes nice n clean tomorrow.
Best to you all