TOPIC: 1962 Buehler Turbocraft Jet 35 update

The last few weeks have been busy with work, but I am slowly gaining on the "project". I pulled the engine, a 327 Rambler Gray Marine and pulled all of the hoses for replacement. Pulled the carb and intakes for cleaning and rebuild. Ordered new hoses, OUCH! $175 and that is my mechanic's discount!
Pressure washed and degreased everything and the dried it out, pulled the plugs and oiled the cylinders and turned it over to make sure all was lubricated. Now I am awaiting the paint to come in for the repaint. I will bead blast the valve cover gaskets to clean them up a bit, but all looks really clean. I will hopefully be able to find original decals for the valve cover gaskets,
Today was spent on the hull with the trusty die grinder. I have been going over everything with a fine tooth comb to make sure I find all of the stress cracks and hull dings. Hats off to all who post in the research area for giving all of us a blueprint on doing these home restorations. It has been so helpful!
Tonight, I started the task of filling with Duraglass on all of these areas and spots. It seems never ending! I am taking my time, working through the process and really enjoying myself. It seem to be part of the journey, I keep thinking of how sharp it will be when it is all done and that keeps me motivated to slowly work to that end....Pictures if I can get them loaded soon!

Looking forward to those photos. Mine is still progressing also!

Spent part of yesterday filling all of the areas that I had to grind out with Duraglass. Today I had to have my car tuned up, so I spent a few hours on the sanding process. Wow, I have a lot of sanding left! The first filling od Duraglass was pretty thorough, but I still will have to do a few areas over again to get them filled.
I have a question for everyone on the primer. I would like to use a two part and tip and roll on the primer. Any thoughts or preferences on brands? I have someone lined up to spray the color as that is his profession. It is our agreement that I do all of the prep work to help save on my costs. I rolled and tipped my plywood hull Century with good results, but am not sure I could get those results on this hull. I would welcome all thoughts and comments on this...
Meanwhile, I have a lot of tough sanding to do!

Spent the weekend filling and sanding...Lots of sanding and the more I sanded, the more stress cracks I found. So, it was more filling with the Duraglass and then where it was needed, I used the Evercoat 400 to fair the repairs. It is slowly coming together and I have to say that the resource articles on this site are really a great guide for the do-it-youselfer like me. I have a buddy that is going to spray the boat for me, so that will be good. I hope to be ready for him to put the first coat of primer on after next weekend.
I keep going around the hull and feeling every repair and if it doesnt feel fair, I use tape to mark the spot and move on. Then I mix the Evercoat and fill some more. You kind if get into it, and seemingly, the more fixated I have become. And a common thought that goes through my head is that this will be the last major project for a while...I know, famous last words....

It sounds like both our projects will be completed on time for a meeting next summer! I'll be updating mine shortly.

Hi Hornet,
time to multi-task.... While you are working on your boat you can be stripping the paint off your valve covers at the same time.
It's the electrolysis method. My water solution is Arm & Hammer laundry detergent, battery charger, short rebar pieces you can get at home depot for like 2.50, and a bucket of water.

This really works well. I've done it many times, and you don't have to do anything, but clean the part when it's done. The only thing to be carefull of is: not letting the negative charges part touch the positive anode (rebar) And most important do not hook the positive to the part, or your part will be eaten away instead of the rebar. Also Hydrogen gas is produced in this process (very flammable) so do not keep you bucket of solution in a confined place.
The part will come out looking black, but with a cup wire brush on a drill motor works great. see the attached link:


The supplies are cheap, and its so easy, you'll wonder why you never tried it before ?

Good luck on your project !!!
By the way. don't try to use the new digital smart chargers. You have to use the old fashion needle guage chargers.

Thanks for the tip Chuck, I will have to try it. My engine is pretty clean, just a bit of surface rust on the valve covers that is very light. I have it all cleaned, just need to tape off to ready for painting. I think I have NOS engine tags located and decals as well. I want to make it mostly stock looking yet have the copper lines and brass polished instead of painted. My mechanic has a bead blast booth that I may try as well. He is great to share his shop as I help him with launching and retrieving all of his wood boat customers. Indeed a dear friend who my family has "adopted" as one of our own!