TOPIC: Teleflex Cable Replacement

I need to replace the steering cable on my 1966 18ft Span American. I would like to get a new cable that requires as little retro-fitting as possible. I am not seeing any cables out there like mine with the threaded on ball disconnect on the outboard side with a clamp style pivot.

Any tips would be appreciated. Thanks!

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You might give the crew at Jamestown Distributors a call Bedo, they have a pretty good assortment of the Teleflex cables and fittings;
www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/search.do?freeText=teleflex+Cables&page=GRID&engine=adwords&keyword=teleflex_cables_sitelink&gclid=CNTAm-O_5b4CFSJo7AodoAIAGw

Hi,
Mark's advice is always worth listening to, but I am very skeptical that a new cable that old in the correct length can be had (they were discontinued decades ago). My advice would be to purchase a new steering system (you may find that the existing dashboard hole is still the correct size). I give this advice as the steering cables for the threaded helm units are very close in price to a kit. There are several areas to possibly discuss, but you will have to purchase a clevis kit and a replacement transom mounting tube with external threads (versus the internal threads your picture seems to show. However, if you have an outboard motor with a tilt tube, and the boat's splashwell is not unusually narrow, you may opt to change to a through-the-tilt-tube steering connection, and purchase a link arm assembly instead (of the tube and clevis kit). I do not trust the color when viewing on my computer of the plastic coating of your original cable, is it white, or faded blue? Another thought would be the angle of the steering wheel shaft in regards to the dashboard. These can be 90 degrees, or 70 degrees (referred to as a 20 degree tilt). I am enclosing a picture of a 20 degree tilt steering wheel shaft for your study. If you would like to speak directly, our cell phone is 770-597-5992 (please no calls from outside the US - e-mails are welcome though), and I will try to walk you through the needed parts, and provide you with some quotes for your consideration.

Regards,
Joe
www.fergusonpoolemarine.com
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Joe just, well 6 months ago, helped me with a similar issue, although we went with just the cable since my boat had an angled helm. He cand definitely help you out. Thanks Joe I just iinstalled it last weekend. You may need to lift your engine to go through the tilt tube.

Hi,
In revisiting my answer based on Tom's comment, I am more inclined to think that the cable shown is a Big-T or Safe-T, and therefore, a replacement cable is an option (a Midi-T would not be), and would then eliminate the trouble of replacing the helm unit. A new support tube for the transom mount assembly (the picture shows the cable with the support tube and adapter still installed) and a clevis kit will still be required. If like Tom (as I best presently remember), you can convert to "through-the-tilt-tube" steering connection, this would be the time to do it, but this would depend on the year, brand, and horsepower of the outboard involved.

Regards,
Joe
www.fergusonpoolemarine.com
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My apologies Joe for not thinking of you first as a reference for Bedo on this issue! Your initial response with the thought that a complete system (cable and helm) is only a few dollars more than a cable alone definitely bears consideration. Many times what is thought to be a serviceable rotary helm has "play" (from wear) in it that will leave the boater wondering why the new cable didn't correct the problem completely! (I know this from experience.)

The helm end of Bedo's cable appears to be the common rotary helm design, but the "motor end" is the strange bird to me. Is that not the "spring lock" design that was discontinued because it was deemed unsafe? Please forgive my ignorance here if this is incorrect, always attempting to learn more....

Like Tom, Joe has helped me out immensely with many items that have come up when attempting to figure out these older systems! Your best bet here Bedo is to get in touch with Joe and let him help plan your best solution IMHO.

Hey Mark,
My take is that all the steering connections which had a spring involved for quick disconnection (it was once common for outboards to be removed from the boat and storage separately, typically indoors, then reinstalled the next season) of an outboard were changed (during the 1960's and early 1970's) to reduce the perceived possible liability issues. There were many of these produced, so I am not sold-on them being unsafe, but the threaded cable ends were eliminated to force the change.

Best,
Joe
www.fergusonpoolemarine.com
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I have a complete teleflex Big-T system removed from my 20 foot Mako Center Console. I upgraded to hydraulic steering as the 200 HP.
All components in fine shape, helm, cable, support tube and bracket, plus clevis kit for Johnson/Evinrude. Everything you would need. Cable length is 15 feet, and would likely be the determining factor of your ability to use this setup. Check your cable length, and let me know if this setup would be a help to you. Was going to list on e-bay, but I'll wait to hear if you can use it.
Bob

well i know sometimes the older equipment is better than some of this knock off stuff out there today, but i was told dont take shortcuts with steering i bought a new teleflex system from joe and i didnt have to worry about parts and pieces. i told joe what i needed, not what i wanted, and he found the system for me. i have found out since there are several people using this same system and they love it. so joe haha steered me in the right direction again. hahaha just plugging joe guys, no harm no fowl ... i get my commission monthly. hahaha

Thanks for all of the replies and useful information! I ended up getting the Safe-T cable which came with an adapter to easily bolt up to my original helm. I found a support tube from a local boat shop that has outside threads compatible with the new cable. The support tube adapted perfectly to the original clamp block. Unfortunately I had to move the clamp block towards the engine about 3" to get the proper range of motion, so I had to drill an extra hole in the transom. The original quick disconnect had to go because the new cable isn't threaded on the end, so I bolted it directly to the engine using a 1" spacer.

I am pleased with how well it turned out while using as many original parts as I could.

Good for you Bedo, glad you got it all worked out. Looks like you have a sweet looking boat there, share some more pics with us when you get a chance.

Thank you! Here she is

1966 Span America that my grandfather purchased new. When it was on the water it was always winched up and stored in a closed boat house. It sat in the boat house without getting used for 15 years. In the early 90's it was moved from the boat house to a nice dry pole shed where it sat until last summer when I pulled it out and brought her back to life.

It took nothing more than a good scrubbing of the interior and a light buffing of the gel coat to get it to where it is today.

Hi,
It is certainly pleasing to see that you have a new cable and your steering is again functional, however, with the added spacer and the articulation at the outboard eliminated, I am very concerned:
1): If you should strike an underwater obstacle (and the outboard tilts especially high), the lack of articulation may break the bottom cowl where the bolt attaches when the angle applied becomes too great.
2): The addition of the spacer greatly increases the "lever" the steering has on the bottom cowl, and breakage may eventually occur.

In the first picture of a factory Evinrude/Johnson steering attaching assembly, please note that a clevis is incorporated.
In the second and third pictures, please note that Mercury incorporates a winged spacer with one of their long pivot pins (and the upper portion of the pin is a larger diameter than the lower portion for added strength) to greatly increase side to side support, as you have created with the spacer.
The addition of a clevis effectively lengthens the cable, and possibly the added transom hole would not have been required.
Although more costly, the fourth picture shows an attaching kit designed for the large Johnson and Evinrude outboards which mimics a through-the-tilt-tube steering connection, which mounts via the outboard's upper mounting bolts. As nearly 50 year old sealant used to seal the outboard's mounting bolts can fail (allowing water intrusion into the boat transom's wood core), it is not a bad idea to remove and reseal the bolts anyhow.
Although the same steering cable is utilized for both a Safe-T and a Big-T, so there is no issue there, you do however have a Big-T system. This knowledge might be helpful one day, as little else is shared between the two.

Regards,
Joe
www.fergusonpoolemarine.com
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