TOPIC: How to know if a hull is safe?

I have a 1961 Crestliner Mustang 14 that I've been wanting to restore. It is something that I'm anxious to start but I feel like before much money is spent on it and before much time is put in to it, it needs to begin in the right place. The hull. The hull seems very solid and so does the transom because I've stood on the motor above the prop and jerked it back and forth...the whole boat moves together. The motor is a clamp on motor so at least no holes were ever drilled through the transom. But how can I KNOW its a safe boat ready to be used in the water? Its fiberglass but has wood inside that could be rotted. This boat was last used in 1989 and it has been setting every since in a barn with a cover on it. Is this a reason to be less concerned about the hull or a reason to be more concerned?

You can drill core samples w/ a 1/4" drill bit, FROM THE INSIDE only, up under the splashwell. Dry light colored shavings are good, dark/damp shavings are not.

Use masking tape to make a depth gauge @ 1-1.25" up drill.
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Drill in a few locations.

If you get nothing but dry shavings, fill the 1/4" holes w/ 3M 4200/5200 or poly/epoxy filler. If you use epoxy, you'll need to remove it if you intend to gelcoat in the future.

If your boat was stored properly covered, bow high w/ the drain plug removed, it could be in really sound operating condition. But that is rare for a 53yr old boat.

No outward signs of problems on the deck (floor) and inside any boxes set into the deck (ski locker, etc), under any seat boxes (storage compartments & etc) or any other means to seeing up under the deck & up into the bilge..... Perhaps you'll get lucky, hope for the best, plan for the worst...

WJ---I am in the same boat...... literally.

Mustang 14 sitting in the yard...redoing the holsclaw trailer this week.....

Let us know what you find....I'll be drilling mine too....thanks for the tip.

On mine I see the previous owner drilled and bolted the lower motor mounts thru hull.

And I see a few slight cracks in the gel at the corners where the transom meets the hull.

Can I screw and glass in a few metal corner brackets from the inside as a one summer fix...until winter resto?

THX

I wouldn't depend on a metal bracket if the transom's soft.

What was it that Nader said about the Corvair? Oh, yeah: Unsafe at any speed......... Good tip for old boats w/ unknown condition transoms.

This was purchased & thoroughly inspected as a water ready boat purchase:

The 'knock' test & transom flex via the outboard are not entirely reliable...... And made for a fairly unpleasant 1st day 'out' in the new boat, plus the bonus uncomfortable ride home w/ an angry admiral....

unevensteven wrote:

WJ---I am in the same boat...... literally.

Mustang 14 sitting in the yard...redoing the holsclaw trailer this week.....

Let us know what you find....I'll be drilling mine too....thanks for the tip.

On mine I see the previous owner drilled and bolted the lower motor mounts thru hull.

And I see a few slight cracks in the gel at the corners where the transom meets the hull.

Can I screw and glass in a few metal corner brackets from the inside as a one summer fix...until winter resto?

THX

you can remove the bolts from the predrilled holes to see if its dry wood in there, or drill the test holes on the inside like suggested

Steven, brackets would probably get you through. I have done it!, I used 45° brackets from transom to floor. Just know it's "risky" to say the least . If there's any kind of outward bend in the transom when it's supposed to be straight I wouldn't!!

There are NO 2 53yr old transoms in exactly the same condition, nor are the conditions the boat will be used in the same, and they will all have varying levels of throttle input.

Unsafe, but successful (and false security) results are not remotely 'good enough' for me or my friends & family I invite aboard. The view from your house may be different.

Boat & boat resto safely

jbcurt00,

EXACTLY SO. = "Going for a swim" >40 miles out in the Gulf isn't my daydream.

yours, satx

When you have precious cargo aboard make sure of safety. Mine was solid and dry but at the top under the trim I could see de-laminating plywood at the top. Not rotted but after 54 years it was really dried out. I slid a hacksaw blade down and it was no more than about 2 1/2 inches and no rotted wood came out but a gray powdery dust I assume was the old glue.I worked water-proof wood glue down inside and clamped it. All seams well. I encased the top with a few layers of resin before I put the trim back. Also I put waterproof silicone cock under the aluminum trim.

For drilling a core sample, is it ok to drill the hole any old place in the hull? Or are there areas to stay away from? And it's okay to just drill right through the hull and then patch up with epoxy or whatever?

SN0055, You will not have to drill very far into the transom. Please do not drill through. the base of the transom near the floor, and around the bottom of the motor clamps about mid way. as stated if light colored good dark not good.

Sorry, I meant drilling into the deck, not the transom. Need to check for rot in the flooring.

The core drilling near the transom on the floor seams OK..the holes thru the transom ..around them seems soft so "I am going IN"...I am only doing this once every sixty years...

Any suggestions on a reasonable choice of wood to start with??

I was thinking of glassing in a few metal corner brackets to tie in the sides with the transom hidden of course......is that a good idea or don't bother?
Thanks guys.

unevensteven; SoupNazi0055,

WELCOME ABOARD.

yours, satx