TOPIC: Laser level to measure stringers and such?

Its great if you have enough of the old parts to make new off of as patterns. But more often than not its all mush.

So what I was thinking was to bring up to date the measuring technique, over, plumb bob, stick and sticker or trial and error old school methods. Not getting so nuts as to solid model the boat, measuring with a laser coordinates system. To spendy. But even counter top mfg's are using those.

But contractors have been using laser levels for years and the prices for new and used are downright cheap now. So here's what I am thinking.

Use a rotating laser level suspended off whatever scaffolding you set up to establish a datum line. Then you can measure out and plot the curves of the stringers, bulkheads, whatever. Also hang it low or set it on the boat to , for instance, mark the stringer tops level to cut for the floor.

Any one done this? I'm I nuts? (watch it...
mark

sounds like it should work....be sure and square the laser with the boat (not the garage floor or the center of the earth)....however I'm guessing you would spend more time resquaring the laser while you work on the stringers than it would be worth...john

The laser is the newest tool to replace the string line. String or wire lines sag no matter how tight you try to make it. Light does not sag. Just protect your eyes.

You can set a base line above or below the hull and to either side of the hull. Once you have those base lines set up, the whiskey stick(spirit level) is all you need to cross reference to.

Ian

That's how quite q few of the woody boat guys are painting their water lines.

Bob

Ole Red uses a laser to true and fair the hull on some of his projects, Gary's Scimitar thread has pics and I think even video of how he goes about it.

I can't see why it would not improve the process. I know when I cut my wood for my MFG floor I measured from the center line out and was much surprised how different one side was from the opposite. I just could not transfer one measurement from the opposite side.

Aint that the truth about symmetry! I have a K&C 16' I/O runabout and was making a pattern of the bottom at the transom for some bunk positions. Wow! the strakes were not in the same place. It was as though the guy measuring the plug to make the mould had transferred the inside measurement for an outside measurement.

A straight center line (base line) is always a good place to start with. You can then make adjustments based on the knowing that you have to fudge somewhere. Better than being confused.

With two center lines, you can then determine what is level, and adjust for possible twist.

Interestingly, its harder to make a straight line than make a curved line. Your eye will detect a line that is supposed to be straight but will accept a curved line. Same too for parallel lines.

Ian