TOPIC: Need an opinion

Ok folks, I need an opinion before I finish the 80 hp transplant. The new motor has the amp meter, ignition light and overtemp light. Plus I want to move the switches from the aluminum bracket they were in, to the new throttle board. The plan was to keep the current dash clean with no holes but now that I've removed the Golden Jubilee "Fat Fifty" I probably don't need to keep the emblem there so I can put the amp meter in it's place, it fits perfect in the hole. I'm assuming it was designed that way to be somewhat generic. Any way here's the dash as it sits now.

So now do I add the ignition light and over temp light to the side....

Or do I move it to the throttle board like this....

The thumb nuts are to signify where the switches will be. I thought about putting the amp meter over here too but it would be blocked somewhat from throttle handle.

Do I put the amp meter in the dash? or move it to the throttle board also?
If I do would it look funny to have the Golden Jubileee emblem in the dash without having the Golden Jubilee motor on her?
Do I put the ignition/overtemp lights next to the ignition group?
Or do I put the ignition/overtemp lights in the throttle board and keep dash clean?

Yes I'm keeping the emblem no matter what since I'm not getting rid of the Fatty, it's a spare so I can put the emblem back in if I switch back

Bob

I'm probably not much help on this. Back when I installed stereos in custom installs I used to cringe when the customer would tell me where they wanted their equipment. Keep in mind that once you cut into that clean dash you are not going back.

They really need to go on the dash though and since I need the dash plate and emblem for my build go ahead and change everything.

Ron

bob, you have a nice looking clean dash, I would put them by the controls. just my 2 cents. frog

I have the same throttle as you have there and I moved the switches to the mount like you are thinking of doing. It only took me a couple of times on the lake to see that it was a bad move. I kept hitting the switches with my hand and it was just plane difficult to operate. I but them back on the dash. Skip.

On my Larson All American I mounted a piece of Mahogany to the underside of the dash from the back and mounted the switch in that with no holes in the original dash face.

FWIW I like the idea of adding a panel under the dash to house the new equipment on your boat Bob. Your dash looks pristine just the way it is, I wouldn't disturb it with any changes. Try to keep the new panel as far starboard as possible, that way you won't be bumping your legs against it. Just my two cents......

Bob, I agree with Mark and MR 50's Flash aka Frozen Northman J. I have mounted under the dash as well on the g3 rather then cut another hole in the dash.

I would try to keep from cutting holes. They can be repaired in fiberglass. I repaired several in mine including ugly radio holes. But in wood I would not.

Bob, I concur with under dash add on...

I would not put the overtemp light on the panel with the control. You may never see it if it lights up. If it is tucked away in a corner, the same thing could happen. Remember what the purpose of the light is; to alert you if the motor overheats. Ignoring the warning could cook the motor. It needs to be in a place where it is visible. Personally, I'd rather have a hole in a wood dash over a fried motor.

Of course there is nothing to say you couldn't hook up an audible alarm to the same circuit as well as the light. That could be mounted behind the dash.

I would not put the overtemp light on the panel with the control. You may never see it if it lights up. If it is tucked away in a corner, the same thing could happen. Remember what the purpose of the light is; to alert you if the motor overheats. Ignoring the warning could cook the motor. It needs to be in a place where it is visible. Personally, I'd rather have a hole in a wood dash over a fried motor.

Of course there is nothing to say you couldn't hook up an audible alarm to the same circuit as well as the light. That could be mounted behind the dash.

Wow thanks guys.

Skip very good point, I had wondered if they would really be in the way buy the throttle handle.

So no holes in the dash. I had actually made a small board up to put everything on and hang from below the dash directly down from the ignition panel, but after holding it up there it just looked too much like and add on no matter what shape I made it. 'm going to take that board and attach it to the left side of the throttle board where I have the ignition/overtemp light taped.

Todd good point on the ignition/overtemp lights but it does look unnatural there and too much like an add on also. I'll also connect a buzzer besides the light and have it behind the new add on panel so it will be real close to the driver, so you can't miss hearing it if it goes off.

Thanks again for all the inputs guys. I should hopefully have it ready to go back in this weekend. I'll post picks when complete.

Bob

Hi Bob,
Free advice is sometimes worth what you paid, but the start medallion was intended to dress the hole if the ammeter was not present, so I would either place the ammeter there or not install it at all. I do not like the pairing of the 1958-59 V4 style start plate with the 1960 and newer ignition/hot lights panel. I would either not use either and substitute a buzzer for the over-heat (previosly suggested), or mount them directly into the dashboard in a horizontal plane below the start plate (I would widen the spacing of the lights in keeping with the start plate's dimensions - taping coins or washers would allow you to eye spacing options). I do not know if there are any existing accessory switch hole(s), my answer would hinge on the answer. If there is a hole(s), then I would work around it/them (an oval panel of reduced size to minic the steering helm bezel, and mounted between the steering and gunwale with push-pull switches might be sweet). If there are no holes, an aluminum angle bracket mounted to the back of the dashboard such that mounted toogle switch paddles face the floor but can be seen (paddles only) below the dashboard.

Regards,
Joe
www.fergusonpoolemarine.com
This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.

Joe, thanks, I figured that's what the hole was there for, since the amp meter fit into it just like it should have been from the factory, it must have been designed for that. I thought about putting the ignition light and overtemp below the starter panel and not using the plate but I'm still not sure I really want to make any holes in the dash. I know if I want to switch back to the Fatty I can put the Golden Jubilee medallion back in and cover the hole, still really leary about doing it. I think I'm going to continue with the separate small panel attached to the side of the throttle board. I'll try and do you all proud with what I come up with. Hopefully it will be under varnish by the end of the weekend. I'll post picks.

Bob

Bob, I like your newest idea. But I'll give you my "real" opinion once I see the results.

Gee thanks Rick!

Bob

Bob -

It's time for a radical departure!

For get the amp meter, forget the "Hot" light. Get yourself a new ignition switch that has a "push to choke" feature. You'll never regret it. While turning the key to crank the engine, just push in on the key and presto - choke is on as long as you push in on the key. Put the key over on the right side of the dash where it belongs. By putting the ignition over there - it's away from the curious hands of children. That's a BIG deal. You can use the "ON" light bezel with the new key, or just mount the key by itself. Keep in mind - that all these little lights and things were OMC's attempt to "idiot proof" their motor installations.

Remove the old dash plate and mount a nice pair of vintage gauges - a speedometer and a tach! Those will be useful! You can surface mount the gauges, or cut holes for flush mount types. Use the edge of the holes for the old switches as a guide for the edge of the larger holes for the new (vintage) gauges. I did this EXACT same thing on my '59 skagit a decade ago and it came out great. It had that same plate smack dab in the middle of the dash - a horrible place to put it, in my not so humble opinion.

Below is a pic gives an idea of what it might look like

Bob, sorry for chiming in so late but the old saying about opinions...they're like---holes, everyone's got one.

Some good ideas came across, here is what I did on my current unfinished project. Kinda a compromise between what was already stated. What Skip said I can back up, something that close to your control lever will not only be hard to manipulate but might turn into a knuckle buster. I mounted the "modules" on a separate mahogany board and put the "buttons" in the dash but everything is as close to the starboard edge as possible. This way it's possible to hold the choke switch and turn the key without crunching your right elbow or pushing yourself off the seat. The "board" is held in place by decorative screws and the whole ignition setup can be pulled forward without laying on my back to get under the dash. Sorry for the lousey pictures, the camera is going ka-poot.
Cal

Nice dash Cal. Skip.

Ditto Cal, nice dash.

Thanks Bruce and Cal. Yeah probably not the best place for that dash plate but I'm trying to keep it like grandpa had it. I know it's probably not the optimal setup but the sentimentality of it has taken over my judgment. The add-on side panel has been attached to the throttle panel and everything has been stained waiting for varnish. I've been building up the new wiring to incorporate a fuse block for the lights, spotlight and horn. I'm hoping to install it this weekend. Pics to follow soon.

Thanks again for all the inputs guys, many great things for me to think about on this.

Bob

Well it's done, FINALLY!!!!!!!!!! Thanks again for all the inputs, it really helped in the final decision. I hope you all like it. It works out real well, easy to get to and easy to see from the drivers position.

I still have to put the red push button knob back on the horn switch but I wanted to bring some of the original red color back. finished that this afternoon but didn't take a pic.

Now to just get her back on the water for a tweaking run and put her to bed for the winter. Wanted to do tat yesterday but ended up having to drive to Baltimore, back home then back up to Annapolis for the Navy/Loyola soccer game. Ah the things we do for our wives and kids! Oh well, only 58 today so a little too cold to try, will try later in the week or next weekend, hopefully.

Bob

Looks great Bob, nice job. 56 sounds toasty right about now. I winterized the Sabre, we've had a few nights in the 20's here in the Green Bay area but the boat landings are still open for the fishermen.

Thanks Cal. I still have to figure out how the heck I'm going to restore that paint on the plate of the throttle box. It was stenciled on I think but I won't be able to do that I don't think.

Bob

looks real good bob, keep looking and maybe you will be able to find a nicer box by next spring. frog

Waterwings wrote:

Thanks Cal. I still have to figure out how the heck I'm going to restore that paint on the plate of the throttle box. It was stenciled on I think but I won't be able to do that I don't think.

Bob

Here you go,Bob.

Great looking job there Bob. At least you have more room to do that than I had on my boat when I tried to mount my switches that way. Skip.

Hi Bob,
Do a search on silkscreening aluminum. (your plate looks aluminum)
Then go talk to a graphic artist at a print shop. They should be able to scan the original plate, then on the computer fix all the scratched, change to colors from faded to original.
I don't know the process or price, but may be worth looking into ?

Looks great. I like the idea of the mount ahead of the controls. You know that will work with fiberglass too.

Frog, thanks, keeping an eye out.

Jim, thanks, saw that one. A little better than my current one but I really don't need a whole new control. Already have one that need restoration but it's functional.

Thanks Skip, yah it was nice to have that extra room forward. That's actually where the original switches were mounted, on a piece of aluminum that I think granpa put in

Chuck, yeah it is aluminum. I was wondering that same thing, they can do it on shirts, why not aluminum plate?

Thanks Robert, yeah but I have to stay with the Mahogany/hardwood that makes up the whole topside.

Bob