TOPIC: ID new "old" boats

I came across this boat and picking up another one today, (they came together)and was wondering if anyone knows what type of boat it may be. I have not talked to Tx parks yet to see if they have any information on it which will be another battle because there is only a bill of sale.

I really only need the windshield off of one of them but they have a certain appeal about them. My son has already cleaned out this one and is waiting for the other one to start restoration.

It has an Arrowhead marking on the side but I cannot find anything about it.

Not sure if the pics are coming through

[img]http://www.fiberglassics.com/media/kunena/attachments/legacy/images/IMG00203.jpg [img]http://www.fiberglassics.com/media/kunena/attachments/legacy/images/IMG00201.jpg

Certainly an interesting boat, a unique style. Am I getting this right, you will be picking up another one of the same model?

Hopefully someone here will come up with more information. I think this one deserves a page in the Classic Boat Library.

By the way, the Evinrude is a 1958 model (or at least has a 1958 cowel). See www.old-omc.de or the Classic Boat Library page: www.fiberglassics.com/library/Evinrude

Here are pics of the other boat. They are both very interesting but I cannot find anything about them. The new one has Traveler on the steering wheel. I am not sure what the brace on the bow is for, it looks original. I did some search on the 40hp Gale and now know it is similar to the rude and johnson.

HandyAndy wrote:

Certainly an interesting boat, a unique style. Am I getting this right, you will be picking up another one of the same model?

Hopefully someone here will come up with more information. I think this one deserves a page in the Classic Boat Library.

By the way, the Evinrude is a 1958 model (or at least has a 1958 cowel). See www.old-omc.de or the Classic Boat Library page: www.fiberglassics.com/library/Evinrude

That helps with the motor. I am guessing the boat would have to be around the same age. The boat appears to be setup to put the steering wheel and throttle on each side. I have not had time to do much on them yet but will continue to whittle down on them.

Thanks, for the help

hi redeye,im on dialup and cant see the pics,but the one with the arrow head might be a arrow craft,my brother in law has an arrow head challenger with the arrow head stripe down the side.
and the other one might be an arkansas traveler,its worth a try,john

Arkansas Traveler became Traveler - look at the 61-62 brochures...the earlier boats were lapstrake styled.

www.fiberglassics.com/library/Arkansas_traveler

Peter
Who grew up with a '61 AT Utility

I was up all night looking through those brochures, I do believe you are right, it could be a 61.

Thanks,

ok I have an update. I went to TPWD and pulled the title information. The Arrowhead is titled as a 1959 Arrow Glass and the other is a 1966 Corvair. Now begins the wonderful experience of getting a title because...........wait for it....the person who sold it to me is not on the title.

Well I am sending a certified letter to the previous owners and a letter to my nice lady at the TPWD. I am hoping to get the title issues resolved soon. I was actually hoping to be rid of these boats once I get the windshield off but I think I found a couple more projects.

Just some update pics. My son has been working on his boat. I am still working on getting the titles. Will keep posted.

Hi redeye, I'm new to this forum. However I just bought a boat that came from TX. Here is the link to TWPD for future interest and a copy of whom this boat is registered.
apps.tpwd.state.tx.us/tora/legal.jsf
And here is the findings:
Vessel Description Asset Attribute Value
Tx Number: 8512AP
Asset Status: ACTIVE
Serial Number: 60320
Title Number: 8808030445
Title Status: TITLED
Make: ARROW GLASS
Year Built: 1959
Mdl/Prog Year: 1959
Length: 15'0"
Color:
Expire Date: 08/31/1992
Decal Number:
Owner Information Primary Owner: JEFFREY W POWELL
ENJOY!
Address: 713 PARK DR

HILLSBORO, TX 76645

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My son has been working hard on the boat, sanding.....he hates sanding, I told him to get used to it. He has been doing a wonderful job of taking the hardware off and labeling it then placing in a box.

We are debating on wether to change out the transom, it is curved and there is no way we can reproduce it. The wood strips on the floor will be coming out but the seats need to be grinded out first. he wants to put a floor on the boat so it is smoother.

The fat fifty is off and we are trying to get rid of it or swap it out.

if using plywood you can cut thin cuts into the wood very tedious to do I know carpeteners who have done this on 2x material to make a radius on a porch nor reason you couldn't do it on plywood....
once you have the radius you want either fill in or glass over to strengthen back up....other option thinner plywood one that will follow contour and basically make your own laminat pieces....

The Glasspar g3 has a curved transom and folks replace the wood in the transom back to new. Visit the g3 forum and do a search under "transom". One could make a template of the radious from the out side then remove all the wood in the transom and use 1/4"-3/8" thick plywood and layer in the new transom one piece at a time. Could take six layers, You can learn the details later but my point is that it is possible.
It looks like a rare boat to restore, good choice. Your son is making good progress, keep us updated....Mike


archives.fiberglassics.com/g3/glasspar-pages/Restore_1.html

redeye1962 wrote:

We are debating on wether to change out the transom, it is curved and there is no way we can reproduce it.

You just prompted me to upload a technical page and photo-gallery of replacing the CURVED transom of my 1967 MFG.
Have a look... I highly recommend doing it this way.
If I had done the MFG first, even the "flat" transom of my Fabuglas would have been done with a Pourable Transom.

www.raylinrestoration.com/BoatStuff/MFG-Transom/index.htm

Look online into Nidabond and Seacast.

Good luck,
Ray

Well we got the boat flipped over. There are some concerns about the keel. there is no wood for the keel, it is used to drain the inside. Is this normal? There are quite a few deep gashes on the bottom, particularly on the keel. I do not think they are going all the way through but was wondering what is the best way to repair these.

I am also wondering the best way to paint the gelcoat, I was going to use rustoleum after primering. I have used it on my other boat and it seems to be doing fine.

There are quite a few deep gashes on the bottom, particularly on the keel. I do not think they are going all the way through but was wondering what is the best way to repair these.

It all depends on what type of gashes. If they are just surface gashes where the gelcoat is missing.. scuff the surface around them with 40G sandpaper, and then fill them with tiger-hair body filler (glass-fiber reinforced polyester body filler). If they actually go deep enough to the glass fibers- grind the areas out 3" around the gash- and re-glass with resin and mat. If you have cracks all the way through from a substancial impact- then you need to re-glass BOTH sides of the crack. This may even mean grinding a groove where the crack is- almost completely through the hull.

Your picture doesn't show any substantial damage- so if that's the worst of it- you're in good shape. Tiger-hair and regular fillers will do that job.

PLEASE use a 2-component epoxy or enamel paint for the bottom of this hull. It will last much longer. Stay away from alkyds.
Yes, they will work just fine on a boat that only sees the water 3-4 times a year. and they don't fade much in the sun because they are on the bottom. But.. you are doing a whole lot of work already to skimp and save $50 in materials. What is your time worth to you?

My biggest debate is the paint. I am planning on putting 3-4 coats on but the good stuff is expensive. I have used it before and it did not seem to hold up very well..........I am sure it is how I applied it.
We have started the bondo process.........did not think I could fit the glass in the gashes.

I will have more pics as we go.

Proper application and surface preparation are the keys to a long-lived repaint.

I have cars whose paint is still "live" after 17-20 years outside. Sure, I have buffed them 10 times since they were applied, but the paint isn't failing.... Some of my sub-standard work (b4 I knew what I was doing).. is failing... but not the paint.

See if a local body-shop supply has paint that was mis-mixed or the colors were off.. so they were returned. You can usually save 50-75% retail... 20% off wholesale..
Some bodyshops have gallons of "scrap" paint they have to PAY to dispose of. Not a great choice of colors... but you can usually mix stuff together and get nice colors... especially WHITE. there's hundreds of whites.. mix them all together and what do you have? White....

hi redeye,instead of using bondo ,try useing resin jelly,its made for fiberglass and marine applications,and its cheap,and sands very nicely,it is like bondo but for boats.

Thanks, I was planning on applying a layer of resin to protect the bondo. I will have to look for this resin jelly. Hopefully it is easier to sand than regular resin, that stuff is crazy hard to sand.

I was just reading all the posts in this thread and I remember reading last week a thread about a guy "pouring" a new transom due to the curve. heres the link

forums.fiberglassics.com/bg/showmessage.asp?fm=Forum&messageID=53

this isnt the one that I had read before but this stuff looked pretty cool

My God, I am still waiting to hear about the titles. Just jumping through hoops....burning hoops to get these titles is not easy. I hope to have sent the last paperwork to them today. If anyone knows of an easier way to title a boat I would appreciate it. We have the bottom primed with Rustoleum primer and will paint the bottom with gloss white Rustomleum. I will get some pics later.