TOPIC: 1959 Fabuglas, Soooooo many questions.....

Ok, so before we get started, it is important to understand that I am a novice boater. I was fortunate to come across a 1959 Fabuglas Runabout that an older fella had been using as a fishing boat. When I went to take a ride in it, there was a bit of an issue with the motor staying running(I'll get into this more in a minute). Anyhow, I managed to get it at what I would consider a steal ($300), including the trailer.

Details, problems, issues, etc:
Windshield is cracked (I have been reading the front page article about it)

Motor would start after choking, but would not continue to run without it. Finally would not start at all and had to give up. From reading other posts I am understanding that this could be due to the carburetor being out of adjustment. I am going to get some carb cleaner tomorrow and see if that helps before I try messing with the adjustments.

Top fiberglass (above the bumper) has spider cracks all over it. My first thought was that this was due to sitting out in the sun, but after watching the previous owner stand on the bow, I now understand how this happened.

Previous owner removed original back seat sometime in the 80's for additional room for fishing.

Missing top? There is one bracket on the side where a bar for some type of a top would have been connected for pivoting.

Rubber bumper is still usable, but is cracked in several places.

One windshield bracket is broken.

Other plated pieces are pitted.

So.... to my questions. As you can imagine, as a new boater, my head is already swimming.

First off, any other thoughts on the motor? I am also going to clean out the fuel tank and put some fresh gas in it.
Next question, the last owner mentioned using 10W-30 and mixing it 25:1. This doesn't seem right to me. As I don't have any original motor documentation, does anyone have any idea what the proper mix should be? Its an Evenrude 35hp Lark motor (1959 model 35516). Or point me in the right direction for this info.

I currently don't have any major plans to restore the boat (funds are pretty limited), but I would like to start reading some information on how to properly fix the issue with the bow being cracked. Has anyone encountered this problem in their restoration, or know what products or techniques to use to restore the finish?

I am also looking for any parts resources in case I run into some extra cash (for the missing plated parts, bumper, trim, brackets, etc).

I have tried searching the internet for any pictures of what this boat would have originally looked like, but I am not having any luck. This is so that I can see how the original seats looked, and see how the original back seats were situated, carpeting looked, etc.

Lastly, I am going to the BMV in the morning to have the titles transferred. The trailer is supposedly the original trailer, and the previous owner never had a title for it. Is it possible that because of the age of the boat, there was never a title issued for it to begin with. Further, how would one get a license plate for a trailer without it?

Again, sorry for the length, but I am hoping to draw on some experience here. Thanks in advance for any help you can provide.

Welcome aboard JRodDv, glad to have you join us. Looks like a nice project, I'm sure the gang will be glad to help with your questions. For the fiberglass work you might check out the Research / Restoration link in the tool bar at the top of the page, much good info to be found there.

First off, any other thoughts on the motor? I am also going to clean out the fuel tank and put some fresh gas in it.

Since you know basically it's a running motor, I recommend a compression check to make sure she's worth tinkering with. If things check out there, rebuilding the carb(s) and fuel pump and replacing all fuel line before proceeding is a great idea IMO. Deteriorating rubber clogs jets and orifices, possibly causing a lean condition that could damage the motor. The water pump impeller is also a service item that really should be replaced now, and the gear lube in the lower while you're down there. The JEGO section (for these motors) here has a wealth of information and lots of great folks willing to help you out if you need some support.

Next question, the last owner mentioned using 10W-30 and mixing it 25:1.

I believe most (if not all) folks have changed over to at least TCW-3 outboard oil, I'll let the experts advise on what ratio to run. Back in the day they used what oil was available, technology improvements in today's oil make it a much better option I'm told.

Good luck with your project, looking forward to your progress reports.

I will address the engine issues for you
-Most likely the running problem is the ignition coils the originals tend to crack and then fail. You can buy brand new aftermarket ones for as little as $20.00 each if you search around or BRP originals for $35 up each.
-Clean and adjust the points
-replace the ignition wires and the plugs
-replace the water pump impeller
-drain and fill the lower unit with Sae 80/90 hypoid gear oil
Now that the ignition and cooling systems are up to snuff it's time to mix up some fresh gas. The original mix was 24:1 using SAE30 non detergent motor oil and regular grade unleaded (referred to as marine or white gas at the time) If you can get ethanol free fuel mix at 32:1 using any TCW3 oil it doesn't need to be any premium brand Walmart's will do fine. Once you have all the above done try the boat again, you may find it will run just fine without touching the carb short of setting the mixture needles. To set the mix start by GENTLY seating both the low and high speed needles and then back the low speed off 1&1/4 turns and the high speed 1 turn make sure that the packing nut 7/16 is snug enough to provide resistance but not stop the needles from turning. Now take the boat to the lake with a friend. Once launched start the motor and allow it to run for a min or 2 at high idle once it has run a bit reduce the speed as much as you can without stalling and then slowly adjust the low speed for best idle, there is a sweet spot just a fraction before it coughs from being too lean, hard to explain but you will notice it. Once the basic idle is set head out and run up to full throttle once the lever is all the way forward begin to adjust the high speed until the best performance is achieved, there is a sweet spot here too and either way from that setting will slow the engine down.
Now if you can't find ethanol free gas (try really hard to find it) go buy a carb rebuild kit that is alcohol tolerant and rebuild the carb. Replace all fuel lines and the fuel pump diaphragm while your at it, then do the set up procedure as above!
Personally I run nothing but Shell VPower fuel as it is ethanol free (in Ontario Canada) and have no problems at all with any old carbs rebuilt or not

j rod,it looks to me that the motor is a 1959 golden jubille,its a desirable motor,you can get most parts at napa,for johnny rudes.
also I would change the impeller,you don't want to burn it up,john

Awesome info guys! Thanks for your quick responses!

I've got a few follow-up comments, questions that I have outlined below.
I will also check out the JEGO section as well. Until winter, I am hoping not to have to do too much to it, but once winter gets here I am going to pull it off the trailer and try to do some more extensive work to it (i.e. paint, parts replacement, etc.)

al lockhart wrote:

-replace the ignition wires and the plugs

I did a quick search while at the local autoparts store and found a not on another forum that mentioned Champion J6C equivalent. Could anyone confirm this? I bought two just to swap out, if this is indeed the right ones, I will pick up a couple more for spares.

-replace the water pump impeller

I'm going to have to do some research on this as I don't have any idea what this is. Anyone have experience with this?

If you can get ethanol free fuel

I don't want to sound ignorant here, but I believe that most in the states has some type of ethanol percentage, or the "possibility" of it. Should I call a nearby marina to see if they have this, or am I completely off base here?

carb rebuild kit that is alcohol tolerant and rebuild the carb

Is this just a general marine carb kit, or do I need to find one specific for this engine model? (I only know enough about engines to be REALLY dangerous)

Replace all fuel lines and the fuel pump diaphragm while your at it

I replaced two of the old lines this morning. The incoming fuel line from the connection to the fuel pump seems to be an old single wall line, and all I could find locally was a double wall fuel line. Unfortunately, the line coming in and the line going out to the carb both run through a bracket and there isn't enough room for two double walled lines in it without pinching them. I will have to call around to see if I can find a single before I replace the incoming fuel line.
Because I am motor ignorant, I assume the fuel pump diaphragm is located inside the fuel pump where the pressure line comes in. It has the only removable piece on the fuel pump, and it has a seal in it. If I replace the diaphragm, should I also replace the seal, or will I be OK to just close it back up?

MarkS wrote:

For the fiberglass work you might check out the Research / Restoration link in the tool bar at the top of the page, much good info to be found there

I have been reading about fiberglass repair. Where I am confused is: Because of the extensive "spidering", am I better to just sand the whole top down to what I am assuming is fiberglass and then repaint it, or is there some type of sealer that I can use to have a new base to paint over? I am a complete noob on this one.
And I haven't seen any specific information regarding what I am seeing on my boat, which is why I am so confused.

Oh, okay that's called "crazing" when it gets the little spider web cracks. I used the search forum box above and came up with some threads that address the remedies some of the gang have used here, here's a link;
www.fiberglassics.com/glassic-forums/search?q=crazing

I answered in between your questions


al lockhart wrote:

-replace the ignition wires and the plugs

I did a quick search while at the local autoparts store and found a not on another forum that mentioned Champion J6C equivalent. Could anyone confirm this? I bought two just to swap out, if this is indeed the right ones, I will pick up a couple more for spares.

J6C is correct

-replace the water pump impeller

I'm going to have to do some research on this as I don't have any idea what this is. Anyone have experience with this?

Time to buy a manual, Seloc has once that gives enough detail for your purposes, your motor appears to be a 1959 Lark model# 35516 which makes 35hp

If you can get ethanol free fuel

I don't want to sound ignorant here, but I believe that most in the states has some type of ethanol percentage, or the "possibility" of it. Should I call a nearby marina to see if they have this, or am I completely off base here?

I checked on line for ethanol free gas in Indiana and came up with this link for you:
pure-gas.org/index.jsp?stateprov=IN

carb rebuild kit that is alcohol tolerant and rebuild the carb

Is this just a general marine carb kit, or do I need to find one specific for this engine model? (I only know enough about engines to be REALLY dangerous)

Get the kit for your model# posted above

Replace all fuel lines and the fuel pump diaphragm while your at it

I replaced two of the old lines this morning. The incoming fuel line from the connection to the fuel pump seems to be an old single wall line, and all I could find locally was a double wall fuel line. Unfortunately, the line coming in and the line going out to the carb both run through a bracket and there isn't enough room for two double walled lines in it without pinching them. I will have to call around to see if I can find a single before I replace the incoming fuel line.

See your local outboard shop for the correct fuel line

Because I am motor ignorant, I assume the fuel pump diaphragm is located inside the fuel pump where the pressure line comes in. It has the only removable piece on the fuel pump, and it has a seal in it. If I replace the diaphragm, should I also replace the seal, or will I be OK to just close it back up?

Seal and diaphragm come together in a rebuild kit

Al

I answered in between your questions


al lockhart wrote:

-replace the ignition wires and the plugs

I did a quick search while at the local autoparts store and found a not on another forum that mentioned Champion J6C equivalent. Could anyone confirm this? I bought two just to swap out, if this is indeed the right ones, I will pick up a couple more for spares.

J6C is correct

-replace the water pump impeller

I'm going to have to do some research on this as I don't have any idea what this is. Anyone have experience with this?

Time to buy a manual, Seloc has once that gives enough detail for your purposes, your motor appears to be a 1959 Lark model# 35516 which makes 35hp

If you can get ethanol free fuel

I don't want to sound ignorant here, but I believe that most in the states has some type of ethanol percentage, or the "possibility" of it. Should I call a nearby marina to see if they have this, or am I completely off base here?

I checked on line for ethanol free gas in Indiana and came up with this link for you:
pure-gas.org/index.jsp?stateprov=IN

carb rebuild kit that is alcohol tolerant and rebuild the carb

Is this just a general marine carb kit, or do I need to find one specific for this engine model? (I only know enough about engines to be REALLY dangerous)

Get the kit for your model# posted above

Replace all fuel lines and the fuel pump diaphragm while your at it

I replaced two of the old lines this morning. The incoming fuel line from the connection to the fuel pump seems to be an old single wall line, and all I could find locally was a double wall fuel line. Unfortunately, the line coming in and the line going out to the carb both run through a bracket and there isn't enough room for two double walled lines in it without pinching them. I will have to call around to see if I can find a single before I replace the incoming fuel line.

See your local outboard shop for the correct fuel line

Because I am motor ignorant, I assume the fuel pump diaphragm is located inside the fuel pump where the pressure line comes in. It has the only removable piece on the fuel pump, and it has a seal in it. If I replace the diaphragm, should I also replace the seal, or will I be OK to just close it back up?

Seal and diaphragm come together in a rebuild kit

Al

Awesome info guys!