TOPIC: Transom replacement - is it even worth it?

Greetings all,
I am a first time boat owner, and unfortunately I bought my boat without really knowing wha to look for. The boat is a 1962 Mfg Westfield. Just found out th transom is rotted, and in doing research it seems like a hell of a job to replace. I've looked a the pour-in solutions like Seacast but they seem crazy expensive (if I did my calculations right, I would need 3 buckets of Seacast at $220ish a pop). I paid $600 for the boat and $100 for a trade for a motor in better condition. I do not have a garage so if I get involved with fixing it, it will be outside 24/7. What are your thoughts? Is there an easier method i'm missing? should i cut my losses and try to unload it? I like projects but this seems like a BIG project, and I have never worked with fiberglass before. Opinions and advice are appreciated.

Hi Freak !

If you can post a few pictures of the transom from the outside and inside. It can probably be replaced with a some cutting and glass work and come out better and much less expensive than Seacast.

I will try and post some tomorrow. The previous owner had reinforced it with two aluminum plates but when I was swapping motors, I took the outside plate off and around the motor mount holes lts pretty rotten. Looked like potting soil.

The new motor never got put on, she's laying next to the boat until this gets sorted.

Replacing a really rotted transom is easier than one only partially rotted.
I was in your exact position 10 years ago. I used Seacast. I used two 5 gal. and one 1 gal. I had a pretty big transom. Yes pics needed.
Had I found this site before I did the transom, I may have used wood instead.
My boat has been outside 24/7, although I pull the engines in the fall and store inside.
WELCOME to the website!

It's not really that big a deal, you may be able to replace the transom without popping the deck, which would save a lot of work!

Get yourself some MDO or your favorite void-free plywood, (it's all got waterproof glue) and some mat and resin, and sit down in front of the computer and go through some of our transom replacement threads.

If you want the transom to last 50 years, get good poly resin, if you want it to last 100 years, get epoxy.

Welcome!

Fairly simple work.

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You cut off the outside skin of fibreglass.

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Dig out the rotten wood.

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Glue in new pieces of wood.

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Glue the fibreglass skin back on and fill in where it was cut.

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Paint to suit your taste.

Thanks for all the input. If I do it from the outside I guess it wouldn't be so bad. I could probably leave the interior intact. I think I was finding contradicting information last night while researching. I will include pics later.

Its only worth it if you do it yourself. I did a 20' Lema transom with Seacast, won't take that path again. You have to shore the crap out of the transom before you pour in the Seacast, the stuff expands when it cures. Admittedly a strong product, but a PIA to use.
Larry

Just remember to take one step at a time, It seems big it it is not. If you like working with your hands and the feeling of a job well done it will be a good project. Welcome aboard. I love Stroudsburgh. I took my kids on the railroad when we were there last. I'm from Kittanning out west of you.

a747freak,

1st: WELCOME ABOARD.

ImVho, the REAL DEAL is NOT Seacast as the stuff is EXPENSIVE & NEEDLESS too.

Instead, pop the deck off and strip EVERYTHING (that will rot) out of the boat, one piece at a time & replace it. -Personally, I'm a fan of MDO plywood (coated with cheap "no name" epoxy) for just about everything.
(My next glass boat renovation will have MDO structural members throughout, as the stuff is tough, stronger than dimensional lumber & lasts just about forever, when buttered with epoxy.)

ImVho, a rotted-out transom is easier to remove than a HALF-rotted one. (Also, I wouldn't cut the outside skin to replace the transom, as once the deck is off it's easier to do from the inside.)

Best Wishes on your project!

yours, satx

Here's the link to my flickr set:

www.flickr.com/photos/63125815@N06/sets/72157635466780103/

It appears the transom is curved, and I can't tell if its supposed to be or if thats due to warping. I imagine curved transoms would be more difficult to replace..? Thoughts?

a747freak,

IF it's a curved, rather than a warped, transom, I'd use 1/4" or 5MM plywood (buttered with epoxy "peanut butter") & layered until you reach the original thickness of wood in the transom.
(5MM "Philippine mahogany" plywood, sheathed in epoxy, can be "tortured into" almost into a pretzel.)

yours, satx

The transom is curved or bowed.If you are going to show it you will have to take the top off.If you do not really care what the end result looks like then get the cut off tool warmed up. When you patch up the cut marks it will be close to impossible to match up the new paint with the existing gelcoat.

Curved Transoms are a bit more problematic to replace but if you do your homework, they can be done pretty easily. It is important to maintain the original curvature of the hull and to do that, I'd recommend building a bracing wall approximately 3ft in front of the stern in the interior of the hull. You can do this by screwing a 2x4 across the beam of the hull and the dropping braces down from it to the hull. Another 2x4 @ 5ft will allow you to attach an angled bottom brace to the wall. This feeble attempt at a drawing will hopefully illustrate what I'm gettin at...



From this bracing you can then use 1x4's etc... to brace the wood to create the curved transom. I recommend using 4 layers of 3/8" ext grade plywood that have been coated with your choice of resin. If using poly I'd also recommend a layer of 1.5 oz CSM on each side of the wood. I'd then use Thickened Resin to glue the first layer to the outer skin of the stern and then use the bracing to push it tight to the skin while it cures. I'd repeat the process for the remaining 3 layers. Using this technique will give you a transom That's a little ove 1 1/2" thick and strong as a tank and will conform to the original curvature.

That's how I've seen it done and would recommend you do it.

As Always, It's your Boat and your Choice!!!!

I agree. That's exactly how we did a curved transom last year. I thought I had invented that bracing wall idea...should have known better. We made a template of the outside curvature and by using small wedges here and there, we were able to "tweak" things to get the curve to exactly match the template.

As to whether or not your boat is worth the effort, I'd say it is if you intend to keep it, is not if you intend to sell it. Of course, the idea is to enjoy the hobby. It's the journey, not the destination.

That is how I nave done the g-3's, lido's, and one Avalon. Layering the plywood and using mat inbetween the layers.
Al