TOPIC: Parts falling off my boat.

A few weeks ago when I changed the oil I had this cool behive shaped prop nut:

This week its gone:

I'm curious should the shear pin be clear of the prop (so it could come out). Mine is blocked by the prop body and I wonder if I need to soft mallet it back on before I put on a new prop nut.

And yes I assume the cotter pin fell out weeks ago... and then the prop nut worked its way off... and my guess is the only reason why my prop isn't at the bottom of the bay (with the cool beehive nut) is we only go 5 mph around here.

Not sure how it fell off. The cotter pin on the nut was bent, so it shouldn't have fallen off, unless it didn't go through the holes in the shaft. As far as the shear pin, I can't tell from that view, but that may be what you need to do. What type of motor are we looking at?

BTW, I like your set up for pumping in the lower unit oil. What is it?

The cotter pin needs to be a proper stainless one.

---

I see many folks that use carbon steel and they will rot away quickly.

>I see many folks that use carbon steel and they will rot away quickly.
This one was old... my guess is it broke at the single bend. I should know better.

>What type of motor are we looking at?
Its a 1960 Flying Scott 60

>I like your set up for pumping in the lower unit oil. What is it?
MERCURY MARINE Quicksilver Gear Lube Pump #802891Q2 $12.99 at West Marine

The good news is I found an Ebay seller with the same vintage nut and its on its way. He said its a 50's Evinrude... I will be sure to use a stainless cotter pin this time.

How many times you think it might have been taken off. I had one on an outboard I bought look like it was a veteran of many take-offs and broke into chunks when I took it off.

One should never re-use a cotter pin!

Yep new cotter pin every time if you have them. Also Walmart has those pumps for about $7 if I remember right.

Bob

At least know I know what the extra cotter pins are for... hiding in plain sight.

Also one thing I have learned is that West Marine = 2x the price.

shacomm,

I have only seen the brass beehive prop nuts used on the larger Scotts, but I suppose they might fit something else. There are two sizes. One for the 60 and 75 HP, and one for the 40 HP with a smaller prop shaft, as I remember it.
Hope you got the right one. If not, herters59 or some other member might have an extra one to sell.

Ah cool thanks for the heads-up. I have a '59 60HP parts motor but the nut looks totally different. I'm wondering, would the nut have been sold with the motor or with the prop? The guy I got this from said it was from a late 50's Evinrude. Humm...

I'm not sure if you realize this or not - The hub on your propeller has failed. The center spindle has a layer of rubber bonded to it and is then pressed into the propeller under extreme pressure. The rubber acts to dampen the vibrations of the gears and clutch - helping the shear pin to last longer. When the bond between the hub and the propeller fails, it begins to spin inside the propeller casting and it melts the rubber. The forward movement of the boat through the water "pulls" the propeller backwards toward the prop nut. Eventually, the propeller shoulder hits the shear pin and digs into it. The only way to get the prop of is to bash out the pin with a drift. The snout of the hub originally stuck out the back of the propeller enough where the shear pin had 1/4" clearance. You should also use a thin bronze thrust washer that is slipped over the snout, then the shear pin inserted. The thrust washer will prevent the propeller from hitting the pin - in the event of another hub failure. Bottom line - you need a new propeller, a thrust washer, and a new shear pin. If you can have a couple spares on hand - that will prove to be very handy. These parts can be found on Ebay.

>I'm not sure if you realize this or not - The hub on your propeller has failed.

Bruce:
Thanks! I had a feeling this was the case... In my mind the only way for the prop to be "over" the shear pin is for its attachment to the hub to have failed. It make sense if this is rubber that it is trashed.

I have a 1959 60hp McCulloch donor motor with a prop on it, should I use that one or go for a new prop? If I do go for a new one what's the advice on shopping for a prop?

Donor:

I've been told that propellers for Homelite 55 4 cycle engines will fit. You should check into this, because there are quite a few Homelite props floating around. I don't believe propellers for your motor are produced any longer. You will need to do some digging. Be very wary of used propellers. Even though the blades of a prop can look nice, the hub matters the most. A hub that does not protrude enough from the center of the prop should be considered a dud. Also look at the hub from the rear side of the propeller - be sure the hub is centered on the propeller and that it's installed height is correct. Ebay is likely to be your best source. It will also be important to match the engine /boat with the correct pitch propeller. You must become familiar with the McCulloch part numbers for the props. Michigan Wheel made many props for these engines, but you must decode their strange numbering system to know what the specifications of the prop are. Part numbers tell what the diameter & pitch is, material of the prop, how many blades, etc.

Thanks for the tip on the homelite. My prop is a MICHIGAN SMC 626 so I guess I have a new hunt!

Ok... that was a short hunt. This was on eBay for $130 including shipping.

This sale is for a bronze MICHIGAN prop, 11 & 1/2 " x 11 ", SMC626, shaft is aproximately 13/16" diameter. New: A brand-new, unused.

Scott Atwater? Those beehive nuts are hard to come by!

Yes... its on a 1960 Scott McCulloch with a Michigan Wheel prop. I'm still waiting on the nut. Going to give the seller a call. But the Prop arrived today. Wow! If there was any doubt this is the correct prop take a look at the box label. And Bruce it appears you are correct this prop is for the Eligin-Scott-Wizard 60-75.2 hp and the Homelite 55.

The boat has been out of the water for 3 weeks in August, but here's the new prop and nut and she's going for a swim today.

I did learn a little about props. Thanks Handy Andy! http://www.fiberglassics.com/fiberglassics-forums/home/homelite-bearcat-4-cycle-outboards/michigan-props#21572

Also I found and bought 2 beehive nuts, one actually arrived. The shaft diameter and thread were perfect, but the ID to clear the prop nose was too small. I took the slow but steady approach and clearenced the nut by hand. The final product works perfectly.

So in the end new prop $130 prop nut $45 lesson learned to replace $1 cotter Pin... as they say... priceless.