TOPIC: New Floor

I've read a couple of threads on the forum about floors.

I have a 1968 MFG and it needs a floor. Is it as simple as rutting out the old plywood/glass and laying new plywood? And maybe replacing any other rotted wood in there.

I'm not too concerned about keeping it original. Should i be? Is a 68 MFG Chevron a boat that is desireable as original if i ever want to sell it?

Any thoughts on putting storage under the floor between the seats? There is a pull-up hatch in the open bow. I'd like to have more storage in the floor like that.

How about floor covering? It currently has a rubber or vinyl floor covering. I thought of using something like Rhino Linings like in a truck bed. Maybe i could get it in white to be cooler on the feet. Just checked their site and they show a boat with the hull coated for protection from bumps and scrapes!

I'm not happy with the finish of the rear area in front of the transom. Thought of doing some kind of hatch or door in front of the open area to hide the batteries and wires. Need to keep it accessable for the bildge. Any ideas?

Please share your pics!

Gee whiz D, that's a boat load of questions!

I'm not that familiar with the MFG line, but in a lot of these boats the floor (or "sole") is an important part of the structure. Not only does it give you a flat surface to walk on, but provides strength and rigidity to the hull.

Don't know that I'd call any of the process simple, but yes the first step is to get ALL the rotten wood out. If the floor is rotten, I'd also carefully check the stringers and transom while you're in there. There are several good threads here to help show how to go about replacing these, just have to study up and ask questions as the project goes along.

Personally, I would recommend keeping it as close to original as possible. Adding storage compartments under the floor would be something left to the more experienced builders, IMHO. Under seats, side (gunnel) compartments, etc. are options that could help with that.

Somebody just asked about floor covering the other day, I posted a link for Nautolex. We kind of shy away from truck bed liners around here, but it's your boat - do it whatever way makes you happy!

One last thought is many of the Glassics used a "curtain" across the bilge area to hide the mechanicals back there. You can create your own out of the material of your choice, or have an upholstery shop match the material used in your seats or interior?

Just make sure the hull and deck are braced and blocked like crazy to insure that they hold their exact shape as you cut away structure. Usually, nothing weird happens, but put a sag or a twist in an old hull and you can spend the two winters getting it out of there. Better to error on the over-bracing to start than do that.

Does one restore or upgrade any old boat? Do you like Redheads, Blonds, or Brown hair?

To me, boats require a lot of work and when I am done it is far more important that I like it than what the resale value might be.

Ditto on that. If you want to recover cost, it would be hard. Unlike cars, not that many people POP on old boats. Sure they like to look at them, but buyers are few.

Mark,

Of course i have a lot of questions! I'm a new boarder and that's how I learn.

What about putting the gas tank under the deck? That would free up the storage area under the port seat.

What are the reasons to stay away from the bed-liner type coatings? Is it looks or is there a technical reason?

This is all in the planning stages. Won't open it up until winter.

Thanks!

Dan

seabuddy,

Thanks for the good info. So i shouldn't just keep it on the trailer? Block the bottom and the sides?

seabuddy wrote:

Does one restore or upgrade any old boat? Do you like Redheads, Blonds, or Brown hair?

I'll have one of each, please...

robert-lorigan wrote:

Ditto on that. If you want to recover cost, it would be hard. Unlike cars, not that many people POP on old boats. Sure they like to look at them, but buyers are few.

I was more worried about ruining a classic than recovering cost. I'm not going to show it in competition or anything so it's up to me i guess.

Just didn't want to do the equivalent of putting monster truck tires on 64 1/2 Mustang!

When it comes to what floor covering you choose it is completely up to you. I was going to paint a troublesome old beat up aluminum boat with it on the outside but just went with Rustoleum instead. It worked great and sealed all 16 thousand leaking rivets. I'd avoid dark colors as well as gloss white. I used gloss white and it is just too brilliant. You get a sunburn even when wearing a broad brimmed hat. You might find you do not have that much available space under that floor as you might think. I would not be surprised if you may need stringers also. My MFG had a awful hog in the bottom from sitting on the trailer too long with no support on the back two feet. It had an internal wooden keel. I put support under the back of the boat and put a lot of water inside and left it sit a few weeks. It softened the wood and restored the original shape to the hull. I then left it dry out. Long process but that was years ago. Buy my MFG is an 50's unit and quite different from what you have. My deck is not original and lifts out after taking out two lag screws. Mine is so far from original it will most likely never be back.

dlatshaw wrote:

Mark,
Of course i have a lot of questions! I'm a new boarder and that's how I learn.
What about putting the gas tank under the deck? That would free up the storage area under the port seat.
What are the reasons to stay away from the bed-liner type coatings? Is it looks or is there a technical reason?
This is all in the planning stages. Won't open it up until winter.
Thanks!
Dan

Didn't mean to sound like I was scolding you Dan, you're right - asking questions is how we learn. (I'm still learning something almost every time I log on here!)
Gas tank under deck - As Robert stated, I don't know that you'll have enough room under there for that. Won't know for sure until you get her opened up, right?
Bed liner stuff - Just a couple weeks ago Ship Shape TV was showing some new stuff Rhino Linings (I think?) has out for marine applications, they were putting their stuff on a Sea Tow vessel being refurbished. (Mainly as a non-skid surface in that application.) I don't know of any technical reasons not to use it, other than if water ever does get under the wood it's covering it's going to make it almost impossible to dry it out? (But that would be true of many types of floor covering, so it may be a mute point.)

As stated - it's your boat, make it whatever way makes you happy. Keeping the basic lines and character of a boat is just my personal preference, I certainly make changes to suit my own needs or wants - no doubt. (Limited budget also comes into play a lot of the time, myself included!) We live by trial and error, sometimes it's the only way to figure this stuff out.

I just saw a new boat sitting on a trailer that was 3 feet too short. If that boat, from that boat builder, is at least 120 days out of the mold, no hook will develop in the boat's bottom.

I am sitting inside as I type as it is hot outside. Your boat and trailer is not even in my town.

I can not advise whether she can sit on your trailer during a structural replacement inner floor or not from here. Use your best judgement. More bracing is a half day's work at most and if it saves you two winters....well use your best judgement.

MarkS wrote:

dlatshaw wrote:
Didn't mean to sound like I was scolding you Dan, you're right - asking questions is how we learn. (I'm still learning something almost every time I log on here!)

Didn't think you were scolding!

Gas tank under deck - As Robert stated, I don't know that you'll have enough room under there for that. Won't know for sure until you get her opened up, right?

Guess we will wait and see! I do need a bit bigger tank, or a second one.

seabuddy wrote:

I just saw a new boat sitting on a trailer that was 3 feet too short. If that boat, from that boat builder, is at least 120 days out of the mold, no hook will develop in the boat's bottom.

My Holsclaw trailer ends right at the transom!

So i'll keep it on there, but block the heck out of it.

What about something like this: www.flexiteek.com/ Synthetic teek.

Or even using some of the synthetic decking for a house?

The fiberglass won't rot, so why not use something else that will not rot?

Anyone have experience with that?

So Just checked out the flexiteek / isiteek and it is just the surface material.

What about extruded plywood for the base? something like this:

www.boatstore.com/p105024wha27-marine-lumber-sheet-white-24-x-27-x-12.html?utm_source=googlepepla&utm_medium=adwords&id=22209859648&utm_content=pla&gclid=CN-z97HjubgCFcqe4AodEWQAgg

The Flexiteek is rather pricy, at $38 a sq. ft. for our 16'7" Boston Whaler it would cost just over $3K. A teal & holly or teal & rubber plywood would be much cheaper www.boulterplywood.com/MarinePlywood_4.htm

I've never used the Teco board or know anyone that has. I use expanded PVC foam sheet, its great to work with. It's lighter and stronger than marine plywood. Its not UV tolerant so needs painted or covered if it will be exposed to the sun. I get it locally from www.piedmontplastics.com/ in 4'x8' sheets. Its much cheaper than the smaller Teco sheets. Starboard is good and can have uses but is very heavy, expensive and nothing will stick to it.

If your looking for a padded covering the SeaDeck www.seadek.com/ is very popular here. I have not used it.

As an ex-boat dealer, I would size a trailer with the bunks at least 4-5 inches past the transom when balanced properly for towing. Four bunks on say, 17' boats and bigger.

Roller trailers go by having enough rollers to keep weight no higher than 32 lbs of boat, motor, boat gear, fuel, battery, crew supplies per roller.

Now that everyone says I am all wet and insulted their rig with my standards... OK, do what you think is right for your rig.

I am just giving what my boat stores ( I had four) did to size trailers to boats for folks.

My trailer has 4 sets of rollers. Plus the ones under the keel. I'll have to count and see what's what.

Speaking of trailers, mine had a flat on the way down and bent the rim. My spare is a lower load rating, so i bought 2 new wheels and tires down here.

I think the other tires were dry rotted.

We have a 9 hour trip tomorrow. How often should we stop to let things cool? Are there any speed restraints on a trailer?

The tires say 80psi cold. should they be inflated to 80 or something less?

Well as a 1958 boat the hook in my hull was evident at the bunks under it. It was hooked and it sat for many years with an outboard and fuel tank ,ETC in the back of the boat. It was quite noticeable. The hook is gone and has never came back. I supported the back of the boat and have never had another problem. The bunks were about 2 1/2 feet from the back. It had not roller back there either. I added one more. You could see right where the pad sat. The boat had sat for years exposed to the elements and as I stated had an internal wooden keel structure. After the wood softened from soaking it did go back where it was supposed too. I seen it happen. It did happen. So I have to disagree with you on that Seabuddy. That weight cantilevered out over almost a third of the boats length sitting exposed did hook it. Support the back of your boat. Who is to say if wood rot in the floor and transom will not leave the hook develop over time. My bunks support the boat but my keel rollers support the keel. It has been that way for years now. My trolling motor does not mount there it was just hanging there while I replaced the wooden block in the actual mount that bolted to the original holes for the stern handle. My battery is mounted forward so that is what the big wires are for. The deck has are space at both front and back to keep things dry. Two lag bolts hold the deck in place into the keel. In the background you can see my neighbors furniture collection they keep in their backyard. They actually had a cookout with that rubbish. YUCK

Make sure your bearings are greased well. If they are theres no need to stop at all but I do anyway every few hours and check the straps and feel the rims for excessive heat. Ron

hi well i am also a beginner but i have tackled the floor . recently i have cut 1/4 inch plywood as a template then transfer that to the 3/8" marine grade that i will use perm. i gutted the floor removed the waterlogged foam. cleaned and repaired any thing below the floor. i have a block of foam to go back, not really for floatation but for sound deadening. i laid my floor out screwed it down and then marked alignments tabs so it will go back the same.

i am going to remove it, resin the bottom and all the edges then lay the foam and put the floor in one more time. then glass the floor . i had originally thought of linex bed liner but i have about 20 square feet of floor, white linex is 12.00 a square foot. my floor was going to cost me 2400.00 to install . forget that. i'll find something. i will have a host of people to guide you through the process , just don't get overwhelmed ..