TOPIC: new floor

ok i just made my planks for my floor out of african mahogany and geting ready to lay it down any thoughts or hints i have never done it before and dont want to mess up i only have so much material to work with.

Have you confirmed that the original plywood and FG floor is solid and free of rot? Most restorations don't employ an overlay floor like you plan to do. Most just replace the plywood anf glass floor to original. But there are some people that have done similar applications as what you want to do on your Seafair. A word of caution though, it is probable that some water will get between the planks and the original floor. It will be difficult, if not impossible to keep it completely dry between the layers. This will hasten rot. So I'm not sure what the best method would be to "bed" the planks to the old floor. A thickened epoxy paste might work well, as would 3M 5200. But you would do well to ask an expert on these type "retrofit" floors.

Do you know Marty Loken at the Island Boatshop? He likes to put wood on glass boats like this and does great work. I would see what he has to say about your project & follow his advice.

BG

It's not an old floor I have rebuilt the stringers and reinforced the floor with marine grade plywood and fiber glassed over it. I was planning on running the planks vertical to allow waer to drain to the back transom. Another thought I had is to build a drop in floor so I can remove it during fishing eason (NO BLOODY FOORS!).

I have seen drop-in floor "grids" in a few boats. If you contact Marty, I'm sure he would be happy to discuss options with you. You can get ahold of him via the Northwest Classic Boat club website.

I made drop in floors for my 59 Tomahawk for both the back seat and space behind the back seat for the gas tanks, etc. They are 1x4s with a 3/4" space between the boards. Epoxy coated and painted. Very easy. Not sure I would do a solid drop in floor because the gaps do allow for water to evaporate.

Also, African Mahogany would look beautiful, but floors do take a lot of abuse so a nice finish would wear off fast. Also, you do want a level of non-skid for grip. My CC has vinyl sheeting on the floor and I ended up making Lexan covers with spray on non-skid for when I use it. Non-skid would be relatively easy on a pine wood slat floor.

Just a couple of thoughts.

i didnt think about the slip factor. with a clear coat on the floor i would need some kind of throw down mats. its things i need to think a bout because i have to build the seats and storage. tomorrow i am going to a wood shop and planing the floor planks and start my lay out on the floor and today i installed my gas gauge in the fuel. tank thanks for the thoughts

I'm anxious to see your results. I used teak and rubber plywood over Coosaboard.

i spent all day planing my planks for the floor what a pain in the ass but man they look awsome! i start the install this weekend.
so we will see how it turns out i will post pic.