TOPIC: New '58 Cutter Avon Owner

welcome jon,
wow my eyes are tired at 2:37 am,lol,its great to see you so excited about your classic cutter,we have 2 of them,my mom's fiance has the cutter avon sliding hardtop,in need of restoration, and i have the jet de ville,also in need of restoration,both ges/fbfiles/images/newer_209.JPG[/img] 1959's.
yours is in very good condition,and ,yes thats the way the floor is made on the cutters.

it must have been frank alguire(pc1000)that introduced you to us,he's a great guy,with a sunline camper and a power cat.

you are very lucky to have all the vollrath hardware for it,it is hard to find and pretty pricey,im lucky i have great friends on here that got me the bowlight for mine for me for christmas.

the original sternlight was shaped like a arow head also,i have one but it needs the pole,i will have to make my own pole for it.

i i were ou i wouldnt try to walk on the bow it has indentations that could crack,plus if you are in a area that goes below freezing keep the bow covered,water lays in these spots and freezes and will split the indents.
well its now 3:07 am time to go back to bed,lol,more later,lol,john

Thanks John!

Yes, it is Frank. He uses a different username on the Sunline forum, so I wasn't sure if it was the same here or not.

That hardtop is awesome! That really makes it unique, but hey, I have a hardtop on the pontoon if I want shade. I'll just go fast in this one to stay cool instead

I'm no small person, so thanks for the tip to not walk on the bow. I won't even attempt it then. The boat will have a permanent place in the heated garage here, which unfortunately doesn't fit my trailer, but it fits the boat fine. It stays about 50 degrees all winter long, so I don't have to worry about snow or cold affecting it.

I see that light on the brochure I think I found on here for Vollrath hardware. The Perko light there now does extend up to almost over the windshield level. I don't see any other holes around there, so did it use the same size for mounting? Or was it in the rear, center of the boat? The original owner built some sort of soft top and frame for it using galvanized pipe, which the one base is still mounted on the back there. The last owner removed the front two (right behind the windshield) but not that back one. I tried but it must have nuts underneath that I need to grab to make headway.

I'm off to bed too...

Jon

First off welcome to FG Jon. Congrats on scoring a fine 'Glassic, love the lines of the old Cutters! Looks like yours if fairly well preserved, probably not that hard to get her in useable condition. Somebody from your home state (MI?) can help with the details on getting the trailer registered, it usually involves the bill of sale and an inspection by the DMV to verify the serial number. Hopefully won't be a big hassle, but I would make that one of the first things to get done if it were me.

Having all (or most) of the Volrath hardware is definitely a plus. The burgee (flag) pole for the bow light is something you'll have to keep your eyes out for, save a search on eBay and check it regularly. They do turn up from time to time, but are a very sought after item it seems.

Keeping to the original color scheme is a matter of personal preference, IMHO. True restoration artists will bring them back exactly as they were originally offered, but many think it acceptable to change the color to suit their own personal taste. Keeping with one of the other originally offered colors would be acceptable to most I believe. It's your boat now, do whatever pleases you! It sounds like your thoughts are on the right track - keeping in line with one of the color schemes originally offered.

Checking the transom can be done by lifting up (tilt up and pull with all your might!) and pushing down (stand on the AV plate) on the motor to check for transom flex. You can also pull a screw or bolt in the transom area to check for black or wet wood. (There shouldn't be any!) I would recommend pulling these anyway to re-seal them. If there is rot present in the transom, you should see some of the nasty black stuff stuck to the threads of the fastener(s). The "thump test" is another method for checking the transom. When you thump the outside of the transom it should "ring back" and sound solid, rotted wood will be more of a dead thud.

The speedo looks like it might be original, the rub rail to me does not. Some of the gang here can fill you in on your options there, not sure if the original was white or black, but I'm pretty sure somebody has altered what's on there now.

Personally, I think a transom saver (prop rod for the outboard) is an excellent idea. The motor bouncing on the transom during travel is just as hard on it as operating the boat, IMO. I recently bought a "Swivel Ease" unit from Joe at www.FergusonPooleMarine.com , that bolts to the trailer frame. It has an excellent support system for the gearcase, and like your setup I have no roller at the rear to use the normal type on.
Well enough of my rambling, just wanted to welcome you aboard and share a little input for you. Keep us posted on your progress, there are a bunch of helpful folks here son don't be afraid to ask questions.

Good luck with your Cutter Jon! Hey, I'm a Sunline fan too, but you already knew that.

Generally I'm frank_a on most forums, and was frank_a here long ago, but something happened with my user name, couldn't get on, so changed it to PC1000 for Power Cat with a Merc 1000.

Put a new fuel line on my boat this morning, been wanting to do that a long time. Now it's back to the water heater project on my Sunline.

Frank

Jon you have a keeper there. You just might find a few Cutter fans here. Welcome aboard. I like your boat.

Jon,

WELCOME to the support group for OLDBOATaholics!

NICE restoration project too.

yours, satx

Great boat I love it. Big fan. I have a 1963 Owens cutter 14'

MarkS wrote:

First off welcome to FG Jon. Congrats on scoring a fine 'Glassic, love the lines of the old Cutters! Looks like yours if fairly well preserved, probably not that hard to get her in useable condition. Somebody from your home state (MI?) can help with the details on getting the trailer registered, it usually involves the bill of sale and an inspection by the DMV to verify the serial number. Hopefully won't be a big hassle, but I would make that one of the first things to get done if it were me.

Having all (or most) of the Volrath hardware is definitely a plus. The burgee (flag) pole for the bow light is something you'll have to keep your eyes out for, save a search on eBay and check it regularly. They do turn up from time to time, but are a very sought after item it seems.

Keeping to the original color scheme is a matter of personal preference, IMHO. True restoration artists will bring them back exactly as they were originally offered, but many think it acceptable to change the color to suit their own personal taste. Keeping with one of the other originally offered colors would be acceptable to most I believe. It's your boat now, do whatever pleases you! It sounds like your thoughts are on the right track - keeping in line with one of the color schemes originally offered.

Checking the transom can be done by lifting up (tilt up and pull with all your might!) and pushing down (stand on the AV plate) on the motor to check for transom flex. You can also pull a screw or bolt in the transom area to check for black or wet wood. (There shouldn't be any!) I would recommend pulling these anyway to re-seal them. If there is rot present in the transom, you should see some of the nasty black stuff stuck to the threads of the fastener(s). The "thump test" is another method for checking the transom. When you thump the outside of the transom it should "ring back" and sound solid, rotted wood will be more of a dead thud.

The speedo looks like it might be original, the rub rail to me does not. Some of the gang here can fill you in on your options there, not sure if the original was white or black, but I'm pretty sure somebody has altered what's on there now.

Personally, I think a transom saver (prop rod for the outboard) is an excellent idea. The motor bouncing on the transom during travel is just as hard on it as operating the boat, IMO. I recently bought a "Swivel Ease" unit from Joe at www.FergusonPooleMarine.com , that bolts to the trailer frame. It has an excellent support system for the gearcase, and like your setup I have no roller at the rear to use the normal type on.

Well enough of my rambling, just wanted to welcome you aboard and share a little input for you. Keep us posted on your progress, there are a bunch of helpful folks here son don't be afraid to ask questions.

Thanks Mark! Yes, I'm in Michigan, about 20 minutes north/northeast of Ann Arbor. I do hope to get it registered ASAP, and I actually planned on tomorrow, but I'd really like to know the actual year because this would be the time to change it.

I don't think I'll register the trailer right away though. I want to verify the year of the boat first. I was looking, and for Michigan, I can either pay $75 for a permanent trailer plate or $35 to put an authentic 1958 or 1959 trailer plate on it, which would also be permanent. I would probably carry the plate in the car with me to put it in the lake here just so it doesn't get damaged, so I'm not worried about damaging a vintage plate.

I'm thinking I may stick with the yellow, it's growing on me. When my grandparents built the cottage in 1964, the original siding was yellow, so it kinda fits with the time period. Are paint codes available anywhere? Everything on this boat is so faded that it's tough to get an accurate color sample. I removed the bottom '77 registration sticker, but I'm not sure if they bothered to put the stickers on before that, so that may not even be an accurate representation.

Do you have a picture of what the flagpole looks like? Just so I can have an idea what I'm looking for on eBay?

I only see two bolts that look like they go through the transom. The top motor mount bolts look like clamps more than bolts, and they have little levers on them to tighten them up. I didn't remove the bottom bolts today, but I did do a bump test with a rawhide hammer. I have a video to post in a little bit of the bump test, but it sounds good to me. I only see three cracks in the fiberglass cap on the transom, two small ones on the portside of the engine and one larger stress crack on the starboard side.

Jon

Thanks for the warm welcome everyone!

I went on a search for the hull number today to verify it. I see these boats had a data plate, but I can't find it here. I was out today working on some other stuff, but I did give the boat a few minutes of attention. I got in and took some pictures underneath the bow top while looking for the plate, and now I see, I certainly wouldn't want to walk on it! But all the wood looks real good.














I still really want to determine a year of the boat so that when I do go to get it in my name, I can get the year changed around rather than waiting and doing it later. I've determined that the engine is certainly a '59 based on seeing pics of both the '58 and '59 versions, which seem to look very different from each other.

Hull number from the registration is 7874506. Can anyone confirm/deny if this looks like a typical Cutter hull number and possibly a year? Not seeing any 58's or 59's in that number, so I'm at a loss...

Almost forgot, here's the video of the transom bump test from today. No worries about the hammer marks, they wiped right off.

Jon

shank867 wrote:

Great boat I love it. Big fan. I have a 1963 Owens cutter 14'

Very nice boat! Since you also have a 50 on the back, about how fast will it do?

WOW!!!! What a great find. Awesome condition too. even the Cutter emblems look very good. Thanks for posting the pics.


Rich

One thing for sure is we like pics and your are high quality ones.

Thank you sunline it is a nice boat. It does need work but I can still take it out and play I'm soon getting ready to start restore it. And I do about 33 MPH with 4 ppl on calm water but my motor isn't running like it should my have a compression issue but like I said I can still go out and play. It was a deal I couldn't pass up 750 for everything so I didn't do bad at all


New seats and carpet


Not bad for only being 25 yrs old. Always love old cars and trucks and now boats

Ritchie wrote:

WOW!!!! What a great find. Awesome condition too. even the Cutter emblems look very good. Thanks for posting the pics.

Rich

Yes, I polished one of them with some fine steel wool already to shine it up. They aren't perfect, but considering I think these are probably just pot metal like a lot of stuff from that era, they are in very good condition. I only polished the one so far, but the other is very close in condition. Best of all, neither are broken anywhere! I'm not sure how they are held in, I assume little pins, but one I noticed is coming a little loose. I don't think it could come loose enough to fall out, but I want to make sure it doesn't.

robert-lorigan wrote:

One thing for sure is we like pics and your are high quality ones.

When I can, I try to remember to take my DSLR out with me. I think all the stainless parts on the front, as well as the fins, all photograph really well. I need to do some outside with that. But sometimes I don't have it or don't feel like climbing up out of the boat to get the camera, so I just use my iPhone, which has a pretty decent camera itself. All the pics I took that first night, as well as the under-bow ones were phone pics.

shank867 wrote:

Thank you sunline it is a nice boat. It does need work but I can still take it out and play I'm soon getting ready to start restore it. And I do about 33 MPH with 4 ppl on calm water but my motor isn't running like it should my have a compression issue but like I said I can still go out and play. It was a deal I couldn't pass up 750 for everything so I didn't do bad at all

Do you have a hull serial number plate on your boat? Where is it? I'm still on the search and can't find it. I didn't think it should be so difficult...my pontoon has two that are easy to see.

Those seats look good. I think I need to add more padding to mine when I do them, since I hit the bottom of what's there much to easily now. I'm thinking like 3" foam or so would be good.

33 MPH is pretty good, and quite remarkable that it does that with four people in it! I paid $400 for mine, so I think I did ok. Shouldn't lose money on it, unless of course I get too anal with the restoration eventually...

Jon

Nice find Jon. Looks as if it is all there and not altered through the years. Great foundation.
Neil

I only have two fairly cheap cameras. I like to take pics and after you get to know them it is fun to take them. i HAVE A cANON 185 AND A Cheap Sony 12.2 Mega-pixal Cybershot. I love macro pics because I was an exterminator and like looking at bugs. I love my Canon best. I find it is a very valuable tool when you take lots of pics when tearing something down for reference. Get to know your camera well and you may not need an expensive one. Digital pics cost batteries and I take thousands of them.

hi jon,sorry i havent posted again ,things are a little tough right now,but there are a few things that i can tell you about your boat,i dont know where you can find the original rubrail,i tried every where.
i have a profile pic somewhere,but i cant find it,i will keep looking.

you may want to check out the foam under your seats,it tends to get soaked,and wow it adds alot of weight.
i think the best way to check is drill a small hole towards the bottom of the seats bases,or if you can feel up under the base where the drains are.

i cut the top of my seat bases out to get out the soaked foam,if you do this ,cut it out in an oval shape,dont cut square corners,it will crack there later.

as for the boat they are very,very well made,as you will find out if you cut into the seat bases,you will go through alot of jigsaw blades,lol.
i will keep looking for the pics of the rubrail,its a 2 part rubrail,it has an insert.

here are pics of my seat bases,with the wet foam.john

john-gibson wrote:

you may want to check out the foam under your seats,it tends to get soaked,and wow it adds alot of weight.
i think the best way to check is drill a small hole towards the bottom of the seats bases,or if you can feel up under the base where the drains are.

Thanks for the tips, John! I will look into the seats eventually. That makes sense about cutting a hole though, we have that problem on trailers too where the aluminum on the outside splits by a square corner door and the best way to stop it is to drill a small circular hole at the end of the crack. I saw it looked like some of this foam is missing already, but quite a bit is still there.

Since you have access to two '59s, does this hull number look somewhat close? 7874506

I'm trying to figure out whether it's a '58 or '59, even though the motor is a '59, so I can get it registered.

robert-lorigan wrote:

I only have two fairly cheap cameras. I like to take pics and after you get to know them it is fun to take them. i HAVE A cANON 185 AND A Cheap Sony 12.2 Mega-pixal Cybershot. I love macro pics because I was an exterminator and like looking at bugs. I love my Canon best. I find it is a very valuable tool when you take lots of pics when tearing something down for reference. Get to know your camera well and you may not need an expensive one. Digital pics cost batteries and I take thousands of them.

Very nice pictures! I do enjoy taking pictures also, and after having a very cheap point and shoot Kodak, I really saw a difference with the DSLR. It isn't a real fancy professional DSLR, but it's a Canon and I can use different lenses on it, which is nice. I was always disappointed with my point and shoot where I had to use the flash, so pictures were always washed out with hot spots or if I didn't use the flash, it was really grainy and awful. I rarely use the flash now, so the pictures look more true color and I don't have to worry about details going missing. I haven't had it too long, not quite a year and a half, and I've taken almost 10,000 pictures with it.

I got one of Canon's best point & shoots last year after the last Canon (a cheaper model) gave up the ghost. I love to take pics, and would sure love a DSLR, but now is not the time. I'm going broke fixing up an old Sunline! Seriously, maybe in a few years.

What I particularly like about the Canons is the rechargeable batteries. Even though my new one is slightly different than the old one, just being able to plug it in and charge it is so handy.

Boy Jon, if folks here don't know how that hull number relates to year, I don't know what to tell you. My guess would be that the last digit of a year is usually in a hull number, and as there's no "9" in yours, ergo, it's a '58! Not very scientific, but an idea...

Good luck!

Frank

Hey Frank,

PC1000 wrote:

I got one of Canon's best point & shoots last year after the last Canon (a cheaper model) gave up the ghost. I love to take pics, and would sure love a DSLR, but now is not the time. I'm going broke fixing up an old Sunline! Seriously, maybe in a few years.

I heard some camera company is making a DSLR-like camera that you can change lenses on, but the body is the size of a point-n-shoot. I don't know the quality it takes, but that seems like a nice option that I think would be cheaper. I think I heard about it around this past Christmas.

PC1000 wrote:

Boy Jon, if folks here don't know how that hull number relates to year, I don't know what to tell you. My guess would be that the last digit of a year is usually in a hull number, and as there's no "9" in yours, ergo, it's a '58! Not very scientific, but an idea...

I agree, I was thinking the same that since there's no 9 in it and there's an 8, it's probably a '58. But having another to compare to certainly helps. That's how I've been able to determine a lot of the Sunline Registry stuff, just the power of volume. At this point, I just want to know if this looks like a true Cutter hull number or not. I don't know if they're seven digits, four digits, all numbers, some alphas, or what, since I can't find that number on the boat anywhere.

Jon

I bought a Canon Powershot SX20 a couple of years ago. Takes great picture and I even got some great hi def video at the America's Cup World Series event in Newport, RI. Motivated me to look for a stabilizer to get even better shots. Maybe I can do some Glassic video at some point. For work I have a Kodak P&S 8.1 MP (in pink) that I bought on eBay for $25. Gives me some nice photos and I can throw it in a bag to take to construction sites and not worry about it. I always buy cameras that use regular and not proprietary batteries. Don't have to worry about not being able to find one when the special one wears out (that happened and had to pitch a perfectly good camera because the batteries were no longer available, even on eBay).

BTW, my parents had a old (mid 70s?) small Sunline trailer. They sold it to an artist friend of mine who used it to take cancer patients painting on location. She still has it and it is in not bad shape.

(I had a Glassic reference in there)

thetudor wrote:

BTW, my parents had a old (mid 70s?) small Sunline trailer. They sold it to an artist friend of mine who used it to take cancer patients painting on location. She still has it and it is in not bad shape.

I'd be interested in seeing pics of it, especially old ones from when it was closer to new. If it's a pre '78, it is quite rare as those are getting harder and harder to find now. If you get a chance, tell your friend about Sunlineclub.com...

Yesterday, I finally went to get the boat registered to me since I really don't think I'll get an answer on the year. So 1958 it is.

Then I went down the street to a junkyard that I know of to try to get some interesting bits for the boat. I thought it would be really unlikely to find a Cutter (or any boat with Vollrath hardware for that matter), but they did have limited boat inventory. Most were all stripped already. So no new stern lights.

But I was in search of a plug to work with the trailer plug, because I want to keep it original. After walking probably 1/2 to 3/4 of the yard, I finally found I think a '70s vintage F-150 with the plug I need. Unfortunately, the small bolts on it were so rusted together, I couldn't break them loose, so I had to break the plug off. With making the adapter I have planned, it shouldn't be a problem though.

I also thought about a jack. I know this style boat/trailer didn't originally have a tongue jack, but I want one to help me move it around the garage. But I didn't want just any jack, I want something that looks period. All the boats there except one weren't on trailers, and the one I did find had no jack. Well, on my way out, I saw a front part of the yard that I couldn't get to from anywhere else in the yard, and down at the end of that road, there was a I'd say '60s Evinrude boat on a tandem axle trailer, mostly complete, with the perfect jack. It's a 600 series Fulton, and should look nice all restored on the trailer. It is loose to turn now, but the wheel doesn't turn and the assembly doesn't swivel. But it should when I'm done.

I went today to a source I know for old license plates, and good ones at that, in hopes of finding a '58 Michigan trailer plate so I can get the trailer registered with it. No luck...he had years around it, but no '58. But he did offer a set a new/unissued 1958 Michigan boat plates. I knew these existed and I'm not sure why I haven't seen holes where these would have been, but I think they will be a nice addition to the boat.









Jon

hi jon,im sorry i havent answered you on the year,our boats dont have the plates,and things have been crappy here lately,sorry john

john-gibson wrote:

hi jon,im sorry i havent answered you on the year,our boats dont have the plates,and things have been crappy here lately,sorry john

No worries, John. I'm not sure how easy it would be to get the year changed anyway, and as Frank said, there's no 9 in the serial number, but there is an 8.

I took the jack out today and got it mounted. First, I cleaned it up and painted it a little. The jack tube gets scraped up when the jack moves, and the paint job looks altogether bad, but good considering both color paint cans were basically empty. I think I matched the jack to the trailer well though, and when everything gets properly painted, it'll still be this color scheme. I like it.

The jack works much better than I ever expected. I fully disassembled it, cleaned all the parts, regreased everything that needed it, and then put it all back together. It lifts the (light) trailer with very little effort at all, and it lowers it down quite a ways. I can hook it to the lawn tractor now without having to deal with folding the jack.



Then this evening, I got an e-mail from the previous owner, he found some parts for the boat. So I went out there and picked them up- an original metal and wood step swim ladder, a aluminum hand pump for water (is this supposed to be a sign?), and the rest of the original fuel system parts.

Since I was out that way, close to the marina, I saw they had late hours being Monday, so I stopped in and picked up a new fuel line assembly, some gear lube for the lower unit, and a couple new dock lines.

Even though it was warm, I connected all the fuel lines, put some gas in the tank, and attempted to fire it up. I also went through and checked/re-clamped all the hose connections that the previous owner had off and didn't have the clamp rings close to the end. The tank I used seemed to seal well and was very clean inside. I primed it, but I couldn't get it to start. Cranked and cranked, but no go. So now I have to figure out where the problem is. Good news is though, much to my surprise, the fuel level cork assembly is fully in tact and functioning properly!

very nice sunline!
my father was smart, years ago he put a trailer ball on the front of his garden tractor ,he could put a trailer anywhere he wanted,and didnt have to turn around,john

Worked on the boat again tonight. I started by taking the cover off. I found the fuel bowl had no gas in it, which explains why it wouldn't start yesterday. I took a half hour or so to figure out why, took a tank apart, etc. I finally determined the previous owner must have taken the hoses off inside the engine and not put them back on correctly. So I went through and put them where I think they should go.

Then gave it a go. Still cranks well but doesn't start. Almost did a couple times though, and the fuel bowl is full. Pulled the hose off the fuel pump and when attempting to start, it pumped out fuel, so it's good. Then pulled a spark plug. Dry. So...carb problem?

My neighbor came over and suggested pouring a little gas into the top of the carb and then seeing if it would start. It did. It continued to run for a while, so I'm not sure if it was then able to draw the gas from elsewhere, or what. I then shut it down and attempted to restart about 30 seconds later. Started fine. Then attempted about 5-10 minutes later, no go.

Here's a short video I took of it running:

s123.photobucket.com/albums/o311/SunlineFan/?action=view¤t=IMG_1356.mp4

Well, the engine does start up and run now, but it has to have about half throttle to do so. Put it up to full throttle and not much happens- it revs a little, but not much. Pull it back all the way to what I assume would be idle, and it will die. After consulting with Frank, he agreed it probably needs carb adjustment and to hit up the JEGO forum. I will do that in time when I get some serious time to work on adjusting it. I just started a new job, so I don't have time to play like I used to.

However, I did get a little work done today. I got tired of looking at the dull hubcap, so I gave it some attention. You can tell it was made back when they actually made these hubcaps out of quality metal. It has some surface rust that really didn't clean off, but none of it is bad and the back side/lip doesn't have any bad rust eating into it. I did see it appears one of the clips bolted to the wheel that must hold the hubcap on must have broke a long time ago, because I didn't find any loose parts. It's one of four, so it still is on there snug, but I imagine it could come off if I'm not careful and don't replace it.

I also worked on polishing today. I had hoped I could just get away with some light touch up on the white part and then just paint the yellow. I have decided I want to stick with the original yellow too- I don't care for the red, coral, or blue options, as they didn't seem to be real vibrant colors that popped. So I don't think the yellow looks all that bad, it's certainly different.

After a couple hours of working on about half the starboard side, it looks much better, but I'm not sure if it's good enough to retain as the final finish. With a buffing wheel and polishing compound, followed by a cleaning and finish wax, it has a nice shine to it, but the fiberglass just looks discolored in spots. I had a red polishing compound too, which the fiberglass seems to have soaked up some. I used a cleaner to remove most of the residue, but it seems like the tint is still there a little. So I'll have to look for some white compound and go over it again.

One thing I'm realizing is that this gelcoat must not have looked anything like the newer gelcoat I'm familiar with. This stuff almost has like a texture to it, even though it feels smooth. It just looks like it has a grain in it, if you will, where the 2005 vintage Crownline fiberglass is just smooth and deep, as if it were a high quality paint job.

Here are some pics:

Partially polished, before and after:





I started polishing about 12" back from that rust drip line below the "A". It kinda looks shinier starting there.



Kinda looks to be reflecting a little bit here:

Wow don't you just love the satisfaction of a job well done. It's looking good.

hi jon,where do you live?ed is selling his cutter avon with the sliding hard top,for 100 bucks,but i would like to get a couple of cleats from it,if thats ok with ed.john

I'm in southeast Michigan, about 20 minutes north/northeast of Ann Arbor.

i thought you might like to have it for the hard top,john

john-gibson wrote:

i thought you might like to have it for the hard top,john

I am, but I don't have to time nor equipment to travel a long way to pick it up with no trailer. It would be nice though! I'm assuming his is in PA as well?

Also, any chance you could snap a pic of that white rubrail on either before you sell? I have come to terms with doing away with the replacement rubrail I have because the way it's mounted, it really doesn't serve the correct purpose without causing damage. I know I'll need to make one, but I need to figure out what it looked like originally.

Thanks,
Jon

jon,as soon as i get my camera out of the garage i will post pics of a piece of it,i looked everywhere for it and nothing even close to it.john

Thanks John! Is the piece all rubber, or rubber and something else? Does it go over the fiberglass lip or connect above it?

Jon, COngrats on your Cutter purchase! A few tips for you when cleaning and polishing. I always start out cleaning the metal trim, insignias, etc with bronze wool. It wont scratch like the steel wool. Check out the gelcoat restoration articles here on this site. It will inform you of on the repair and restoration of the gel coat. We have to remember that the boat is over 50 years old, and back then, they were still experimenting with the materials that they had at the time. Colors and materials have come along way since then! The pale yellow color was a very popular color back in that time period and is classic in my opinion! Enjoy the process of learning the history and bringing the classic back to life. It is a very rewarding experience!
Cheers!

hi jon,here are pic of a section i cut out of the jet de ville,it was attached through the top notch with screws,and then a white cord fit in the notch to cover the screws.john
front
back,goes against the hull.