TOPIC: New '58 Cutter Avon Owner

hi jon,here are pic of a section i cut out of the jet de ville,it was attached through the top notch with screws,and then a white cord fit in the notch to cover the screws.john
front
back,goes against the hull.

john-gibson wrote:

hi jon,here are pic of a section i cut out of the jet de ville,it was attached through the top notch with screws,and then a white cord fit in the notch to cover the screws.john
front

back,goes against the hull.

Thanks John, those pictures are perfect! Was it screwed/bolted in every 12" or so? If so, I bet the rubrail I have now uses the same mounting holes then.

72hornet wrote:

Jon, COngrats on your Cutter purchase! A few tips for you when cleaning and polishing. I always start out cleaning the metal trim, insignias, etc with bronze wool. It wont scratch like the steel wool. Check out the gelcoat restoration articles here on this site. It will inform you of on the repair and restoration of the gel coat. We have to remember that the boat is over 50 years old, and back then, they were still experimenting with the materials that they had at the time. Colors and materials have come along way since then! The pale yellow color was a very popular color back in that time period and is classic in my opinion! Enjoy the process of learning the history and bringing the classic back to life. It is a very rewarding experience!
Cheers!

Thanks, it has been a lot of fun in the short time I've had it, and I haven't even put it in the water yet! Fortunately, the metal trim really doesn't need work, because it looks really good right now. The only thing on the boat itself are the Cutter emblems, which aren't bad now as it is. All the Vollrath stainless parts are essentially perfect except for a few water spots.

I started looking at the articles on gelcoat and fiberglass repair. Those are some interesting reads that I will have to get to sometime. Thanks. I'm not sure how much of mine is gelcoated, if any, and the yellow seems to be too thin to be a gelcoat. One would think the polishing compound would clean it up to the yellow again (or start getting there), but it doesn't. It seems like the yellow was painted on, not gelcoated.

It would be nice to get the white polished and then just touch up the repair areas rather than repainting all of it. It's awfully oxidized by the water line area and below though, so idk if any polish will remove that.

John, in order to try to find and possibly make a replacement rubrail, could you get me the following dimensions from that piece? Letters A-H.



Thanks!

Jon

Congratulations Jon! The Cutter is a great find and one that you will be proud of. I have been searching for the Vollrath Viking marine hardware for a while now and I can tell you it is something special. It was designed by Brooks Stevens and if you don't know who he is, please look him up on the Internet--it's interesting information.

Stern Light: Globes for stern light are available, but in some cases can be a little expensive. The Vollrath Stern lights are hard to come by, as I have only seen photos of two on the Internet, and I have yet to see one pop up on ebay.

Step Pads: I have seen two sets for sale on ebay, and both were cracked due to age & weathering. I do not know of any businesses that make reproductions. You may just have to accept the fact, but you never know what NOS might pop up as people find stuff in it's original packaging all the time.

Bow Light: The Anvil shaped Vollrath bow light is a unique piece. I would caution you to be careful with the long screws as I have not found anyone who has them with the same type of screw head. Also, be careful with the lenses as they are not made anymore and would be extremely difficult to replace. I have never seen a Vollrath stainless flag pole to go with the bow light, and I do not think Vollrath made one as I have not seen one in their patent paperwork nor in any of their surviving advertisements.

Steering Wheel: Judging by the photos, you have a Vollrath Viking Steering wheel as well. The steering wheel is pretty cool looking and it appears yours is in great shape. I'm interested in a close up photo of the center cap on the steering wheel.

Anyway, thought I'd share this bit of info with you. I would also like to add that the paint scheme you use is your perogative. You can go with the stock color scheme or customize it your way, I've seen both and I don't think any collector would be critical. Best of Luck on this project, Jon. LeeMo

LeeMo wrote:

Congratulations Jon! The Cutter is a great find and one that you will be proud of. I have been searching for the Vollrath Viking marine hardware for a while now and I can tell you it is something special. It was designed by Brooks Stevens and if you don't know who he is, please look him up on the Internet--it's interesting information.

Stern Light: Globes for stern light are available, but in some cases can be a little expensive. The Vollrath Stern lights are hard to come by, as I have only seen photos of two on the Internet, and I have yet to see one pop up on ebay.

Step Pads: I have seen two sets for sale on ebay, and both were cracked due to age & weathering. I do not know of any businesses that make reproductions. You may just have to accept the fact, but you never know what NOS might pop up as people find stuff in it's original packaging all the time.

Bow Light: The Anvil shaped Vollrath bow light is a unique piece. I would caution you to be careful with the long screws as I have not found anyone who has them with the same type of screw head. Also, be careful with the lenses as they are not made anymore and would be extremely difficult to replace. I have never seen a Vollrath stainless flag pole to go with the bow light, and I do not think Vollrath made one as I have not seen one in their patent paperwork nor in any of their surviving advertisements.

Steering Wheel: Judging by the photos, you have a Vollrath Viking Steering wheel as well. The steering wheel is pretty cool looking and it appears yours is in great shape. I'm interested in a close up photo of the center cap on the steering wheel.

Anyway, thought I'd share this bit of info with you. I would also like to add that the paint scheme you use is your perogative. You can go with the stock color scheme or customize it your way, I've seen both and I don't think any collector would be critical. Best of Luck on this project, Jon. LeeMo

Hi Lee,

Thanks so much for such a thoughtful reply. I have researched the Vollrath hardware a little bit, but I haven't done any searching for any parts on eBay, etc. beyond a one time glance.

Thanks for the tips on the flag pole. I will see about making one or buying one if I can find one the size of the hole. I disassembled the bow light once already when I found none of the lights were working, but then I realized only engine wires were connected to the battery. I have yet to light anything up yet though. It does have three matching screws though, and I believe they are flat heads. I will take care of them when I pull it apart again.

I'm not actively pursuing an original stern light because I don't have the time to search for one. I don't plan to show the boat though, but I appreciate those who do want all the original parts. I'm of the opinion of keeping it original as much as possible and then modify if it could still be put back to original some day if needed without problem. The base there is in good shape- I'm not sure if it's an original Vollrath base or not though, but the Perko light on there now does need replacement. I have the parts of the glass lens, but I don't trust that it would stay together. Do you have any pictures of what the original base looked like? I saw in the ads that it also extends like my current one does.

My step pads are in pretty good shape, aside from the light cracking. I'm content with using them (carefully) still, but my dad was curious if any reproductions were available. Once I found out how rare the Vollrath hardware is, I figured there was no chance of this.

Yes, I agree, it is a Vollrath steering wheel. It's in very good shape aside from one small area that I'm told had one of those little wheel things mounted on it. I did some cleaning on it and it looks MUCH better than it did when I first got it. I will certainly get you a pic of the center cap. I tried to get some before, but I think I remember they were blurry, which is why I didn't post them. It is a red plastic cap that just kinda sits in there. The Cutter logo is in there under like a gel stuff, which has weathered over time. The Cutter logo is still visible though, and it's better after I did a little bit of polishing. The cap just sits in there, and I got it in a box of parts from the previous owner. I put it back on with a couple very small dabs of silicone to help hold it and not have it fall out/get lost. I put it on what turns out to be upside down though (didn't realize the wheel was a V style, not the other way), so I'll have to fix that.

Jon

Jon, Here's a photo of the Vollrath Stern Light base. LeeMo

LeeMo wrote:

Jon, Here's a photo of the Vollrath Stern Light base. LeeMo

Thanks! I sent you a link of pictures I took of all the stainless hardware.

I'm not sure my Perko light base would cover all the original Vollrath holes, so I wonder if it didn't have it originally then? I will have to take it off and see if there's any extra holes underneath.

Well, after quite a few months of inactivity on this, I'm finally getting back at it. I kinda just tucked the boat in the back of the garage while all the crazy fall stuff went on. Now that everything is inside and winterized, I was able to do some work.

I took all the seats out today and brought them home to see about getting some quotes for having new ones made. I'm just going to get new wood and have new padding and covers made up. I got to thinking, I would have to figure out what pattern to make the bottoms since they were recovered. Well I looked closer today and saw what looked like the piping that matched the seat backs under the new fabric too. So I went to work stripping the new material off and what do you know, there's the original fabric! The seams have all been re-sewn way too many times, but it should serve as a pattern nonetheless. There are a couple places around who do boat cover work and I suspect one also does a lot of replacement seats. I will see if they have similar color vinyl that's also UV resistant, as well as some decent padding. I'd like to increase the padding on the seats while I'm at it too. Interestingly, the re-covers are actual genuine Naugahyde with what I think is a manufacture date of 3/77 on the back. So these seats were re-covered, used for about a year or two, and then the boat was put away. That explains why those look so good yet.



I also removed the windshield and most of the rubrail today. I had help to hold all the nuts inside, so it made it much easier. The one place I want to quote for seats also does glass work, so I'm thinking they might be able to polish the windshield as well.



Still hoping to get it on the water next summer, but I'm not sure if that will happen. I'm looking for a stand now for the engine so I can remove it from the boat, and an authentic Johnson stand would be great. I will probably have to find someone local to look it over and tune it correctly since I don't have the time or knowledge of engines to get it done right. Plus I need to do the impeller on the pontoon before spring as well.

Jon

Jon,
Where in Michigan are you located? I also live in Michigan, and have the "Little Brother" to your Cutter, a 14' Owens that is almost identical. I pick her up just down the road from Tawas, actually West (the olnly way right off 55, but a little closer to West Branch. I am in the process of restoration as I write. I would like to share some of my minimal knowledge and gain some from you too. You can write me directly at This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.

Regards,
Steve

StevieB wrote:

Jon,
Where in Michigan are you located? I also live in Michigan, and have the "Little Brother" to your Cutter, a 14' Owens that is almost identical. I pick her up just down the road from Tawas, actually West (the olnly way right off 55, but a little closer to West Branch. I am in the process of restoration as I write. I would like to share some of my minimal knowledge and gain some from you too. You can write me directly at This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.

Regards,
Steve

I just sent you an email!

I've started working on the Cutter lately. Most of the components have been stripped off and bagged. My dad and I started on the windshield a couple weeks ago, and it looks 1000% better. There's still a significant scratch toward the top and probably right in view from sitting behind the steering wheel. My dad doesn't think it's a good idea to try to sand it out, but I think it could be worked out. The last step is we got a headlight restoration kit to use on it to see if we can improve on some of the scratches. But the oxidation and 99% of the scratches are completely gone.

I met up with Steve last weekend and we both checked out our boats. Boy is the Jet deVille style MUCH smaller, not just in length. He was working to sand out his gelcoat and suggested I do the same, because it was really coming back. The only difference, his boat actually looked quite blue already. Also, the later Cutter/Owens style rub rail is much more durable and better looking with aluminum and a rubber insert. I'm still searching for someone who can make one or already carries something that'll work, but the rubrail products I've looked into are designed for flat or mostly flat surfaces. I hope I don't have to grind down the lip on the boat, but I may have to in order to get something to work.

This weekend, I really got into sanding. I had help to crawl inside the boat and hold all the nuts for me too so I could remove the rest of the hardware- I don't know how I would have done that if it were just me. I've been using a mix of 400 and 600 grit, both wet, and the yellow is just starting to come through. I'm hesitant to go any coarser though, but it just isn't going through. The initial oxidized layer went away quickly, but the whitish stuff over the color is a real problem.

I also built an engine stand today, but I don't think it's quite strong enough. I had help to pick the engine up off the boat today- it took three of us. It's much heavier than I expected. The bad news is I found the transom cap is cracked underneath, but I don't think there's any damage or rot. I think I will see about getting an aluminum cap for the top of the transom to give it stability.

I also connected the transom tie downs today. At one point in researching, I read about these and that they are kind of hard to find. These were tied up with a clothes hanger wire underneath the trailer, but they are complete! One of the cams is a little rusty and the other's clamp screw is bent/rusted in, but I think I can make them both work. It looks like a great solution to keeping the boat securely on the trailer!

I've continued looking all over the boat for a hull number/serial number, but still nothing!

A few pictures:

I don't like the looks of that crack. You might want to drill a few core sample holes in it. I completely sealed my transom on the top of my Winner. It has an aluminum cap. I took it off and the wood had no other protection. I put a few layers of glass on it ,painted it and plan to put the cap back on. My plywood was solid but was just starting to determinate a little. After all the glue in the wood is 54 years old and I'm sure some water found it's way in. I injected a good waterproof wood glue all the way down into the bottom of the delamination and clamped it. I'm very happy with the results. Love what your doing. Wish I had my garage back.

I really love the lines of the old Cutters Jon, sure wish I hadn't sold my Tornado! Great to see you getting rolling on the project, but I have to agree with Robert's concerns on the transom. I believe the cracked 'glass is a sign that the wood core is compromised, PLEASE check it out carefully before "capping" it off and going ahead with the project. I know it's something you probably don't want to hear right now, hope I'm wrong. But better to address it now than having a disaster later on right? You're going to have a mighty fine 'Glassic when you're done, well worth the effort IMHO.

Thanks Mark & Robert! I agree, the transom is a concern, and curiosity would have me investigate it before I just capped it off. Back in the summer, I did pound on the fiberglass on both sides of the motor with a rubber hammer and it had a very solid sound to it, so hopefully if there is damage, it may just be isolated to the top area there. I took these pics as I was leaving and thought about testing that after I left. The boat isn't at home, so I don't get out there frequently enough to work on it every day or so.

One other thing that my dad thinks might have contributed to the crack- the clamps on the motor go against a small plastic plate on the inside. Because it's plastic, he thinks the flex could have caused it. If it were cast, it wouldn't have flexed and may not have cracked?

Thanks for the tip of drilling some small holes. I think with the design of the Avon, I can probably get a camera/mirror/hammer/drill up to check out the wood from inside the gas compartment. Granted I haven't looked specifically, but I know I felt good wood there as I was removing the nuts/washers on the bottom bolts. I know that wouldn't really be possible on a Jet deVille since the back area is pretty well sealed.

I really would like to avoid pulling the top cap off if at all possible. You're right though about not wanting to hear about it though... One thing I failed to mention last night is I also took the seats to a place locally to have redone, and the sticker shock of that alone I hope is still a dream. They will remove the covers for templating and call me to come pick up the wood. She has also been instructed to return all components of the original seats, not just the wood. Then I will make up new wood for them, paint/prep, and return to her for covering. She is sewing it up with Windsong Sea Salt marine vinyl contrasted with Windsong Jamaican Sun with the same pattern and piping as the originals. I feel the original pattern really fit well with the boat- between all the Vollrath V's, the V in the fiberglass gas door, etc. Sure, I could have had just plain seat covers made up for a lot cheaper, but this will be doing it right. The only challenge is, as I agree with, the new seats need to have proper venting in them. The old ones had no venting at all, which explains why all the seams blew out. It won't be a problem except for the back of the front bench, which I need to come up with something for. A plain plastic grate would be kind of unsightly, IMO. One idea I had was the cap from a Vollrath dredge. It should provide enough air flow (with four vents), as well as a nice tribute to the rest of the boat.

And then there's needing to find a boat lift for it too. There's no way I'm doing all this polishing work just to have it sit in the water and look horrible at the end of the season...

Been sanding more lately, but still lots to go. It's starting to look more yellow now though.

Also removed the stern light today. Just hadn't made it a priority, because I wasn't doing much back there, but it made a great thing to do to get away from sanding for a bit. The Perko stern light is definitely the original, because it wasn't faded underneath and there's no extra holes. In zooming in on the brochure pictures, it looks like the Jet DeVille may have come with a Vollrath stern light, but the Avon very well may not have come with a stern light from the factory. Now to just put some new wires on this one, polish it, and find a new glass.

Also, thanks to StevieB for alerting me of a part out going on, I was able to pick up some Cutter name plates from Joenawlins, who was parting out his Jet DeVille. One of them is broken and the other is very pitted, but they exist. I haven't removed my fin plates yet, so hopefully I won't NEED to use one. My dad says he will try to repair the broken one (which is in three pieces).

However, this was my initial idea for it, so I got some tape today and put it there temporarily. I like it even more after seeing it come to life. I really breaks up the plain-ness of the dash:



Sanding progress for today. Sorry for the poor picture/lighting. Finally getting the number shadows to become less obvious, but I suspect they may never disappear.



Jon

Jon,
Keep sanding. Take your time and enjoy bringing it back to life!!!
You will have a treasue when you are done.

I really like the "Cutter" emblem on the dash.

I want to get back out in the garage to continue my sanding, but it is way toooooo cold. Instead, I have been working on polishing the hardware and windshield, and rewiring my lights.

Take Care,
StevieB

Made lots of progress today. Initial sanding is almost done on half the boat (top only of course), just need to touch up a few areas.

Probably won't happen for a little while though because I killed my new Makita finishing sander. It's only five weeks old. So now I have to figure that out this week, because I didn't buy it close by, so it isn't so easy as returning it.

Anyway, here's a progress pic. Just sanded around the Cutter name for now, need help to safely remove that, which I didn't have today.

Congratulations on your project. I haven't checked this website for a while, but thought attached pictures might be of some assistance. I found a serial number on the starboard transom handle. The style rubrail pictured is available, if yours is the same, but you'll see a PO opted for an oaken bumper system on the yellow boat.

I'll throw a couple of boat pictures in too for inspriation, but you already are way ahead of me.

Thanks for all the info, Bob! You solved my biggest mystery of all too! I have a hull number!!

My rear Vollrath handles are different than the Jet DeVille handles, I guess a little stronger. I just happened to take pics of the profiles of this handle one day, and somehow I never caught the number on there. I guess I would never have expected it stamped onto the handle. Of course it doesn't match the registration, but it confirms it's a '58 Cutter Avon, #247. I will verify the number when I'm out there next. I've never looked at the handles real close because I haven't removed them yet.



Is yours a Jet DeVille or a Como? It looks like you're making some good progress though. I'd like to think I'm farther along on mine than I actually am...

I'm currently working with a company to have a custom rub rail produced because I couldn't find the original. Have you found a source for that rubber rub rail in your picture?

The rubrail is commercially avaiable. I'll check my files to get you a source.

The blue boat is a CJ and has a January 58 date stamped on the handle, but sure looks like a 57. As I remember the yellow boat is a 58 Como, but I could check if it's important.

You might check Wefco Rubber on the rub rail. They made the original rail for my 58 Glasspar delMar, still in business, and they have a web page with profiles of the stuff they produce. Here's a link:
www.wefcorubber.com/extrusions_marine_rub_rails.asp

Norm

Sorry, I couldn't find a receipt. I called a regular molding supplier in 2008 or 2009, possily Wefco, and spoke to customer service. I sent a picture of the molding, and possibly a sample. The rep mumbled something about recognizing the molding as being used on boats in the 50's. He said they didn't make it, but he could get it from another supplier. It took about three weeks, cost about $300, and shipped from California.

The boat is in Florida. If I didn't throw the old molding away (and I know I should have) it will be in my garasge up here (Toledo). I'll let you know if I find it.

Thanks Norm & Bob! Wefco is actually the company I'm working with. I made a drawing and they sent me back this hand drawn proof. I think it should work, but my only fear is the groove may not be deep enough. I have it at 1/2" and the lip is under that in most places, but of course the one place I put the drawing (which measures 1/2") up by has a bigger lip. I suppose I could always sand it down though so 1/2" could fit. Pete at Wefco, who I've been working with, looked through all of his dies already and didn't find anything that could accommodate the lip.



Bob, yes, I'd be interested in your numbers if you get a chance, just for comparison. As I've found other Cutters that have a visible hull number (the newer ones had it on a plate on the dash), I record that so I can track them and figure out the method to their madness. I went out and pulled my handle last night. It has some scratches in the front of it that made it harder to read. It is CAO458-247.

If you take those Century MC numbers to the Secretary of States office if the boat still lives they would tell you. and may provide the owners name and location. If the boat went out of state the number would have been changed. In Michigan the numbers stay with the boat untill death.
JAG

Thanks JAG. I do have the original MC numbers for it (MC 1096 AZ), so they are definitely the original numbers being so low. The boat is registered to me now with those numbers, but it has a different hull number on the registration that has no resemblance to the actual number now found.

The story goes, the guy I bought it from just bought it with a bill of sale, so the secretary of state must have just assigned a number to it (though I couldn't confirm that). Before I got the '15 stickers for it, it hadn't been registered since 1977/exp 1980. So I think it was just out of the system. I registered my grandpa's rowboat to me last year when he signed it over to me, and it hadn't been registered since 1986 I think. It was not in the system, and the Secretary of State office seemed to recreate the entry based on the old registration I had, but still with the original numbers.

sunline im sorry i just thought of this,but it might be to late,i could send you a piece of the rubrail if you want just give me your address,john

Jon, Well I'll be darned! I almost bought that boat just south of my cottage in Alabaster Township, the community bordering Tawas to the south. I have to drive by the cottage that was its original home on the way to my place. I did not buy it out of fear of my wife. I have 8 boats now. the owner was asking $450. I could just kick myself for not buying it.

A couple of years previous, I also almost bought the cottage next door, so I am familiar with it's original home.. It appeared to have lived it's life in a boat house down on the beach..

my plan for that boat would have been just to clean it up and then wheel it out. I suggest you try that first. I think you will be very pleased with its appearance. Sounds like the motor is close to running, just finish it up.

if memory serves,the boat was in original condition. The speedometer is correct vintage, not sure it was exactly a 1958, but many boats of that era had accessories added by the dealer or the new owner. my dad had a 1960 aristocraft with the exact speedo, that he installed in the summer of 1960.

The forsale sign claimed the boat was a 1958 and 1959 motor. Motor is definitely a 1959.

I check transoms by standing on the motor fins, bounce a biit and look for flexing of the transom. I Did that to that boat and it was solid.

You have a fiberglassic, congrats, have fun with it!

Craig

Big Blue wrote:

Jon, Well I'll be darned! I almost bought that boat just south of my cottage in Alabaster Township, the community bordering Tawas to the south. I have to drive by the cottage that was its original home on the way to my place. I did not buy it out of fear of my wife. I have 8 boats now. the owner was asking $450. I could just kick myself for not buying it.

A couple of years previous, I also almost bought the cottage next door, so I am familiar with it's original home.. It appeared to have lived it's life in a boat house down on the beach..

my plan for that boat would have been just to clean it up and then wheel it out. I suggest you try that first. I think you will be very pleased with its appearance. Sounds like the motor is close to running, just finish it up.

if memory serves,the boat was in original condition. The speedometer is correct vintage, not sure it was exactly a 1958, but many boats of that era had accessories added by the dealer or the new owner. my dad had a 1960 aristocraft with the exact speedo, that he installed in the summer of 1960.

The forsale sign claimed the boat was a 1958 and 1959 motor. Motor is definitely a 1959.

I check transoms by standing on the motor fins, bounce a biit and look for flexing of the transom. I Did that to that boat and it was solid.

You have a fiberglassic, congrats, have fun with it!

Craig

Craig, what a small world! I'm going to send you an email now because I didn't buy it in Tawas, but I'd love to connect with the original owners to find out the history on the boat. The guy who bought it there also has a cottage in the area and started the restoration but gave up. I bought it here in the Brighton area.

John, I sent you an email too, so be on the lookout. Thanks!

Progress from this weekend.

Just taking it one piece at a time...

I just received my new rubber rub rail from Wefco and took it out to see how it looked. For something I created out of an idea and throwing some numbers together on AutoCAD, I'm shocked at how great this looks! Really, it's stunning. I didn't want to risk uncoiling the stainless by myself, so I didn't put that on Here's a few pictures:

















Also, I've been working on the seat boards too. Went to Home Depot and got all 3/8" bare plywood. I decided against marine grade due to the lack of water interaction and I decided against treated so that the paint would better soak in. The original front seat back was 3/8" ply, and the rest of the seats were 1/4". I went with 3/8" for everything now. I got the boards all cut by using the old ones as patterns, then put one coat of white paint on all of it, and put a second coat on one side until it got really cold again and too cold to paint. I need to put that second coat on again, and potentially a third on the finished side (I've been going thin), and then finish off with black and red splatter paint like the original.



I stopped by the shop to get a vinyl sample in order to drill the holes for the vents big (and small) enough for the vent to fit in with the vinyl. They already got the vinyl in for the job- here's the roll with both colors:

It's always nice when a project goes good. Congratulations. I've had a few hits, and some misses in my time trying to recreate non-existent items.

Looks like you're coming right along Jon, good for you! That rub rail is gonna look great!

I've had enough problems with wood seats bases in boats, so picked up some 1/2" plastic plywood to rebuild my rear seat base. It will never rot!

Been busy pulling apart my hot rod for a rebuild, but as soon as the weather gets nice, I have some work on a certain Sunline to do. I have to replace all the wood around the rear window and re-install the window weather-tight before heading up to Maine for Memorial Day weekend.

Keep up the great work!

Frank

Hello all, I am new with fiberglasics so I am not sure if I am even doing this email correct. I am looking for assistance on refinishing this boat. I was told it was a 1958 Cutter Jet Deville, BUT all the pictures that I have seen online do NOT show this type of bow.
Did Cutter make different bows for the same year? Is there a light that is supposed to go in the raised part?

Does anybody out there know what year or type of boat this is?
Its approximately 15.5 ft long and 5.5 ft wide.

It is in pretty good condition, transom is solid.
What kind of paint should I use (epoxy)?
What kind of motor should I use? I picked up a 1956 Johnson Javelin 30 HP, will this be sufficient?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Freddie B.

This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.

Welcome aboard Freddie, have you checked the Cutter section in the FG Library?;
www.fiberglassics.com/library/Cutter
It's best to start a new thread with your request, and post some pics of your boat to help the gang identify it when you get a chance. Pic posting can be a little tricky until you get the hang of it, let us know if you need a hand.

Freddie,
Please start a new thread and post a pic of your boat. Jon has a Cutter and I have an Owens and we have been networking on our restorations. We will be glad to help you!
Regards,
StevieB

I just realized I didn't update about the seats.

I got the boards done and delivered to the upholstery shop. Gave them two coats of white, plus learned how to do black and red splatter paint on top like one of the original seat boards had (the others were raw). Here they are just before taking them, and the vents were installed on three of the seats that will have open bottoms. They will install the vents in the front seatback once they cover the back of it with white vinyl.

Jon,
Nice Spatter Paint Job! My Rub Rail is about 75% complete. What a difference old school "SOS Pads" and Westley's Tire Brite made of the Rub Rail. Once complete, then it is time to start using my Portal Cable, set at low speed, on the Gel Coat. I might be starting the process this afternoon, or for sure by tomorrow since it is finally warming up. I can believe what a difference it has made in the finish, by just taking my time and following the process of returning the finish back to a luster!

Hi all,

I realized I hadn't updated this in a while.

I received my finished seats a couple weeks ago, and they look absolutely stunning! I can't wait to see what they look like in the finished boat. They match the original pattern exactly and far exceeded my expectations! I think I do have them arranged wrong here though.



With the cart done to hold the boat when flipped over, I was ready:



First step was to design the mechanism to lift it and tilt it. The chain lifts simply hook to 4x4s spanned across the rafters. It lifted the boat slow and steady, which worked well. Lifted it up off the trailer, pulled trailer out, kept lifting, rotated it onto cart, then let it down.











And that's where it sits now. I finally got the lower unit seals and water pump replaced on the pontoon so I could get it in the water. Now I can get back to the Cutter again.