TOPIC: Help wiring the switch for nav lights

Sorry if I post this in the wrong place. I didn't see a seperate electrical forum.
Can someone help me rewire the switch in the picture. Is it 2 reds and green or red/white/green?
I am assuming it's a 2 position switch. Do both powers go to busbar? where does green go?
When I get a new stern light-what's the proper way to add that in? thanks

Most Nav light switches are three position MrMitch. Off in the center, down for stern (anchor) light only, or up for both bow nav and stern light on at the same time.

Regardless, the power would likely go into the center connection, and the bow and stern each going to one of the outer terminals. If they are reversed, you could swap them out to make it as described above.

I would use some "liquid electrical tape" on those crimp connectors to help keep corrosion out of them, btw.

thanks! I am just starting to do the wiring, so I will definately seal the crimps. There is a green and black(or brown) wire coming from the bow light-black(brown) spliced to switch and green to ??
BTW-the switch is the pull out type so there must be two positions.

One wire would be power (switched side) and the other is a ground normally. I think it's best not to trust the color codes if you don't know who wired it up originally, many times repairs and splices change the original configuration anyway!

They make push-pull switches in two and three position models as well, just have to check it out and see. A 12V test light comes in really handy on projects like this.

I tried to scan a drawing I made but could not get it to be legible. I'll try to explain how I did mine. I used a STDP switch and the source 12 vt. came from the ignition terminal. On one out terminal of the switch I ran to both the bow and stern light, install a diode allowing current flow between bow to stern lights. and ground both lights. On the 2nd out terminal I ran to the stern light. Wish I could send a diagram. A picture is worth a thousand words.

Opps, DPDT

DPDT = Double Pole Double Throw Switch

For those who don't want to Google it

I can use my main power feed from the battery to the power block as my source of power correct? Then run a wire(what color?) to both lights-where does the diode go? Is it inline? The grounds go to the busbar?

Power can come from the battery positive.

Grounds all have to return to the battery negative.

I will try and find a SPDT Three terminal push pull diagram.
That is what your switch looks like. You can look on the Cole Heerse Switch Site at a 50082.

www.colehersee.com/home/item/cat/141/50082/

You could get power from the ignition switch so it would go off with the key. But with lights you usually want them come on with or with out the ignition on for emergency lighting, that is why I get my power from a direct positive battery source.

Here is a good wiring site.

easyacdc.com/2009/05/05/1876/

Need to make sure you put a fuse in the line from the battery, a fuse block with multiple circuits would be even better. (Fires onboard are a really bad thing!) I agree with littlefin, the only power you want to pull out of the control box (or ignition switch) is to run the gauges.

I'm getting ready to re-wire my project as well. Plan to run a 6 ga. (pair, pos. and neg.) from the battery to the dash with a "main" fuse at the battery on the pos. - 60 amp. 5 circuit fuse panel, and 14 ga. to the lamps, horn, etc....

Here's where I get most of my electrical stuff;
stores.ebay.com/Genuinedealz?_rdc=1
Much cheaper than buying it locally, great service and free shipping! I'm just sayin'...........

fuse fuse fuse fuse fuse... can't stress that enough. it blows my mind how many boats have 0 fuses in them. PLEASE protect yourself, your passengers, and your vessel and put fuses in. i bought a 6 circuit (or is it 8? dang CRS...) fuse block from NAPA for a pretty reasonable price.

i opted for running 10ga wire from the battery to the front of the boat to power all of my lights and such, but i am not running much off of it, either. 2 lights, depth finder and, eventually, a small radio. i would also recommend investing in the marine grade wire for the run from the battery to the front, at the very least. the stuff's expensive, but will last a long time and, more importantly, will be safer (since it's not going to corrode and fall to pieces over time). you may be able to get away with standard wire for the small circuits, since you can probably get to them pretty easy to inspect/replace.

just my 2 cents...
-Chris