TOPIC: 1965 Starcraft - Need Some Advice

Just brought home a gently used 1965 Starcraft "runabout". Something possessed me to buy it even though I know nothing about boats. Interior was gutted, and engine is not running. I'm ordering a manual for the engine (1964 Johnson) and will do a tune up and see if that gets it going. The paint is in good enough shape for now, I'm just going to do a buff/wax and see what that does.

The interior is where I really need some advice. I need the two front seats. I'm not sure if they were back to back, or just single seats. I plan om making a bench seat with storage for the transom area. Also, any opinion on carpet vs. rustoleum pain for the floor? I haven't pulled the floor up, would it be a good idea to do so? Also, there is a gap where the fiberglass is pulling away from the side of the boat inside. What is the best way to repair that? I;m assuming it needs a bilge pump, where would that go?

Please let me know if I posted this in the correct area, or if I need to post in a different section. I did do some research on forums, but most of what I found had to do with paint, or the aluminum boats. I'm not even sure if the boat is a "Runabout"

Thanks in advance for any advice. I'm looking forward to getting this old boat back out on the water!

I attached pics of the floor and the part that is pulling away. I'll post pics of the boat once I make sure I am posting in the correct place.

Thanks!

Gently used! That must be code for--- Man do I like to work on boats.:0

I have a 63 Starcraft Ranger 14' and my seats were back-to-back fold downs. I cant tell where the crack is at. Please post more pics of the crack and whole boat so we can get perspective on what repairs must be done.

Defiantly try and Buff-&-Shine first. This will save you from going insane and trying to burn your new boat in the driveway. Well this doesn't happen to everyone, But enough of us to head caution.

Check the transom before you start anything else. It is the foundation of the boat. If it isn't strong, then read up on how to repair it here, and make the decision on how (or if) to proceed.

You picked a Starcraft that shows you have extremely good taste. That in its self is a good start.

Now quit screwing around and send those pics.

Redbill,
Welcome aboard and this is the correct forum for you question. Your floor isn't pulling away actually. That is from the original construction. If you look real close that's the original paint color in the gap. It's probably just fine unless it moves when you walk by that area, if it doesn't your fine. The checking paint is another matter. You'll need to remove it before painting or it will just check and crack again. You'll also want to check and make sure that the paint isn't lead based. they have test kits at Lowes I think or Home Depot. I would suspect it's lead based which makes it a different issue. If you decide to sand it you'll need a very good respirator, full face even. I had the same problem on my boat, I went the more expensive route but somewhat easier. i used a special stripper that specific for lead paint. It renders it harmless and it looks like paper pulp when scrapped off. It isn't cheap though and I can't remember the exact name of it now. I think the 4 gallon bucket was over $100.

Staying with the deck, is it spongy? Does it move around a lot when you walk on it? If so you'll probably need to remove and replace it. If you have to remove it try to make sure it comes out in one piece so you can use it as a pattern.

As far as floor I went with paint vice carpet since that's what was original. It's up to you but carpet tends to hold water, which is fine as long as the floor is sealed.

Bilge pump depends on if your bilge drains all the way to the back of the boat to the drain plug if you have one. If there isn't a drain plug at the back of the boat then I would definitely put one in.

How is the transom? Is it solid? Does it flex if you lift the lower unit of the motor. If so it's probably rotted and will need replacing.

That's probably enough to go on for now Others will jump in here and give good advice, they've been doing it longer than I have.

Bob

Here is a link to some more pictures:

www.flickr.com/photos/gerriwillis/with/7286865458/

Good call on the lead based paint! I didn't think about that. The floor is pretty good. A little squishy under the transom area. transom is in good shape. As for the gap, it doesn't move - I just assumed it was a crack

The floor has screws holding it in. If I decided to replace, would I just replace that section, or would I need to cut out the whole floor? I do think what is there will be fine for now, but I'm assuming I'll have to replace it one day.

As for buff and polish - I read a bunch of conflicting views on products and buffing equipment - what have you guys been using?

Thanks again for all of the advice! It is greatly appreciated!

Looks like a 14' Starcraft, 40hp longshaft, manual shift Johnson. 99% sure it came with back to back seats. Boat looks good. If the transom is good, keep it good and use a Transom Saver, a bar that supports the lower unit while trailering. That motor is the small block Chevy of its day, made in various hp and rigging combos from the early 50's thru the 70's. OMC dealers still have parts, some NAPA stores and online stores sell Sierra parts. Definitely change the water pump impeller before trying to start the motor. They are rubber and don't like sitting dry for more than a year or two. Use a spark tester to see if it has a fat blue spark. Coils crack over time and may give a weak spark. Change the gear lube in the lower unit for peace of mind. Change all of the fuel lines in the motor to new alcohol proof lines. Alcohol in today's gas breaks down old rubber lines and clogs carbs. If the carb is suspect, rebuild it with a carb kit. This all sounds harder than it really is, but will give you a nice running boat. Until your manual arrives, this may help: web.ebscohost.com/serrc/pdf?sid=d85997d8-0bf4-4426-a23d-90a60979f5d6%40sessionmgr115&vid=5&hid=126

Well, I've had some time to go through it. Started the water impellar replacement.

I have a question about the floor. It is actually really solid except for ons little area (maybe 1ft X 2ft). Is it best to replace the whole floor, or is it fine to do just one section? What about installing a new floor over the existing floor. I've been doing some research, and it seems like everyone just rips out the old floor and replaces the whole thing. I'm assuming that is the best practice, but I was wonding if anyone has tried anything else?

Thanks!!

RedBill,

IF it was me i would rip the floor out altogether & replace the whole works (after investigating the stringers & runners,if you have those in wood, for rot) with MDO plywood. - that makes it a ONE-TIME repair.
just my OPINION.

yours, satx

Got the deck out. To my untrained eye, the stringers only look bad in 2 little spots. I was surprised to see they were hollow. I was also surprised to see there was no foam. Does anyone know if that is normal for this year Starcraft (no foam)? I'm heading out today to get the exterior grade plywood. I guess next steps are to:

1) Repair Stringers by making a fibrglass replica from a mold of the existing ones, and glass in.

2)Put some sort of epoxy over the plywood to make sure it is water tight.

Now, for the queestions about the next steps:

1)Once sealed, and I place the deck back in the boat, I'm assuming it will just stay in place without any fasteeners? Should I use some glue?

2) Do I glass the entire deck? Just the seams where I cut it out? Don't use fiberglass and use something else?

3) Should I add foam? Can I just use something from Home Depot?

Thanks for the help so far! I've been reading for hours on the subject, but there are so many answers and unique ways of tackeling this project, I didn't know if there was any type of "best practice" that most people follow.

Redbill,

See my 68' Daytona TR-17 in the Member Project forum.
Mine looked very similar to yours under the floor.
I did not replace the wood.
I removed all the old rotted wood any way I could.
In some cases I had to slice the stringer lengthwise to remove some pieces that hadn't turned to mush.
I put no wood back, I simply doubled up on the fiberglass.
I used something that looked exactly like what was in there, maybe 1.5 oz. woven roving I think it was called.

I glued and screwed the floor down.
I was worried the two layers of glass wouldn't be thick enough to hold a screw, but it did. It only needed to last long enough for the resin to dry anyway. I also put poly, but no glass on the bottom of the floor just for water proofing.

Those things weren't hollow when they left the factory. Look around and you will find pieces of wood.

I won't advise on the foam, but I didn't use any. My bow seats were meant as flotation.

The entire top of the floor should be glassed in and 3-6 inches up the hull to attach it in a continous piece. Mine took four sheets of plywood, but it was a wide boat.

Get it as clean as possible and wipe it all down with acetone.

I see from your pics that you didn't get all the way to the hull when you removed the floor.

I cut the floor out as close as I dared to the outer hull, then I ground the rest off. It was a long day that day. My new floor went all the way to the outer hull.

I'm not saying you cant fit a new floor in the way you have it now, but I got the entire floor out.