TOPIC: Steering wheel Resto...need help!

I am in the process of restoring the badly damaged original wheel for my 64 Correct Craft. This pic is kind of over-exposed look close the wheel's hub had pcs missing ..



These are pics of the wheel after "rough-in" of the epoxy on the hub and to fill cracks/gaps in the rim...



my question is. Any ideas on how to get the texture in the epoxy repair where the spokes and rim were textured?

A while back, during the "plaster craze", people were making statues and figurines using a latex substance like rubber. You could paint it on the textured part, peel it off, and you would have an exact replica of the texture your looking for. Then put a loose mixture of epoxy on where you want the texture, place the mold over it, and wait 'till the epoy sets up a little. I'm going to have to search and see if I can find that stuff. You could also use a dremel. Very labor intensive, though.

I paused to go on the internet and found www.artmolds.com . They have latex and silicone, Fairly cheap. I hope this helps.

."64." Nice set of boats.. I would try a STIFF , used wall paper glue brush,. almost the same trick guys use to PATTERN the speckled , floor , Zolotone treatment.....Almost also known as a Masonary brush
for water -proofing on basement block.. Push or poke the stiff bristles straight down on the surface. ?

You'll need to make a mold of it- And then work it in to the epoxy putty (I'm assuming that's what you're using?). I have done it this way-

Get some polymer clay from an art supply store. It's sold under the brand names 'Sculpey', 'Fimo', and a few others. Pretty cheap stuff, too- About $1.50 or $2 a pack. Take the clay, and knead in in your hands until it's pliable. Then, form a 'rod' out of it, I'd say about 1/2" or so dia, at least an inch or so long.

Press the end of that into an area of texture that's not damaged, push pretty hard. It shouldn't stick to the wheel, if it's clean. If it does, a little water on the wheel will keep 'em apart.

Then, Bake the clay as directed on the pack. Its something like 325 for 20 mins, if my memory serves me correctly. This causes the clay to harden, through a chemical reaction that's activated by heat. It doesn't 'Dry' like regular clay does.

When you're done, you'll have a tool that you can use like a stamp to stamp the texture into the epoxy putty. Do some experimentation, the putty could stick to the tool, and if it does you'll have to use something to stop that. I've used dry silicon spray lube before, but be careful to clean ALL that off the wheel before you try to paint it

Hopefully these directions are clear- if not, I can try to post a pic

-Andrew

thanks guys!
those are all great ideas! The good thing is the portion of the wheel repair that needs the texture is pretty narrow.

you gave me some place to start experimenting!