TOPIC: Aluma Craft Tangier, transom replacement?

I think this is a 64 Aluma Craft Tangier. The transom had a bow in in from sitting, poorly supported, with a big fat Evinrude Starflite hanging off it. I'm hoping to put a Mer 1000 on there.

I started poking around, and it looks like large areas of the wood core of the transom have degraded to mulch. My question is, how do I get at it? I don't want to mess with the unique molded fins. I pried off the nice fin castings to get a look at the seem.

I've read about guys separating the deck from the hull, but this boat has a nice, rugged, cast aluminum piece strongly bonding the seem. I'm sure I'll wreck it if I try to pry that off.

The splash well impedes access from inside the boat. Do I cut the splash, well out, preserving the integrity of the outside hull of the transom, and then try to glass that back in later? Or, do I cut away the outside of the transom?

Thanks for any suggestions!

I would cut and remove the rear section of the deck or remove the splash well.

Unless you're really good (experienced) at fiberglassing, I would definitely advise splitting the deck off the hull for transom replacement. Not only do you need to consider the aesthetic aspect of the repair, but the structural integrity of the boat may be compromised if not done properly.

I've read about guys separating the deck from the hull, but this boat has a nice, rugged, cast aluminum piece strongly bonding the seem. I'm sure I'll wreck it if I try to pry that off.

There should be screws, rivets, staples, or something similar holding the rub rail channel on. They can be carefully removed or drilled out to allow the metal to be removed in tact. The deck may be 'glassed to the hull in the stern at the transom, one of the oscillating "multi-tools" would make quick work of that.

I believe it's quite probable the transom wood goes all the way across the stern, total access to that area will make the job much more manageable, IMHO.

Just my two cents worth, I think you'll be happier in the long run doing it this way.

Morning Dave,

I know your anxiety about seperating the upper and lowers of your boat. Its looks a lot harder than it actually is. As Mark said. the rubrail will come off somehow. Take a few minutes to study it and take your time taking it off. There are companies that sell rubrail close to what you have. I personally would never cut out the spalhwell to gain access. The resulting repair will leave your boat with a possible weak apot in a vital area. I've used a multi-tool from Harbor Freight to seperate a few boats with great success. I did somewhat of a pictorial step by step on it on my Redfish Shark Capri and listed the two blades for the multi-tool that I needed. The key to the whole thing is patience and, after you get the seam between the two halves separated, a few good friends to help you lay the top aside in a safe place.

By the way, great find. Love the fins and the lines on her. Good luck. Drop me a line if you have trouble getting your hands on a multi-tool. I have a Harbor Freight pretty close to me and they are cheap!

Good luck!

VERY helpful feedback, fellas! Thank you!

I'll look again at that rub rail. I'm convinced that separating the deck from the hull is the way to go.

I have one of those plunge cutter tools you mention, Todd. Great idea! And I read your thread about separating the Redfish. Very helpful!

I'll update after I wade in.
Thanks, again!
-Dave

If it were mine I would split the halves (top, bottom) and go from there. It should be easier to work on too.

hi, i was wondering how you knew this was a 1964? i have two of these and was told that they only made them in 1960-1. maybe some leftovers in 62. but i'm pretty sure by 1964 all hints of those fins were gone from all alumcraft fibergalass and possibly there were NO alumacraft fiberglass boats in 1964 as they began using the name ALPEX for their fiberglass production not long after 1962 or 3.

sometimes with old boats, the first year a state titles boats is given as the manufacturing year if the boat is a used boat at the time that policy gets implemented.

i have seen some post 1961 alumacrafts, trying to pick up a 19 or 20 footer right now and the bow area does have that scooped out look that your tangier does but the transoms are plain jane. somewhere i also saw a 1962 catalog that showed the made the transoms plain looking by then but did retain some of the other contouring.

I don't know for sure that this is a 1964. That's what the registration says. I've had other boats with inaccurate registrations. I'd love to see some photos of your boats and I'd welcome any additional info besides what's available in the library of this site.
-David

my boats are both in needing-total restoration condition. one is reasonably complete. if you have the waffle pattern aluminum glove box cover then you are doing great for ocmpletion. i am missing that on both mine

Yeah, I have the glove box cover, but I wonder if I'm missing a fiberglass panel that ran down each side, referred to as an arm rest?

Okay, I separated the deck from the hull. A challenging task, but clearly the way to go! (thanks, again, for that advice!). Now I see that the plywood goes all the way to the ends and supports the wings. Looks to be 1 1/2 inch thick. 71 inches wide. 20 -22 inches deep. Do I need to use marine plywood? I'm going to have to sandwich some panels and encase it all in epoxy.

Any reason to go thicker than 1 1/2? I think the boat was rated for 80 hp in 1961. I want to put a Merc 1000 on there. They didn't have a 100 hp outboard in 1961. Is that why it was only rated for 80?

Some updates on the transom:

It was like scooping out mulch in some spots, and then difficult to remove the rest, but DEFINATELY ready to be replaced.





I bought two sheets of 8 mm Okoume Marine Plywood and cut 4 panels, then laminated them together to get the 1 1/4 inch depth I needed

nicely done!

Very nice.

I just obtained a Tangier. Needs a full restoration. Pretty sure I will have to repalce the transom too.

Andreas

My Tangier has "W368" stamped into an aluminum casting on the starboard rear side. Does yours have something like this? Any serial number or hull ID on your boat?

Andreas