TOPIC: Question on Paint Removel

Evening All,

Sorry about not being around much lately. I'm carrying 21 credits this semester as well as working three days a week. I will be so glad come graduation day this fall.

My question involves a tool from our favorite place, that's right - Harbor Freight. I noticed this when I received the latest sales flyer and it looks promising to me. I was wondering if anyone had any experience with one. The reviews show it did a good job removing paint from wood without scarring it so I'm thinking it might do well on fiberglass.

The tool costs $29 and would also no doubt need a few replacement disks/wheels/whatever it uses to get the job done. If it works well and would only involve an investment of about $50, I think its a worthwhile investment.

As always, I value the opinions of the gang on here. Like I told John Gibson when I saw him, the group here are some of the nicest people I have ever encountered.

Take care all!

Todd

P. S. Here's the link to the tool at HF's website.

www.harborfreight.com/electric-paint-remover-65990.html

Here's a pic of the tool, too!

After working in the woodworking industry for 41 years, I might be able to help. Harbor Freight is not bad. It depends on the application. Is the sander hook and loop or self adhesive? Also, the quality may not last. It might be fine for a couple of weeks, but then it will break. My opinion, is to get a 1/4 sheet palm sander. You wont have to spend more money on specialty sandpaper. Makita, Dewalt, Porter Cable, all make good ones. Ryobi a little cheaper, but, still as good.
Use liquid paint remover to get the bulk off, first. Follow directions. You will waste money on sandpaper if you don't. When the bulk is off, I recommend 120 "C" grit. It's heavier backed paper. Garnet or aluminum oxide(the white stuff). Next, would be 220. 320 after that. You can go to 400 wet and use a process called blocking. Long strokes with a blocking tool will give professional results. Keep you blocking wet. Then the rest is epoxy primer and paint. After you prime, you can block again with 600. Good luck. Show some pics. Keep me posted.

I posted then went to the site. Personally, I would not use that. It looks like it will dig into your glass. Dude, he was using it on metal. I know liquid paint removers are messy, but, it does get the bulk off.

I bought the same tool from HF...I have a wood Yellow Jacket that I wanted to remove the bottom paint off of. After going through 4 pads and spending an hr to clean a 2' X 3' area I took the tool back and went with paint stripper

CraigLam wrote:

After working in the woodworking industry for 41 years, I might be able to help. Harbor Freight is not bad. It depends on the application. Is the sander hook and loop or self adhesive? Also, the quality may not last. It might be fine for a couple of weeks, but then it will break. My opinion, is to get a 1/4 sheet palm sander. You wont have to spend more money on specialty sandpaper. Makita, Dewalt, Porter Cable, all make good ones. Ryobi a little cheaper, but, still as good.
Use liquid paint remover to get the bulk off, first. Follow directions. You will waste money on sandpaper if you don't. When the bulk is off, I recommend 120 "C" grit. It's heavier backed paper. Garnet or aluminum oxide(the white stuff). Next, would be 220. 320 after that. You can go to 400 wet and use a process called blocking. Long strokes with a blocking tool will give professional results. Keep you blocking wet. Then the rest is epoxy primer and paint. After you prime, you can block again with 600. Good luck. Show some pics. Keep me posted.

Here I will add...Do not buy cheap paper. The paper that discount stores will not last 1/2 as long as a good paper

Smart move.

Glad to hear you're keeping your priorities straight Todd, keep up the good work there. The "end" is in sight, and I promise you will NEVER regret putting your education first!

There's another recent thread on paint stripper here, if you choose to go that route. It mentions Citristrip and another brand that work well, just a different kind of mess involved.

Personally, I got tired of the 1/4 sheet sanders (cheap models) loosing grip on the sandpaper, and switched to the HF (all I could afford!) 5" random orbital. What a difference! This sander makes much quicker work of the task, and with a lot less hassle too. I still have to devise an adapter to hook my shop vac to the dust collector, but it works great. As you said they're having a "blow-out sale" right now, I'm headed back over there Sat morning for some "supplies" myself.
www.harborfreight.com/5-inch-random-orbital-palm-sander-93431.html
Very true advise on the sandpaper, you definitely "get what you pay for", IMHO Keep us posted on your progress.

Morning Mark and Gang,

Another day back at the books. I swear some of these profs believe their class is the ONLY class anyone takes. Hopefully my eyes don't wear out from all of the reading they require.

Thanks for all the enouragement and the replies to my questions about the tool. It was just an idea that I thought might be feasible. I agree whole-heartedly about the quality of paper. I invested in a really good DeWalt RO sander a couple of years back this is still serving me well. I buy my pads bulk through a friend from MSC. The saving per pad and having a stock on hand is well worth it. They come in a good quality, carboard box that stores them very well. I will say the hook and loop makes life a breeze when the pads wear out.

Again, thanks a million for the support and comments. Take care and let's get ready to get wet! Of course, I'll have to do it between 2 and 4 in the morning when I'm not writing some paper or researching from a drastically overpriced text!

hi todd ,you have gotten some good advise here,but may i add a couple of things,like the multitool you have ,can use any hook and loop sand paper,buy it in any shape,and cut it to fit,i have found that using it may take a Little time,but you wont get flat spots as long as it keeps moving.
you can also use sanding blocks/pads with it,just lay them on the boat then push down on the pad with the head of the multitool,it works great on uneven surfaces,and as you work with the pad move the tool around from one area of the block to the other,even flipping sides,its a whole lot better then hand sanding the hard to reach spots,john

Good to see you back around, Todd... I can relate- My last semester in school I had 24 credit hours AND worked 30-40 hours a week! It doesn't leave much time for anything else- But once it's over it is well worth it.

I like random orbit sanders a lot better than I do sheet sanders. They are far more aggressive at removing paint- Especially with coarse paper. I just had to replace my sander, I had a craftsman that last me almost 10 years (and a few dozen boats!), but it died on me. I probably could have had it serviced, but given the age of it, and that it used self adhesive paper, I decided to replace it.

I went with this Porter-Cable model-

www.lowes.com/pd_241413-70-382_0__?productId=3275809&Ntt=orbital+sander&pl=1¤tURL=%2Fpl__0__s%3FNtt%3Dorbital%2Bsander&facetInfo=

It was about $50- But I REALLY like it. It does a great job, is fairly light, and fits well in the hand. The best part is the dust collection, though. I hook it up to my Shop-Vac, which has a HEPA filter in it, and the sanding is virtually dust free.

It uses the hook and look pads, which I like better than the stick on. Buy good quality- I buy the Gator Grit ones at Lowes- and buy them in bulk, and you'll save a lot of money. Cheap paper isn't a bargain at all- It just doesn't last.

I also use 3M SandBlaster Auto Surface Conditioning Discs for serious removal- They will go right down to the 'glass if needed, with very minimal impact on the glass. They don't make them any more, but you can get them on E-Bay.... 3M 03075 is what you want to search for. You also need an adapter, which the same seller has. They are only $3 for a three pack, and work very well.

-Andrew

andrew i have the same porter cable,only older,its been my favorite sander for many years,from house projects to boats .john

I have hthe same one also. Burned one up doing my Owens and got a Dealt but didn't like it. Too loud, so got another porter cable.

I have hthe same one also. Burned one up doing my Owens and got a Dealt but didn't like it. Too loud, so got another porter cable.

I have hthe same one also. Burned one up doing my Owens and got a Dealt but didn't like it. Too loud, so got another porter cable.

Yep, have that one too! I also killed my Craftsman but from being bounced off the floor one too many times. Actually still runs but the pad is shot. The porter cable i great and I also hook it up to my shop vac, works great!

Bob

Todd, as far as sand paper goes, There are two types of man made. Aluminum oxide and silicon carbide. Silicon carbide is thee best. It's costly, but it will outlast garnet and aluminox 3 to 1 or better. Make sure all you paint has been stripped off. You don't want to waste money on sandpaper that's clogged with paint. When it comes time to "clean" the sandpaper, just smack it a few times to clean it or use a stiff bristle plastic wire brush, not metal. Your pretty much good to go. Alot of great advice.