TOPIC: Interior Paint and Rubrail Insert

Looking to paint the inside of my Silvercraft. It was painted a light gray, but most of it has worn off. I was thinking of using Rustoleum Marine Topside paint, but could I use their regular paint instead? Price difference around here is about $4 a quart. I don't have a compressor to spray, so I am looking to roll and brush. The gray they offer looks too dark, so I'm thinking of white.

Also, does anyone have a source for rubrail inserts? I've checked out Wefco, but want to compare prices/colors. Thanks, Paul.

I'd recommend usning the regular Rustoleum Oil Based pant and add some acrylic enamel hardener. You can get the hardener at Tractor supply made by Valspar or At Advanced Auto Acme Finish One. Either one works great 2oz per quart. You can mix some white in with the grey to lighten it up a come close to matching what you want.

I looked everywhere local for the "Valspar " hardener and found it at Amazon.com I'm sold on the Rustolium - Took the advice of the Rustolium thread and thinned with Acetone and Hardener and my hull came out great.

Hi Paul, I found some rubrail insert by the foot (instead of having to buy a whole roll) on ebay, pretty close to the original for my boat;
Timely advise on the paint stuff guys, (Flamingo and Rick), Thanks.

I painted inside of my boat with white thinking of keeping the heat down in the sun while fishing. It was so brilliantly white that it blinded me. If I do it again it will be a dull. I actually prefer the dirt in a way.

Try Florida Marine Liquidators in Perry, Florida. They buy out dealers and have different styles of rub rail and inserts from time to time really cheap by the foot. I paid $1.00 ft for G-3 insert.

Get their phone no from 411, as I don't have it.

They also have many props and a lot of other boat hardware.

Thanks for all the advise - this site is a great resource!

Bham-Rick wrote;

my hull came out great.

It sure did Rick! You sprayed it on though, right? Any tips for the mix when doing it "roll and tip"?
Savage II wrote:

I paid $1.00 ft for G-3 insert.

I thought I got a good deal until I read that Jim!
Robert-L wrote:

It was so brilliantly white that it blinded me. If I do it again it will be a dull.

I appreciate the info Robert, think I'll go with semi-gloss or flat for the interior. I never thought about the glare, good advise.
MyFlamingo wrote:

Either one works great 2oz per quart. You can mix some white in with the grey to lighten it up a come close to matching what you want.

Good info, thanks.

Paul you've been holding out on us, c'mon and show us what you're working on!

It was a spray job Mark and I helped ( said in my best little girl "hamburger helper" voice).

Melanie

You're a multi-talented lady, Melanie! It sure turned out nice. "Shake N Bake", I always thought? (But I'm wrong more than right anymore, tee hee.)

Nope you are correct sir. I was thinking Shake-n-Bake when I started don't know what happened.

Helped ?? You sprayed it, And did a great job - all I did was was the grunt work, Our mix was 1QT.High Gloss white , 8 Oz. Acetone and 4 Oz. hardner Melanie is Multi talented did the electrical on my trailer and sprayed that also Props and Kudo's to Melanie

With the thought of "it's only paint" this is what I did to the Skagit to freshen it up for this past season. The deck is the same aqua color that I used in my creative splatter paint concoction on the seats and bulkhead. I used web paint available from Krylon, comes in black,silver,gold, and white.Small cans but does cover a large area. So far it's held up and hides a lot of defects.

www.krylon.com/products/webbing_spray

Mark -

I've been working on the boat for awhile. Not much time or extra funds, but I'm getting there. I had a thread going on the Disco board:

www.fiberglassics.com/glassic-forums/15-the-70s-disco-fiber/16842-75-silvercraft-15.html#35246

My latest work has been wet sanding/polishing the gel coat and painting the step pad frames. Next is painting the inside of the hull, rub rail insert and new seats.

I also bought a windshield, but it's pretty rough. It may just end up being a learning piece how to sand/buff acrylic until I find one in better shape.

Sorry I forgot about your project Paul, I remember it now that you posted the thread. (I'm worried about my memory loss here lately!) Dave (CC1000) has some NOS windshields he'll sell, may be an option for you. Not sure what size would fit your boat, you may need to throw a tape measure across the gunnels to see if his will fit.

Very cool effect on the splatter/webbing paint Melanie, I like the way it turned out! Most recently Cal did something similar on the interior of his Herters, I think the first one I saw was Brian (Crosbyboat) and the DC Powercat. I'll need something that hides imperfections, for sure. I was thinking about loading up a paint brush with the contrast color and doing my best Joe Cocker imitation, but this looks much better!

lmao ....Joe Cocker was a real card. hard to imagine him painting.lol

Maybe this sounds funny but I have used the old splatter paint you used to have in car trunks. That stuff was tough. I wonder if you can still get it. It also had a little texture to it. When we put on new quarter panels back then you had to put new splatter paint back inside too.

Can't you see me singing "I get by with a little help from my friends" Ron? LOL

I rember that stuff, think it's called Zolatone now, Bob? I was thinking about the trunk of my old Chevy when I saw it first, remember a thread way back about it here.
www.tcpglobal.com/autobodydepot/zolatone20.aspx?gclid=CNCShLC23qsCFYXu7QodVxttOQ

I have not used it since the early 80's but it was good stuff. I got mine for free because I had worked at a Davis Buick, Cadillac. I worked in the body and collision shop. I did everything from body, frame pulling body panels, rebuilding body panels, glass and radiator repair. I loved it there was just no money in it. Back then a three year old car had massive holes in them. LOL

Thanks Mark. I would describe my technique more along the lines of Will Farrel's "need more cowbell" rather than Joe Cocker's flailing arms and hands. After painting the base white I purchased sample containers of 3 contrasting colors at Lowes,red,black,and bayside blue.These samples are just a couple bucks a piece. Starting with the red I dipped a 3" HF chip brush( my drum stix) lightly into the red jar and then tapped the brush against a short piece of copper tubing(my cowbell) varying the angle and amount of striking force as well as the amount of paint loaded on the brush to create the desired pattern.Ditto for the blue and black colors. Of course I used a practice piece before actually attempting on the boat. Honestly it had to grow on me before heading for the boat.It's one of those things you either hate or like. The transom is done the same style as the deck.
Eastwood's still carries trunk splatter paint but I deemed it too dark for my taste.

Melanie

Ok Here's my recommended formula for Rustoleum Paint for Roll n' Roll and for Spraying.

This Should yield one THIN coat on a 14-16 foot FIBERGLASS boat hull.

For aluminum boats, Acid wash the boat (lots of guys just use 50/50 mix of white vinegar and water) then use a Self Etching Primer. I like SEM's Self Etching Primer, and apply it on ALL bare aluminum spots and then coat the entire boat with Rustoleum's' Bare Metal Primer.




If you have Deep sides you may need to adjust the amount of Paint you buy. I recommend Rustoleum's Topside Primer. IF your boat is NOT left in the water for MORE than 3-4 days at a time, this will work fine. This is NOT for boats left in the marina for the season.

This is for Roll n' Roll Application
Final sand with 180 grit and wipe down with acetone.
Two coats of Primer. Roll n' Roll technique is the same. Thin coats!!!
2 cups Paint
1/4 cup of ACETONE or if the temp is over 80 degrees use Mineral Spirits
1 oz of Hardener (1/8 cup/2Tablespoons)(Sold @ Tractor Supply Stores) Or you can use the Acme Finish One Medium Hardener sold at Advanced Auto.



Wet roller with paint an roll out about 4-6 sqare feet. If you can HEAR the paint (Sticky Sound)you are rolling too long. Put the first roller in a Plastic bag and use another roller. wet it out but wring out almost all of the paint and then Re-roll the area you just painted. Use a very LIGHT stroke and the paint should lay down with NO Bubbles!. Put this roller in the bag and use the other roller again. Repeat this process untill the boat is painted. Always do the re-roll with a damp roller with very little paint in it and LISTEN. You will hear the sound that lets you know when it's time to stop. It's kind of a sticky sound. Very LIGHT rolling on the "Re-Roll"


For Spraying.
Final sand and wipe down with acetone.
Two coats of Primer. Use HVLP spray gun with 1.2mm Tip. Thin coats!!!

1 qt Rustoleum Professional Oil Based paint
1 1/2 cups of Acetone 1/4 cup of Mineral Spirits (In High Temps use ONLY 1 1/2 cups of Mineral Spirits or substitute Acrylic Enamel High Temp Reducer sold at some Auto Supply stores. I used Acme Finish 1.)
2oz of Hardener (1/4 cup/4Tablespoons) (NOTE: Only add Hardener to the amount of Paint that you will use in an 8hr period.) DO NOT use after this 8hr period.

This yields two coats of Paint.
Shoot first coat in the morning.
Wait 4-5 hours.
Wet sand with ScotchBrite Pad LIGHTLY to knock down any nubs or bugs.
Dry.
Tack cloth off with Mineral Spirits.
Dry.
Shoot second Coat.
Let dry over night
Repeat wet sand and Tack cloth
Shoot 3rd and 4th coat if needed.

HINT: If you want a COLOR that you cannot find, then you can use Acrylic Artists OIL paint from any Art supply store that you buy in tubes. Google "How to mix paint for (color you want) paint. You can get ANY Color in the Rainbow and it works GREAT!!!!

Great tutorial Flamingo (as always), Thank You!

Thanks for the help Flamingo!

Trunk paint and all other "splater" paints I've used are water soluble, be careful.

A good option is Interlux Bilgekote www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=119 Comes in grey or white. The how-2s www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/document.do?docId=314&title=Painting+Bilges+with+Interlux