TOPIC: Bottom paint failed

Hi

I bought a beautifully restored Glasspar Sport Lido a few years ago. I tied it to the dock for a few months, and when I pulled it out, I fould that the wetted surfaces were all blistered and discolored. All I can remember from the previous owner is that he used a 1 part epoxy marine paint.

I'm considering masking off the bad area, abn using a paint remover, then leaving the affected areas bare. A stripe may be painted at the discontinuity. What do you think?

Also, this boat hits about 30 with the Mercury Classic 50. Will it handle a 75 Scott do you think? I have a couple. I think I'll introduce myself and put that second part in a second post.

Paul

Welcome Aboard ..Nice looking Glasspar .Ild probaully stick with the Merc 500 .

Most runabouts weren't left tied at the dock for days or months. The paint and possibly the glass are designed to be used and then pulled out of the water at the end of a day or so.

I would probably strip the entire hull and re coat with one color. A boot strip won't look that great imho.

If you are going to leave it in the water I would suspect that you will need an epoxy barrier coat.

Nice looking boat!

If you're willing to strip part of it, might as well do the whole thing. In my opinion, of course... if you're trying to keep the original look.

Wouldn't be difficult at all to pull the motor off, flip it upside down(several strong, sturdy types will make quick work of it) give it a good prep and apply another type of paint.

I'd recommend a good quality anti-fouling paint if it will be in wet storage for any length of time over maybe a couple days.

That boat should have much issue with a 75(given that the boat is structurally sound). Surely will be PLENTY zippy!

I think you need to re do the bottom with something that likes to dunked in water for long periods. I like your windshield.

Did Glasspar use the same hull on alot of thier boats and just put different Decks on them ?? That hull looks alot like my Delmar .

bobo wrote:

Did Glasspar use the same hull on alot of thier boats and just put different Decks on them ?? That hull looks alot like my Delmar .

I think this hull was sold with a number of names, including Marathon, and Lido among others. It is 14 feet. The previous owner put a heavier taller transom on it.

I know that if the hull was not painted it would definately be up to being in the water.

I didn't buy a place on the water so that I could trailer, though. Thats much is for sure.

bobo wrote:

Did Glasspar use the same hull on alot of thier boats and just put different Decks on them ?? That hull looks alot like my Delmar .

The early Avalons shared the same hull as the Del Mar. The Lido was basically a mini-me version.

JerrfyLube wrote:

bobo wrote:

Did Glasspar use the same hull on alot of thier boats and just put different Decks on them ?? That hull looks alot like my Delmar .

The early Avalons shared the same hull as the Del Mar. The Lido was basically a mini-me version.

Ya they looked alike But then Sportlido said it was a 14 foot where the Delmar is just shy of 16 .That is a sharp Lido .. If you want to keep it close to the water You got space for one of those boat lifts ??

Is it true that bottom paint should not be expected to stand up to lake water? If so, bottom paint certainly ruined this boat for me.

I have so far been able to leave the unpainted boats in the water as long as I want without problems worse than a bathtub ring. I think the C-15 sail boat has been tied to the dock for more than a month right now. I had an ugly old Glastron 140 next to the Sport Lido the whole time with no ill effects. I'm not looking to buy a lift. Nowhere to put it in the winter, plus too much hassle and expense.

I guess in the future I will stay away from bottom paint, unless I can find something that works.

Here is what happened, it can also happen with gel coat. Paint a gel are permiable to moisture. That is it won't pass liquid water but water molecules will make their way through these materials, this is known as permiability. Paint for the most part is very permiable so wehn the moisture works it's way to the paint /gel interface it lifts the paint off. This can also happen to gelcoat as it is permiable as well but not as much as paint is so it takes longer. The lifting process is also a little different once the moisture gets through the gel to the interface of the gel and the laminate, the water reacts with uncured materials, which there are alwys trace amounts of to varying degrees and this reaction outgases so that is what pushes the gel off the laminate forming the blister.
Generally there will be no paint manufacturer that would recomend their paints to be used below the waterline for this reason, unless they have specificly designed it to do so. Again some are more resistant. Generally catalized products are denser. The air dry varieties actually wind up with micro size pores that the volitiles will leave behind as they migrate to the surface and evaporate hastening the moisture getting underneath.
I use Imron, granted most of the time the boats are only wet during use but I have left them in for a week at a time with no issues. I'm sure if left in longer the same thing would happen as you experienced. A regular air dried paint would blister in a few days, they will disapear if boat dries out but paint really is not bonded anymore in these areas.
There are less permiable materials available now. They are commonly know as "barrier coats" this is what you need to use if you are going to leave it in. There is a white color one available (Interlux) so maybe you can use this with your idea of doing the bottom and use a boot stripe. The visual quality is not as good as with typical finish paints, that is the trade off, but below the water line it would not be noticeable. Regular anti growth bottom paints will not blister off but they will slowly disapear, that is how they work, they exfoliate constantly exposing new paint sloughing off the outer layer where thee growth is attached. Look at some ocean boats tafter a few years with out a repaint, they look worn off, this is why.
So either use a barrier coat directly over the gel or remove the boat from the water every few days to let the paint dry out.
Randy

sorry to tell you, it doesnt matter if its a $500 glass rowboat or a $50,000 yacht if your going to leave your boats in the water as I have for done with many of my boats & yachts for over 30 years of boating, you will get blistering in the glass or paint. there is NO magic product, there are only products that will slow the process

Well, thanks for the excellent advice. I guess I'll look at the "Barrier Coat" option. What yould be a good way to remove the damaged coating and to prep for the new coating, and what barrier coat products are suggested?

You have to get back to the gel. Hard to say what to use without seeing it. Stripper would work, it may go fast where paint has started to bubble.
If you turn boat over, mask the sides beware stripper under tape will attack the adhesive. You might wantot stay a few inches away from the waterline and sand to the boot line by hand.
Interlux makes barrier coat for such reasons.
Randy

1 part urethane if left in the water will start to blister in 3 days. The longer it sits, the worse it gets. It looks like you have a white hull. Sand it and repaint it with Interlux VC Performace Epoxy. My 18DC was in for nearly 3 weeks and did fine. It's a 2 part epoxy paint, and hard as nails. It can be wet sanded and buffed to look like gelcoat. Just ask Frank. It's a little pricey, but you get what you pay for.

This has been an interesting thread.