TOPIC: How Do I Fix a Bent Skeg?

That's pretty much it. My Dad has a nice little mid-'70s 85 horse Mercury with the skeg leaned over a bit like it got pushed sideways in the mud or something. It's a nice gentle curved bend that kicks the bottom of the skeg off to the right about an inch at the bottom.

It really doesn't seem to effect the performance, it clipped along very nicely this weekend without wanting to wander, but it is one of those cosmetic things that bugs you.

I never tried to fix one but I'm thinking it might be a good idea to find a donor for the case. Even if it gets straight will it be as strong as original.

I had one for years that way and it worked fine .And if looks are the thing When its in the water ya cant see it ..And ya know soon as you pay out a couple hundred to fix it Bang youll hit something again .I tried to straighten one once and it cracked and broke ..Just my 2 cents
Larry

TRY THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK!

I've straightened a few mildly bent skegs this way and haven't busted one yet... It should work if your skeg isn't cracked.

Get two relatively heavy hammers, or a hammer and a solid steel backing block (heavier than the hammer). Lay the heavier of the hammers against the side you want to bend TOWARDS. Hit the other side with the other hammer, directly in line with the backing hammer. Start lightly at first, lots of moderate tapping, moving fore and aft around the bent area, working your way from the bullet to the skeg tip as it straightens. If it's not bending, hit it harder. Again, better to do lots of small taps than one big swing. The skeg is cast aluminum and doesn't like to bend much. The backer absorbs the shock of the blow and prevents you from knocking the skeg clean off. I find it easier if the unit is either tilted up and I am looking straight on the skeg, or if its off the motor entirely. Makes it easier to sight the bent area. I've straightened skegs, AV plates and cast cowlings this way.

I would NOT used this method on old Johnrude split gearcases. If your skeg does end up breaking, have a prop shop weld on a new one - skegs are routinely replaced.

- Scott

Chinewalker wrote:

TRY THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK!

I've straightened a few mildly bent skegs this way and haven't busted one yet... It should work if your skeg isn't cracked.

Get two relatively heavy hammers, or a hammer and a solid steel backing block (heavier than the hammer). Lay the heavier of the hammers against the side you want to bend TOWARDS. Hit the other side with the other hammer, directly in line with the backing hammer. Start lightly at first, lots of moderate tapping, moving fore and aft around the bent area, working your way from the bullet to the skeg tip as it straightens. If it's not bending, hit it harder. Again, better to do lots of small taps than one big swing. The skeg is cast aluminum and doesn't like to bend much. The backer absorbs the shock of the blow and prevents you from knocking the skeg clean off. I find it easier if the unit is either tilted up and I am looking straight on the skeg, or if its off the motor entirely. Makes it easier to sight the bent area. I've straightened skegs, AV plates and cast cowlings this way.

I would NOT used this method on old Johnrude split gearcases. If your skeg does end up breaking, have a prop shop weld on a new one - skegs are routinely replaced.

- Scott

I had a bent skeg on a 2007 E-TEC. I went onto the E-TEC owners forum and got basically this same advice. The hammers should be rubber mallets. Easy to find and cheap at HC or Lowes. It worked beautifully on my motor and would have been a very expensive repair if I had broken it. Instead of taking big huge wacks at the the skeg, hold one mallet against one side and just start giving it a few taps on the bent side. You'll get a feel for how much force you need to use after a few swings. Again, do it at your own risk.

Chinewalker wrote:

TRY THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK!

I've straightened a few mildly bent skegs this way and haven't busted one yet... It should work if your skeg isn't cracked.

Get two relatively heavy hammers, or a hammer and a solid steel backing block (heavier than the hammer). Lay the heavier of the hammers against the side you want to bend TOWARDS. Hit the other side with the other hammer, directly in line with the backing hammer. Start lightly at first, lots of moderate tapping, moving fore and aft around the bent area, working your way from the bullet to the skeg tip as it straightens. If it's not bending, hit it harder. Again, better to do lots of small taps than one big swing. The skeg is cast aluminum and doesn't like to bend much. The backer absorbs the shock of the blow and prevents you from knocking the skeg clean off. I find it easier if the unit is either tilted up and I am looking straight on the skeg, or if its off the motor entirely. Makes it easier to sight the bent area. I've straightened skegs, AV plates and cast cowlings this way.

I would NOT used this method on old Johnrude split gearcases. If your skeg does end up breaking, have a prop shop weld on a new one - skegs are routinely replaced.

- Scott

I had a bent skeg on a 2007 E-TEC. I went onto the E-TEC owners forum and got basically this same advice. The hammers should be rubber mallets. Easy to find and cheap at HC or Lowes. It worked beautifully on my motor and would have been a very expensive repair if I had broken it. Instead of taking big huge wacks at the the skeg, hold one mallet against one side and just start giving it a few taps on the bent side. You'll get a feel for how much force you need to use after a few swings. Again, do it at your own risk.

I straightened one by using a heavy 'C' clamp. Put a piece of flat iron on each side of the skeg, put the clamp on and gently and slowly tighten while lightly tapping with a hammer on the flat iron.
I just happen to have these things around my garage but if you don't I would try the two hammer approach.

Or like Larry said, keep it in the water.