TOPIC: How do I get the steering wheel off its shaft?

I've removed the nut and squirted some Gibbs penetrating oil into the keyway a few times but I still can't get the wheel pried off the shaft. I can't get a wheel puller on it because there's not enough clearance between it and the trim flange. And it's a plastic wheel, if I can get the thick wheel puller jaws on it, they'll probably just rip up the edge of the plastic wheel hub instead of pulling it off.

I have tried prying with a thin prybar while beating on the end of the shaft but nothing moves.

Hey Elliott, here's a tip that Rich_V174SS posted on CGOAMN about taking that steering wheel off;

To take off the steering wheel loosen the nut so it's flush with the end of the shaft, do not remove the nut. While pulling hard on the rim of the wheel whack the nut/shaft with a very heavy hammer and the wheel should "pop" free from the shaft, the nut will stop it from flying off and hitting you in the face. The nut also prevents the end of the shaft from getting damaged by the hammer.

You may need to get someone else to smack the shaft while you're pulling up on the wheel.
(Somebody here may have posted the same procedure, but that one stuck in my head for some reason!?) Something about wedging your feet against the floor, and prying up with your knees while you smack the end of the steering shaft?

EDIT: FOUND IT!

I to have found steering wheels stuck on there tapered shafts more often than not. I have tried to remove the steering cable pulley system from the rear but have never been able to. If the steering wheel is stuck I have found the back side is stuck also. The rear pulley system attached to the steering wheel shaft is white metal and can be broken very easily with a wheel puller.

What I have done is to soak the shaft with your lubricant of choice. Remove the nut holding the steering wheel on. Clean it up and reinstall so that the top of the threaded shaft is 1/8" below the top of the nut. Then I stand between the back of the steering wheel and dash board with my back to the bow. Using my legs to put as much EVEN pressure on the back of the steering wheel spokes as I can, attempting to pushing the wheel off the tapered shaft. I have even gone as far to place pieces of cardboard between my legs the wheel spokes so my legs were not brused. Now I take a chisel sharpened to a point placed in the center of the top of the threaded steering wheel shaft and hit it with a heavy hammer as I push against the back of the wheel with my legs. Every stuck steering wheel I have had has come off using this procedure. The sharp chisel will leave a indentation of about 1/8" diameter and 1/8" deep in the top of the shaft. I have found this not to be enough to deform the threads and you have the nut in place to insure that the threads are not deformed.

A few cautions: As Bruce stated the steering wheel can be quite fragile. So when you apply pressure with your legs you want to do it evenly to the spokes as close to the center of the wheel as practical. As example if you were to apply pressure to the back of the wheel by leaning into the top of the wheel it may crack. I have found a sharp chisel to work very well. A flat chisel tends to mushroom out the top of the shaft deforming the threads although the nut is still in place. I have started with light taps/hits on the chisel working up to really smacking the son of a gun. Every single wheel has come off with no damage to the wheel or the threaded shaft. In some instances I needed a two pound hammer as a nail hammer would not do it.

Hows that for a explanation!!! (possibly a little annal??)

Greg Anderson

tried simultaneous prying with bars between the wheel hub and trim flange and pounding on the shaft (brass drift & 2lbs sledge) but still nothing moving, just prybars slipping out each time it's whacked.

I'd like to have kept the wheel because of its Glastrom medallion but the exposed plastic of its circumference has deteriorated over the years. I'll have to find another wheel to put on the Teleflex (push-pull) system I'll be putting in, but first I need to get this apart.

sounds like you may need some heat. Heat up the shaft, then do the hammer trick. You may need to brace the area around the dash to get use of the hammer more.

tey1967 wrote:

sounds like you may need some heat. Heat up the shaft, then do the hammer trick.

n0ukf wrote:

And it's a plastic wheel, ...

Only a tiny portion of the hub is metal.

Yup, just heat the spindle and bushing. You could try a flat ended tool in the end of an air chisel on the spindle while you pull.

And melt/burn the plastic part of the hub.

Make sure what ever you do Keep that Center nut threaded on that shaft some ..Youll end up pulling harder and harder on it and when you least exspect it the thing will just let louse .If that nut isnt on there Youll Whail your self right in the face with it .I like my teeth ...L.O.L..Almost lost them once doing that .

Finally got it off, Dad had an air chisel with a blunt point. The threads still deformed so that it was work backing the nut off with a socket.

Now I need to decide whether to find another wheel to put on the teleflex or try to fix this one. The plastic has been severely weathered where there were no metal covers.


As I said, I'd like to use the Glastron medalion on whatever wheel I end up using.

tey1967 wrote:

...try a flat ended tool in the end of an air chisel on the spindle while you pull.

This is the method I have used. I like a "Spray" brand product called "Nuts Off". You have to look for it. I get mine at Franklin Truck Parts in L.A.; the auto stores have stopped carrying the good stuff.

FYI: The flat ended bit in the air chisel is called an air hammer

Vibration and heat work well in stuck situations. Personally I've never used heat on a press fitting or spline situation. That's usually for rusted thing's.

We didn't have a hammer bit for it but a blunted chisel. I had been spraying Gibbs penetrating oil in there from time to time. Heat works if you're not trying to heat something that is mostly plastic.

Once the wheel came off with a combination of air-hammering and prying, I noticed that one end of the taper was rusted.

Now I have to strip weathered plastic off down to good plastic. A drill bit seems to work good as a mild rotary rasp for this. Then I can start building it back up with Bondo Easy Finish Black Flexible Part & Bumper Repair (I wish they had a white version too).

Remove the centre piece of the steering wheel (may need a screwdriver to pop it off) and the retaining nut is behind it. Remove the nut and it should just pull out. If its stiff try rocking it from side to side while pulling.

I'd remove the wheel any way I could and then ditch the whole nine yards except for the chrome bezel, find another wheel in the Glassifieds or on Ebay and replace the steering cable and gearbox with a Teleflex system...a reasonable price to pay for beauty, reliability, peace of mind and no mental anguish.