TOPIC: Antique and Classic Outboard Motor Paint & Decals

Was browsing around some of my saved sites.

www.nymarine.ca/index.html

Peters stuff is some of the best stuff out there

thats where we were going to ge our motor decals but we waited too long ,hes closed,so im going to the sign company that did our other lettering the show is friday,john

well i was going to spray my lower unit with cloud white today but i was unsure of the prep work. i'll wait now to after the show as i find out what to do. ron

john-gibson wrote:

thats where we were going to ge our motor decals but we waited too long ,hes closed,so im going to the sign company that did our other lettering the show is friday,john

While NY marine is closed try here....They are water slide and I have used them, on mine Champion Blue Ribbon and Wizards

www.americanoutboard.com/decals/index.html

It will be worth the wait for the decals from Peter at NY Marine. I have used the water slide, they are a pain in the butt. They are hard to place and have to be protected by a clear coat. The last set I bought fell apart while I was trying to separate it from the background.
I am a professional designer and produce my own vinyl graphics, I would never use anything but the decals Peter sells. They are accurate, the same price as the others, are easy to place and don't need to be sealed.

i would have loved to of had peters decals,but i waited too long and the show is friday,so i had the local sign shop do them,i wanted the chrome background but she said it wouldnt last as long as the background i got ,at least not on a boat motor,but i think they came out good,and they match the lettering of the boat,john

so they cut vinyl letters, looks pretty good John.

thank you headley,and that red cowl is fantastic,very nice ,i would love to see the whole motor,john

tall texan ,ithank you i would have used them,but we are leaving on friday,i waited too long,john

Even the decals that Peter sell has to be clear coated over

Water slide is what most of the manufacturers used pre 60s.

I never had any problem with water slides...Let soak well, have the area wet and have a spray bottle of water handy...keep the surface wet till they are in place....Then again I have put water slides as large as 5ft X 2 1/2 ft on vintage airplanes.... and some on places a vinyl will come off....like the prop

I have used Peter's on my motors however he does not make them for all motors and the ones that has gas for the Wizards are not correct

I thought I'd give a local sign shop a try and was pleased with their efforts. They did 2 sets for $34.00 and change. A good thing too as in my zeal to get them on I managed to put the 1st one on the wrong side.



Also had them do my registration numbers and name. The numbers are the same color combo as the name.



Melanie

A few quotes directly from Perter at NY Marine:
Most of the decals for the 50's were not actually water release, but were solvent release. OMC used part # 277409 and Mercury used part # C-92-25143. It is a naptha based solution. I have soaked some of these decals in hot water for a half hour, changing the water every ten minutes and they would not release. Less than one minute of soaking in the naptha had them releasing just fine.

These decals are printed on vinyl. Even though the original decals were not vinyl I believe there are several good reasons for using vinyl now.
Modern vinyl's are only 2 mil's thick, that's .002" or 2/1000's thick, which is thin enough to stretch over the compound curves found on the cowls of many motors. (See installation section)
I have over 30 sets of original decals and they were all made face down or in a sandwich between two layers of paper, (See picture). The decals were applied against the surface you wanted with the top paper still in place, rubbed down and then the top layer was peeled off. There was no "slide off" involved.
Most of the reproduction decals available in water release type are made face up so you have no choice but to slide them off the paper onto the desired surface. This is not a problem with smaller decals that are round or square with smooth regular edges. But if they are large like many of the side decals, (which can be up to 15" long) or if they have irregular edges like the Seahorse symbol on the front of the 1956 Johnson's or the side of the 54's, that have long thin pieces, it becomes very difficult to slide them off without tearing them. Also the thin pieces fold under and then tear off when you try to unfold it. This is probably the single biggest cause of frustration with this type of decal. They are extremely fragile.

And lastly, I don't clear coat Peters decals because:
The colours on these decals are made of a resin that is heat applied to the vinyl. Gasoline will not wash them off. However, acetone will dissolve the colour, most other solvents will not. Do not use any of these to clean off your motor. The manufacturer makes a brushable clear Alkyd that I use to coat any decals that I apply. This makes them impervious to most chemical solvents. I coat the decal area as well as a bit of the area surrounding the decal (1/8 inch) to prevent any gasoline that might be spilled on it from dissolving the adhesive.

some will clear coat, I don't see a need.

headley wrote:

And lastly, I don't clear coat Peters decals because:
The colours on these decals are made of a resin that is heat applied to the vinyl. Gasoline will not wash them off. However, acetone will dissolve the colour, most other solvents will not. Do not use any of these to clean off your motor. The manufacturer makes a brushable clear Alkyd that I use to coat any decals that I apply. This makes them impervious to most chemical solvents. I coat the decal area as well as a bit of the area surrounding the decal (1/8 inch) to prevent any gasoline that might be spilled on it from dissolving the adhesive.

some will clear coat, I don't see a need.

Checked with Peter (met him at the Tomahawk 2 years ago)

Must clear coat his decals because the ethanol in the gas will destroy his decals...... he was most likely at the Constantine meet this year however it looks as he will not be making it to the Tomahawk meet this year (starts on the 27th and he will be back on the 25th)...and less I find another good employee soon (like by tomorrow) I will not be going this year again

I use Peters decals and paints. There is nothing better on the market. My simple solution for not damaging the decals is simply not getting gas or other chemicals on them. I have never clear-coated any of his decals. The painted areas near the gas connections and under the carb are always inspected for drips and promply wiped up.

This is a Mercury Mark 30H I restored close to 20 years ago. Back then, NO ONE was making correct repop decals for the old Mercs, so I HAND PAINTED mine. Still looks good 20 years later!

I guess Peter would also have the paint for the tanks as well?

Forget it, I found my answer.........

Norris58 wrote:

My simple solution for not damaging the decals is simply not getting gas or other chemicals on them. I have never clear-coated any of his decals. The painted areas near the gas connections and under the carb are always inspected for drips and promply wiped up.

That is simple to do on remote tanks...however for motors with the tanks built onto the motor it is a bit hard....less you run only a 1/2 a tank, never forget to close the air vent, never raise the motor out of the water and motor only smooth water

However I use my motors for more then show! So the tanks are filled up when I am going out, and sometimes I do not think of closing the vent while fishing, and when the boat is pulled up to the shore you bet the motor is going to be raised...And if the lake is a bit choppy and the fish are not biting where I am; I am going across it