TOPIC: 1958 Johnson Seahorse

I am about to light this thing on fire and throw it down a hill. So, I will take a break and see if anyone can help me. I have a 1958 35hp seahorse on a 59 fleetform. Took it out to the lake a few weeks ago. This motor always started easily but I had never ran it at the lake. Motor had no power and seemed to run on one cylinder, died, and I could not get to restart all day except for a few hopeful sputters. Got it in the shop now. I have 100-105psi compression on both cylinders, new plugs, new coils, new points and condensers. I have spark comfirmed at both plugs. Rebuilt the carb, seemed like the old packing was falling apart inside the adjustment ports. Reinstalled carb, brand new needle and seat, and I think they are sticking. Once you pressurize the tank and crank the engine it pukes fuel out of the main jet. STILL WONT START! Not even try to start, no pop or sputter, NOTHING. Even if I spray starting fluid down the carb it will not fire. Basics are Fuel, Air, Fire.....it should run. Not mine! Could timing be off? If so, how do you adjust it? I am lost and out of ideas, I bet it is something stupid and I am overthinking it. I'm going home, hopefully someone has some input so I can get on the lake sometime this holiday weekend.
THanks
Catto

Did you check the float level? How is the float itself?

How about your spark gap. I know you have spark, but the gap also affects timing. I also know that the throttle position affects timing. But you are right. It is spark, compression and fuel, but they have to happen at the correct time. '58 OMC's are good motors. You must be missing something.

How is the float..Is it one of the old cork or a new plastic one

If it is cork you need to take it out and let it dry out well. Then sand it with some 220 sandpaper and paint it with fuel proof airplane dope

2 most commen things I remember is having the 2 s/plug wires crossed and a split woodrif key on the flywheel. If its the flywheel key, get some valve grinding compound and reface the crank/flywheel with it or it will just keep splitting the new keys.

Not sure about your issue.I would not use starting fluid on a two stroke.Take some of your premixed gas and put it in a plastic dispenser that has a "squirter" top.You will not score a cylinder that way.Starter fluid has no lubricant.

Operating the primer on the tank does not pressurize the tank.

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A running motor pumps air into the tank.

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Connecter o-rings replaced on the hose.---Does spark jump a gap of 1/4 or better with a snap you can hear ???

On my spark tester, it does not seem like the spark is that hot. It will not jump 1/4 or better. Are the coils adjustable? I did notice an elongated hole when I mounted them. I did check the float when I rebuilt the carb. It is not sinking or taking on fuel. The engine is pumping fuel back to the tank. I did alos try swapping plug wires with no change, these are all good ideas guys. Thanks, any more ideas? Can you set the timing on these?

Sorry but you really have a " no spark " condition.

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Fine tune the magneto by setting the coils in the right place and adjust the points using the timing marks on the flywheel and the 2 vertical lines on the magplate.

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Visit

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aomci

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and ask for more details there.

I agree with the "no spark" idea. That has to be what is going on. I did find a temporary solution. I just scored a 1956 starcraft boat with a running 1956 Merc 500 for.............wait for it.............Two Hundred dollars!!!!!! Picked it up this morning, swapped the motor and controls onto my boat, just fired it up about 5 minutes ago and it runs GREAT! So I will be doing some boating after all. Anyone want a cheap starcraft?!! hahaha. Love it. Thanks for all the help guys, I wont let that sea horse beat me, i'll get it running.

potential issues- you did not replace spark plug wires- i would do that

if you did not install the coils just right, they will hit the inside of the flywheel and you won't get spark for long