TOPIC: Buffing questions.

I just finished the 1st part with a Jamestown Dist. buffing kit.
It is looking better. I was expecting little, but it already looks a lot better.

Do I need to finish this very soon? (I am wiped out already.)
Will it ozidize in the next week if I don't finish it this weekend?

I may do the second buffer tonight after the sun gets over the trees.

Will I need to wax asap, or can I wait a few days?
I am not going to be around much this Sunday and when I do get home I will be tired.

How do you clean those 3M buffer pads or are they disposable?
I will use the other side for the 2nd buffer.

I also have several vertical areas that look like rust staining. Yes this buffer works, but the major flaws start to show also. They are 6-8 inches wide and evenly spaced. I doubt there is anything I can do, but suggestions are welcome.

How can one remove very old duct tape? I have some small areas that just seem permanent.

It is now 2:45 pm, a little warmer, and the Finesse-It II glaze isn't acting like this morning's Imperial Compound. It looks done and shiny, I go to wipe it with a rag, and there seems to be compound still there. It gets white and smudgy and very difficult to buff off with a rag. What am I doing wrong?


Thanks
Jim

A couple answers, the buffing pads are "cleaned" with a tool that looks like spurs on cowboy boots.In a pinch most guys will take a slotted screwdriver,run the buffer and gently push the blade into the bonnet while moving it back and forth.
Duct tape will come off with a adhesive remover,3M makes some good stuff that can be found in a parts store.Thats all I "know".

OK I managed to finish.
I think the buffer was slower, because it was heavier from the
morning buffing but no cleaning. Pad was heavier.
I even waxed it.
Thanks, I will look for the cleaning tool.
Jim

Good polishers are variable speed 1200-3600.High speed in the hands of a rookie will lead to the paint/finish being burnt in other words you go through one or more topcoats.

I had the Jamestown buffing kit.
It comes with a 1000-3000 rpm buffer. (Settings 1-6)
I had it on 2 for the 1st buffing, and 3 for the second.

Jim

Sounds like you have it "dialed" in,most likely will look like a pro did it!

And that adhesive remover is called....3M Adhesive Remover. Go figure. The pad must be cleaned. Especially the wool pad. Clean wool is a fine abrasive, wool clogged with compound just generates heat and softens the glaze and deposits junk.

OK I did manage to get the last of the tape off with GooGone. With a lot of elbow grease though. Thanks

How can I clean the pad now that it is dry, or is it junk now? I didn't touch it after the two sessions. It is $50 so if it is salvageable I would like to be able to use it in the future.

It is double sided so I flipped it between buffings.

The boat does look good and shiny, but there are areas of discoloration. They were there before and no buffing is going to fix it. I just wonder what caused it?
Also all the impacts, cracks and crazing now are obvious.
It still looks way better though.

According to the previous owner, the boat was used hard for many years, then sat unused for 13 more.



The green looks better, but I actually think the green/brown is the original color. When I took the Starcraft emblems off the green/brown was under there.

All in all the buffing kit was worth it.
Jim