TOPIC: Paint question

Hi,

My apologies if this is wrong forum but...

Boat: 1960 Glasspar G3, previously painted with an interlux product, possibly Brightside. P.O. doesn't remember for sure.

I would like to repaint the top, possibly using Rustoleum Topside marine paint and was wondering if anyone has any experience using it. Not looking for a show boat paint job, just a 20 footer (looks good a 20' and beyond!) that will stay on the boat. I was thinking about The Rustoleum, followed by clear coat..

[url=http://]http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=4[/url]

Any advice appreciated..

Thanks,

Kerry

(Where is Spring?????)

Ive used Rustoleum regular paint many times .They can mix colors now even .For a real nice durable job go to a fleet farm or tractor supply store and find thier Valspar enamel .They sell hardner for thier enamel .Get some xytol thinner (( Same as xylene )) .Mix your Rustoleum with 10 to 15 percent thinner and 2 OZ of hardner per quart .Let it sit 45 minutes stirring every now and then .Gives the hardner time to activate .Spray the first coat thin and let it flash off for 20 to 30 minutes at 70 degrees .Little longer if colder .Spray your 2nd coat and 3rd if you need it giving the same time between coats .Then walk away and dont mess with it for 24 hours ...L.O.L..Try to spray on a less humid day by the way . Humidity can dull enamel paint .Let it sit in the sun a few days then wet sand it with 800 followed by 1200 .Then buff and wax her .It will lot real nice .The only good clear is Automotive in my oppion .TCP Global sells U-Pol clear for pretty cheap .Its decent clear for under a $100 .Problem is clear will react to enamel unless its fully cured .From expierience speaking Ild let enamel set for at least 3 months before clearing .I know that sounds crazy but its true .Then wet sand with 800 and clear .Ive seen it wrinkle or look like cottage chease if shot to soon .That TCP Global company sells single stage urethane for under a $100 a gallon with hardner and thinner in a kit. Restoration shop its called .It does a nice job and if put on right looks like BC/CC .Urethane drys tons faster ,is harder , and offers more UV protection .Less waxing down the road .AND PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE use a Good Resperator with Organic Cartridges when you spray anything with a Hardner .If you dont you could wake up DEAD the next day and no paint job is worth your health or life .The Carlson Challenger in my Avatar was sprayed with Rustoleum 15 years ago and is still on there and looks great .Needs a good waxing every year .Not bad for a $35 paint Job ...L.O.L..

I searched for some paint information and came up with this thread from a few months ago and have some questions. If I get Valspar enamal from Fleet Botique you mention that they also sell a hardner, never looked for that. If I use an epoxy high build primer on fiberglass and get it sanded with 600 w/d will the enamal/hardner combo work for a topcoat? I don't think there would be a problem on the metal trailer with a regular primer. How does the Valspar lay out? High gloss? Does it need a polish job?
Cal

Well Epoxy Primer first off isnt a Hi build primer .Its generaly used as a base coat primer for primer It sucks to sand most brands of it .In the Automotive field they would use Epoxy primer over bare metal for its adhereing qualities and its ability to keep moisture from penetrating .Once the epoxy is on you would put a Urethane Hi Build primer over the top of the Epoxy and wet sand your imperfections out then top coat the urethane with your choice of paint .IMHO to spend that type of money on prep materials then shooting Valspar on it would be a great waste of money .Epoxy or urethane isnt real cheap .If you want to go threw that expense buy a Single Stage urethane paint for your top coat .For a real decent job on your boat and reasonable .. Go to the TCP GLOBAL website and look at thier restoration series paints .You can get single stage urethane gallon Kits for around a $100 depending on color . Thats for paint thinner and hardner in the kit form .Thats only $50 more than Valspar with hardner .They sell on Ebay to and usaully cheaper than thier site .and while your there look up there Upol DTM urethane primer .Ild skip the epoxy then just shoot the Upol DTM on and wet sand . Then your Single stage Color over that .
Valspar for me has been Junk .But ive used there hardners in Rustoleum .Rustoleum is just good cheap paint and you can just sand and prep your fiberglass and shoot the Rustoluem with out priming .And yes you do have to Wet sand and Buff after it hardens well .Same with Valspar or really any paint to get a Top Notch job .Even with $600 a gallon Dupont you will get dust or crap in it yould need to wet sand out and buff .Urethane will hold a shine and hell of alot longer than ANY Enamel to .
But most importantly do a search on here for Hardners and on other Web sites About the extreme dangers to you health by spraying paint or primers with hardners .THEY WILL KILL YOU if used without the proper safety precautions .Yes KILL YOU ...Please be safe above all .
Larry

Thanks Larry, I do have the proper equipment, Teflon suit, masks with the proper cartridges, head cover etc. I'm going to experiment paint on my trailer and leave the topdeck for last. My mistake the primer I used on the lower hull is a urethane that I got from the paint tech at the auto shop. A gallon of that for both the top and bottom. It does a great job of filling those spider cracks. I got a qt of Imron snow white for the bottom but need to go a little less costly on top. Cash is running low for this build.

OK. Here's what I got for primer and bottom paint. The primer works teriffic for what I need.

Kerry,

I used Awl Grip - Off White on my G3 restoration, and am very happy with it. I was able to wetsand and buff out the imperfections for a better than a 20' job. I will definately use it again.

I don't have any experience with other boat paints...

Dean