TOPIC: Boat Painting, Part Two

** This thread discusses the content article: Boat Painting, Part Two **

Do you have any photos of the finished job? I would love to see the completed paint job.

Before and after photos are here

glassclownboats.com/Skagit17.aspx

Before I get tied to the stake and burned...... Why roll and tip vs. Spray?? I do not understand why the emphasis is on rolling and tipping. I have seen many great sprayed jobs on cars, is it different on boats???

Just asking, I truly am a newbie at this.

Jim.

Jim,

It's not a bad question at all. Here's the reason for emphasis on the roll-and-tip method:

The paint is Awl-Grip, a two-part linear polyurethane paint that is commonly used on boats because of its durability, solvent resistance, gloss retention, abrasion resistance, and flexibility.

The downside to LPUs is they can be deadly to spray without supplied air and expensive safety equipment.

The upside to LPUs is they can be rolled and tipped in a way that is both safe and, with proper prep and technique, virtually indistinguishable from a spray application.

Other paints; enamels and single part polyurethanes can be sprayed using conventional safety equipment.

There is a good explanation of different topcoat choices here: glassclownboats.com/PaintvsGelcoat.aspx

Hey guys, about crazing repair, is the west systems fairing filler enough if you just press it in to the areas with the spider cracks or is there more prep work to those areas?
Dave

Crazing must be ground down to the mat as far as I understand. Some people remove all the gelcoat. Ron

daveclamar,

WELCOME ABOARD.

yours, satx

Here are some BEFORE and AFTER photos of our 1960 Glasspar Seafair Sedan which had a complete hull restoration this past year:

BEFORE:



AFTER: