TOPIC: Transom Replacement

** This thread discusses the content article: Transom Replacement **

Here it is. Finishing touches tomorrow morning. Good night.

Very clean.. some of the best products used... Get it set for the next 50 years.

Looks good! I'll bet that transom will be there well after the rest of the boat has disintegrated into dust....

-Andrew

Thats a good idea to lay it up on saw horses before the installation, why didnt I think about that, lol... Keep up the good work, Mike

When cutting out the glass (and wood) you may want to try a Multifunction Tool....A lot less dust and cuts a smaller kerf then a grinder

They range in price from around $25 (on sale at Harbor Freight) to near $400 at some tool houses

I have 2 of the cheap ones from Harbor freight...that way I can have 2 Difference blades handy and not take time changing back and forth (or the same blade set at difference angles)..(a big spender or Lazy?)

www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/multifunction-tools/multifunction-power-tool-67256.html

very helpful as I move forward on my Lake N Sea... need to get back on it after winter home projects are finished!

Great pictutorial Jamil, thanks for sharing. (New word, I just made it up. LOL) Gotta tackle that task soon on the CCSR. I've been researching the subject, and have a sincere question. Some folks mention sealing the plywood with penetrating epoxy, (thinned regular epoxy, am I right?). I understand the layers of glass applied both "faces" would probably accomplish the same thing, but what about the edges? Could/should a person seal them before installing the core? Just asking because I want to get it right.

Mark,

You're right on both counts. It is good practice when dealing with any organic core material to seal it with penetrating epoxy which leaches into the wood.

The most problematic portion of any plywood is the end grain. It acts as straws wicking moisture directly into the plies.

In the pictorial, in the photo of the fillet around the perimeter. I used thickened epoxy and a big syringe to fill the gaps between the hull and the transom blank, then ran the fillet to hide the seam. Because the gap was as much as 1/4" (and in some points, even bigger) the thickened epoxy has done a very effective job of sealing the end grain everywhere but at the top, which gets glassed and faired.

The reason you didn't see any of that in the pictutorial (to use your word) is because I didn't want to advertise that my cut was off by 1/4".

I'd like to personally thank you for the shame you have brought upon me and my family by addressing this issue in public and calling attention to my failure as both a professional and a human being

(I'm just giving you a hard time. You are absolutely right about sealing the end grain and it is good best-practice to do so. I'm confident that the repair was made effectively and the subsequent use of thickened epoxy in its place has not compromised the longevity of the repair, but it was definitely not the preferred way of doing it.)

I'd hoped no one would notice my transgression, but it seems you've paid close attention. Good eye, you were right. Now please knock it off

Yes sir. I was once told by a master woodworker that the sign of a true "craftsman" was the ability to fix the goof-up's (not that 1/4" is a goof-up) so that nobody knew they were there. You accomplished that, had I not blurted out my question. Next time I'll shoot you and email. Have a great day and please keep up the good work.

The Student

good saying mark,my dad used to say a "good carpenter can drive a bent nail"he was saying we are not perfect everytime,but you better know how to fix it.john

Nice - I look forward to doing the tiny transom on my Reinell Jetflite. Unfortunately, the transom inspection on my Skagit revealed that it will have to be replaced too. This will be my 2nd curved transom, which makes a straight one look easy.

Bruce

Great post, Only thing I dont understand is the five layers of glass to hold the transom in, thought the last layer should be cloth not matt? Does it matter as long as you start with matt... B..

About how much resin did it take you to do the transom shown?

Cloth is porous and allows water penetration. Mat is a better defense against water. Always start any lamination with mat. Never finish any lamination with cloth.

It took a little more than half a gallon of resin and half a quart of catalyst for the transom, tabbing, and stringer repair. But resin was also used to mix up fairing compound, fillets, and structural filler.

where does one buy marine plywood?

Our local hardware/lumber stores carry Marine Tech. If yours doesn't carry it, they can probably get some in. Or go to another town and ask (better, call around).

I should be able to get by with one sheet of 1/2" to rebuild my transom to 1-1/2". I'm just dreading paying $55 for that sheet, let alone if I had to go $75 for 3/4" and have 1/3 sheet left over.

Hi for some reason i can only view the very first pic and 3 of the very last pics- nothing in between and without pics, im SUNK?

an ideas for a fix?

Yes. Please fix the pictures if possible.

The author disappeared, and many of the photos uploaded from his now defunct website.
Many libraries carry a book titled Runabout Renovation by Jim Anderson, which is a good quick read: www.amazon.com/Runabout-Renovation-Find-Fiberglass-Speedboat/dp/0071580085

since this post is more or less useless without the pictures why not just remove it?