TOPIC: Pouring Transom Attn. mrusson

I am hoping to pour a transom for a 1958 20ft Skagit offshore. Bill R tels me that Mike has already poured for his 20ft Skagit Express. I have looked at the e-mails including Bonneville web site. Not quite sure how you got the pour up the sides to the upper gunnels. My e-mail is This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.. Picures and info would help give me the confidence to do this. Clint

Go to the '70's Disco Fiber forum- about 5 posts down, "1978 Chrysler Conquerer" thread by Conquerer 115 has a few pics and some info from when he poured his transom with Seacast.

Hey Clint,

Seacast actually has an video on their site that shows the process and is very detailed.Takes a few seconds to load but is a start to finish tutorial.

Melanie

www.transomrepair.com/catalog/pages.php?pID=6

I viewed the Seacast video and it is a good one. It is a step by step video. This would work very well with the transoms that are not straight across. Some boats have a slight bow to them, this was the way they were designed. (My Dolphin) Thanks

After watching the Seacrest video, I have started to chainsaw the transom of my Skagit. Sure is a quick way to get rid of wood. Will use Seacrest or Nida-core pourable material if everything goes well. Hopefully I will be able to get all the bad wood and get everythin clean without damaging the inner or outer fiberglass skin

Nida-core is actually a distributor for Arjay. Arjay makes "nida-core" and there product code # is 6011.Not sure where you live but Fiberglass Coatings distributes 6011 and there in Fla. 727-327-8117 Tech info is at www.arjaytech.com in case you need any info like what temp is best to pour etc. This product is less money than Seacast, just as strong and also a little thinner. That allows it to seek out all the little nooks and crannys before it sets up. I will be using 6011 when I do mine in a couple months.

You might want to look into Jamil's article on fiberglassing and cores, specifically the transom section where he touches on the poured transoms. He makes a good point that the pour will only be as good as the preparation. Specifically cleaning out the old material and proper preparation of the skins with acetone and sanding. He recommends removing one of the skins and replacing it in order to get the best preparation of the surface. If you are not going to remove one of the skins, you should at least try to do the best you can to clean it out. Although I'm sure it would be better than what's in there now, this is not a place were you want to take short cuts.

I realize it needs to be clean. The transom is not completely gone. I still may remove the inner skin. Depends on how clean I can get it. If nothing else I have removed a lot of bad wood easily.