TOPIC: windshield u channel

I am looking for a place to purchase the u channel that fits around the top of the Tayler windshield on a 58 Lund aluminum boat. The channel seems to be anodized aluminum coated witha clear plastic.

Any lead appreciated.

Thank you,

Randy

hi randy,i was thinking of making my own windsheild and using automobile door edge trim,its chrome and bendable,i think it will work,john

here you go,it is sold in 5 foot increments,like 10 feet would be plenty. www.brandsport.com/trmg-2105-c.html

I used that same stuff on my Lone Star. I got it at auto zone for like $10 for 12 feet I think. Worked great!

thanks chris i hoping it would work.
this stuff even has some kind of glue inside of it,you can see it in the above pic.john

The stuff I used had 3M brand adhesive and has held up very well. I also used it on the lip on the inside of the boat. It forms well even on tight inside corners. In this picture you can see it on the left but not on the right (also the motor wasn't painted yet, yuk) It looks good all done. I'm very happy with the product and plan on using it on my Winner project next.

I will look for a long piece.

Thank you,

Randy

Randy/John-

I'm going to be replacing a couple of Taylor windshields, too... Mine look like this-







It's a pretty standard Taylor windshield- I've got two that use the same moulding on them (This one, and the one that's on my Custom Craft, though that is not original to the CC).

I had thought about the same moulding that you were looking at, but the aluminum channel is going to provide a bit more strength to it, and also will allow the mounting of a bimini top if I want to down the line. You can see that the moulding on my Lake N Sea has been drilled for snaps- Probably part of why it's in such bad shape!

As you can see, both the windshield and the moulding have seen better days. I looked for a new one, preferably NOS, but also salvage, and really had no luck. So, I decided I'd have to try to make one.

I found the moulding with NO problem- It's standard 1/4" x 1/2" Aluminum U- Channel. Home depot/lowes has it (or can get it), but not in lengths that are QUITE long enough... I've found it online, too, but again the lengths aren't usually long enough, and when they are, the shipping is a killer since they have to go motor freight. Hopefully, I'll find a local supplier.

The challenge is BENDING it. But, that's not all that tough if you know how to go about it... I was playing with a piece of scrap to see if I could do it-





It actually isn't that hard to do, if you go about it right.

First, and probably most important, you have to anneal the aluminum. This softens it so it'll bend right, rather than crease... This is what happens if you try to bend it without annealing it-



To anneal it, You want to heat it until it's near it's 'critical' temp, for most alloys that's about 800-900 or so degrees. You've got to be a little careful, though, because at these temps, it is VERY close to it's melting point- so heat it too long and it'll start dripping. A trick I use is to touch it with a piece of wood, if it chars instantly, it's hot... Yeah, it's not precise, but I use it when I'm forging aluminum all the time, and it gets me close enough.

Once it's hot- Let it cool- S L O W L Y. When it cools, it'll be softened.

Bend it to the radius you need. You need to support the area inside, or it may collapse when you bend it. I use a couple layers of cardboard (NOT corrugated- It'll just collapse), it works quite well.

If anyone is interested, I'll take some better photos and/or video when I actually make mine, to explain the process better.

-Andrew

I certainly am interested in step by step photos or better yet a video of the process. Will you be doing the plexiglass as well? We have 2 windshields to repair. The frames are in decent shape but both have cracks.

Melanie

Yes- I'll use Lexan instead- It's tougher and will last longer.

I'd definitely be interested, I think a video would be a great idea, it's always so much easier for me to see someone doing it.

FYI, I still have a pile of Taylor-made windshields, NOS, but they are all 70" tip to tip. Made usually for a 17' boat. (These particular ones were made for the MFG 17', but they will fit just about any 17').

Dave

Andgott wrote:

Yes- I'll use Lexan instead- It's tougher and will last longer.

My thoughts as well.We used Lexan in all our drag cars to reduce weight where ever there was flat glass.

andrew,wonderful info my friend,a karma point for you,also here is another good read on making windsheilds,i saved it because i need to make one for the jet de ville,i cant wait to see the rest of yours but if its a video i cant see it,im in the boonies and on dial up,lol... www.glen-l.com/weblettr/webletters-5/wl43-windshield1.html john

Thanks, John....

I had run across that Glen-L Site too- Great info there.

I'll do photos and video- Since you're on Dial up I'll send you a CD/DVD of it... It will be a while, though- I had PLANNED to get some major work done on my Glasspar this week, but that looks like a no-go. I'm flying up to Green Bay in the morning, we're moving the ship to Chicago for the winter...

-Andrew

thank you andrew,i appreciate that,and have a safe trip,john

I have an old Taylor windshield as well. The frame is in good shape, but the windshield is cracked. This winter I will try replacing the windshield with Lexan. My question is where can I find the molding used in mounting the windshield to the frame? I sent a sample of what I have to Taylor, but they don't have anything close. Can I use some type of adhesive/caulk in place of the molding?

aquatech,

I would try an auto glass shop.On cars like our '34 and '55 that have a frame work that goes partially around the vent windows they use a cloth type material to secure the glass in the frame. I'm sure it has some adhesive impregnated it. Using a scrap piece of Lexan one could tuck the material into the channel and trim it before installing the windshield.