TOPIC: Steering System Questions?

The Ride-Guide rack system in my boat is getting pretty sloppy, and I believe the parts to rebuild like bushings, etc. are probably NLA, right? Even if one could find or make replacements, the cables to fit those old systems are very expensive IF you can find them I'm told.

I've been window shopping for new steering systems, and wondered if anyone would take a few minutes to advise me/us on the pro's and con's of the rotary style as opposed to the rack style steering systems. Also, I'm thinking that for the few dollars more in cost, the No Feed Back style would be the smarter way to go. Any thoughts?

My boat came with no steering, so I looked at both rotary and rack style. In the end, the rack wouldn't fit, so I went with rotary. Another modification I felt was needed was to drill a hole in the side of the splashwell to feed the steering cable through. The new steering cable didn't have the enough bend to use the old pulley holes. I also fabricated a bracket to hold the cable after seeing what was available online.

That said, I would think the rack style would be more precise and "tighter" than rotary. Also, rack is more expensive, and I would think the no feed back style would be better.

Just my two cents, I'm not looking to keep my current boat period correct, so drilling the hole wasn't a concern of mine.

Paul

Well...I can tell you what I've found from the little bit of research that I did when I was shopping for a new system...

First, there are still some units around if you want to go with original and or rebuild it. Tim C had some and so do a few others, you just need to know the exact length you need.

If you chose to go new, the basics are that the rotary will fit in some spots that the rack won't, but since you already know the rack will fit, you should be fine there.

Sometimes feedback is a good thing, like in a high performance boat, you probably aren't worried about that though.

So that being said, either one will do in your case.

The rotary system may be slightly cheaper since it's a little more common.

Thanks for the feedback guys, I appreciate your input. I will probably pull mine apart this winter and try to figure out where the "slop" is. I know the shaft from the wheel down to the rack has a worn bushing on the rack end, you can see the shaft wiggle when you turn the wheel. I'm not sure if the nut that secures the cable to the rack has worked loose or what, there seems to be a lot of play before it even tries to move the cable.

It's sometimes harder to steer to port (especially under power), so I'm thinking there may be significant wear in the cable. My motor is very sensitive to trim tab settings, it varies with what trim pin hole I'm in on the motor. If I change the pin, I have to change the tab or it pulls to the right and is harder to turn left (port). I know I could go for "happy medium", leave the trim pin alone, but I just gotta mess with stuff all the time, ya know!?

The Boathouse Bulletin in the library for my boat (Thanks staff!) calls for a 13' steering cable length, so I may give Joe Poole a call and get Tim C's contact info from you later on. Thanks again guys.