TOPIC: Where to go for restoration of Plastic Badges????

Hi all, is there anywhere I can send the perspex / plastic badge off the cowl of my outboard to have it restored? it needs the metal vulcanising re-done and re painted?
I have found mostly NOS for the Rude, but I don't like my chances with this part so will have to get the best one I have rebuilt if possible
picture below............

Cheers Matt

You could do a restoreation yourself. Did you ever build models? Check out this link, stuff is nice www.bare-metal.com/bare-metal-foil.html I use this stuff for all kinds of stuff.

An option to chrome the piece and then paint the black & foil the gold.
muellercorp.com/chromeplatingplastic.htm
www.chrometechusa.com/

Good luck...

Im not sure Bare Metal Foil would be good for that. Im curious too if anyone has any good ideas on how to restore these. I have 3 motors that need some attention to the emblems, I cannot seem to find NOS ones.

CAT*FIN*k wrote:

You could do a restoreation yourself. Did you ever build models? Check out this link, stuff is nice www.bare-metal.com/bare-metal-foil.html I use this stuff for all kinds of stuff.

An option to chrome the piece and then paint the black & foil the gold.
muellercorp.com/chromeplatingplastic.htm
www.chrometechusa.com/

Good luck...

I have a few as well: 57 Evinrude Lark door panels and other emblems. These were originally colored from the inside, so I would think model paint would work, especially paints suitable for plastic. Maybe visit your local hobby shop? Glad to hear from anyone else who's attempted such a project.

Belay my last. I didn't see it was clear. Check a hobby shop or modeling web site. Testors Model Master automotive or metal series. They are a high quality paints, available in small amounts(1oz?) and can be brushed or thined and airbrushed. Another good source is fingernail polish, can also be found in metal colors and come with a brush.

You would need to get a "plastic safe" stripper to remove the old paint, again from a hobby shop. It will also improve the end product to use plastic polish to remove the fine scratches and haze prior to re-paint.

I've used the Bare-Metal on exterior trim and even engine parts. It's real metal and thicker than leafing. I've always clear coated to protect from scratching.

Nail polish! Never would have thought of that one. I like the description of the Bare-Metal products. Will definitely consider that product for future projects.

I've been told that some hobby shops (Hobby Lobby maybe) now offer the paint in a roller tip pen type dispenser, which makes application much easier and neater. I've seen the end result on a Glastron Carlson dash panel, turned out great. The panel was sprayed with black, then the raised letters and surround trim were done in silver, looked O.E. Spraying a clear coat over it would help it last longer, as long as the paints were compatible.

First would be to remove all the old finish. Easy-Off oven cleaner works well for this, even on clear as I recall. There are other means available - I seem to remember reading something about a Dawn product that does a good job and is "safe".

Once all the old finish is gone, the part would need to be polished on the front surface, removing as many scratches, etc. as possible, restoring the shine and the clarity of the clear plastic.

With the part polished and clean, it is time to layer in the various finishes from front to back - ie the gold, black, white, etc. being careful to leave the chrome areas clear.

Then once the various colors/finishes are completely dry, the part can be sent to a shop that can chrome plate small parts for the last step.All teh front surfaces would be completely masked or sealed and just the rear side would be chromed. The chrome would also seal the various colors/finishes and provide long term protection.

A labor intensive process but worth the effort in the long run.