TOPIC: Stress cracks in gunwales ? Need advise.

These cracks in the fiberglass at the aft end of my gunwales weren't there when I bought the Starflite this past winter, I feel sure I would have noticed them. The one on the starboard side is worse, and appears to be "growing".

The transom is still sound and solid, although I did notice some black (rotted) wood stuck to the screw when I went to change my pitot tube recently. (I attributed this to poor bedding of the hardware during initial installation.) I also noticed a couple of soft spots in the sole Saturday morning when I was out on the lake that weren't there before.

I've read here somewhere that it is not uncommon to have a Glassic seem solid when you first bring her back into service, but then have structural wood issues shortly thereafter. Should I be planning on a total transom/stringer/floor replacement this winter? And an even more pressing question, would it be alright to keep using the boat a few more times if I take it easy with her - quit jumping wakes etc..?
I'm thinking I need to get parts 1 and 3 finsihed (read) of Jamil's tutorial, and patiently await part 2! LOL (I'm really not laughing tho, kinda bummed actually.)

wow mark,those are definatly stress cracks,it looks as if the gunwales are pulling away from the transom,you need to get a better look at them from underneath,that should tell you alot more then i can,i would stop using it untill you find out just how bad it is.wow now im bummed out for you buddy,thats a nice boat and your a good guy.if you get under the spashwell and take pics of the cracks from there ,post them,you will recieve help,you have helped us before,its your turn for our help!

I'll have to pull the control cables and wires down to see up under there, but will do.

man mark,i feel for you ,i wish i was closer,well maybe i am?where are you?if i can help let me know.im in indiana,pennsylvania.

I'm about an hour south of Atlanta, GA John. (Pretty good ride, huh). I just came inside from doing a little investigating out in the garage, there ARE several soft spots in the transom, just below the motor mounting bolts! The screwdriver now pushes in a little, and water weeps out. Definite dull "thud" there compared to elsewhere on the transom, so it looks like big trouble. There is a plywood bulkhead and foam right under where the cracks in the gunwales are, so I really can't see up under there. I've gotta believe ALL the wood needs replaced, I'd better go find an AA meeting somewhere!

Bummer. Mark post another pic of your boat. A nice pic so we can see what you have better better.

Hi Mike, You mean like this? or this?

wow mark,damn,im sorry,it doesnt look good buddy,and the craks are on the gunwales ahead of the transom,that doesnt look like an easy fix,but im here if you need me.john

I'd be very surprised if a flexing transom had anything to do with those cracks. Those are part of the deck, not the gunnels. If the transom wood is wet, as most are, it will eventually fail. You can do a visual check for transom flex. Lock the engine in the full tilt position, then pull downward on the lower unit. Don't pull so hard that you break the tilt bar, but it can take a good firm jolt without any damage. Have a helper stand in - line with the transom wall & watch for any sign of flex. It should not bow outward or flex when this is done. If it flexes a tiny bit, no need to replace it - yet. Keep an eye on it though. Sighs of transom failure - cracked areas where the splashwell is attached to the transom, delamination, and motor brackets that are crushing into the structure. I'd put a few 8" wide strips of mat & cloth on the underside - centered over the entire length of the crack or longer. That is probably a weak area that is cracking due to pounding from torn up water.

I appreciate your "condolences" John and Mike. You're both good friends to have.

Thanks for the input Bruce, I checked the transom with the "stand on the vent. plate" test, got no deflection at all. Also tilted the motor then lifted with as much force as I could, seems solid as can be - for now. The bolts aren't "pulling in" yet and still seem tight, so maybe she still has some time left before the major surgery is required.

I've become quite attached to the old girl in the short time I've had her, think I'll try to be more gentle with my driving style and keep an eye on things for a while.

Cracks only occur where there is flexing. Gel is usually a little pliable so it cna go with the glass as it flexes some. There are limits and conditions it can withstand. Where you are seeing cracking is probably due partly to workmanship and the location.
Excess flexing aside due to possilbe stringer/transom work, the area you photographed is suseptable to gel cracking as it is a sharp inside corner. During manufacture, it is very difficult to get fiberglass to laminate on a sharp corner like that so it is likely that the gel coat right in the corner is not bonded to any underlaying glass laminate. In thinking about how the boat is built, the gel is sprayed on first into the mold, because the deck is inverted this sharp inside corner is a sharp outside corner, when laminating th glass fabric likes to bulge away from sharp outside corners. Good practice is to radius all outside corners so the lamination glass fibers can conform to a radius rather than trying to bend over a corner. Glastron had designed in an area suseptible to stress cracks. I'll bet if you poke very near the crack with a pin you will see there is a slight gap between the gel and the underlying glass. Gel gets brittle with age lessing it's ability to flex and further without the support of the laminate right at the corner it is more likely to crack with even slight flexing which would exist in even a new boat.
Randy

I forgot to mention that seeing black on your screw is not good, it does mean water and rot. it could start locally to the screw but as that local wood rots the screw is now into nothing, it allows more water to wick in and be absorbed in the transom. Wood lives because of capilary action in the tree. This works against you as it provides a great way for water to transport through the transom. I would remove an engine bolt and look at the wood there to.
The flexing transom test is not a very reliable way to determine core wood health. You simply cannot come close to applying the thrust load your motor transmits to the transom. How much force do you think it takes pushing on the transom to move your boat 30 mph?
You are not strong enough. I have had many restorations where upon removal the transom wood was DIRT yet pushing on the motor did not reveal any issues. So it is not always a good indicator.
Randy

63g3 is spot on. Good advice.

Thanks Randy and Jamil, I do appreciate the additional information, input and advise. Will check the motor bolt holes ASAP.

That's gonna leave a mark. My experience with Glastrons...They are very well built and the wood will be worm food before cracks show up. Towing the boat is hard on the transom, transom supports are a good thing, but once the core has failed you've got a progect on your hands. I always suggest when it's tore up...replace all...or you'll have winter projects for the next few years. Good luck...we're here for ya!

Pulled a couple of the mounting bolts this morning before work, looked just like the pitot mount screws - NOT GOOD! I think you're right, might as well plan on replacing all the wood this winter. Woodworking I am familiar with, fiberglassing will be a learning experience. I'm gonna start studying up, but I'm sure I'm gonna need some help/advise!

If that transom has to go, think Seacast.

Oh believe me, I'm thinking about that option Jim! Ray (69Fabuglas) mentioned doing stringers out of it as well, I'm up for checking out all my options before beginning this project. I know most everybody says properly glassed in wood will last another 37 years, but the idea of doing away with the wood entirely just sounds smart to me for some reason.

Sea cast sounds good. Mark, will you need to split the deck to do the transom? If the sole now has soft spots I wonder how the stringers look. I hope glastron used fiberglass stringers but I doubt it.

If the boating industry used composits from day one and none of this wood business we as classic boat lovers would have nothing to do during the winter months

Mark, will you need to split the deck to do the transom? If the sole now has soft spots I wonder how the stringers look. I hope glastron used fiberglass stringers but I doubt it.

From the research I've done so far, it would be much easier to do if I do pull the deck. Other projects I'm following (on CGOA) on similar boats show the stringer going up under the front cockpit bulkhead, so I think it's going to be essential to do it that way. It appears Glastron used wood for their stringers, and generally didn't do a very good job about glassing them in (encapsulating them) either. Combined with questionable drainage, it was a recipe for disaster down the road.

It's gotta be done, I have become pretty attached to the old girl already, she deserves to have whatever is necessary done to "ride again"!

mark,are you ok buddy ,i havent seen you post in awhile,i know your feeling down right now ,but when your finished(it will feel like you never will finish,but you will)it will make you proud of the great job you did,and remember we are here for you,so cheer up buddy,john

I'm okay John, thanks for asking. I took the Starflite out for a ride yesterday, not nearly as many boats on the lake after Labor Day. The water was much smoother, beautiful day, really took it easy with the old girl. Everything went fine, and I think I enjoyed the ride TWICE as much as usual, if that's possible. Everything seemed solid, so I'm thinking I'll get a few more rides in before "surgery".

Some more of the guys on CGOA and CGOAMN are also telling me those cracks are pretty common, not necessarily crying immediate impeding danger. The black wood in the bolt holes and the soft spots in the floor DO mean it's inevitable, but we'll make it through it. "With a little help from my friends!"