TOPIC: Tech Pages: Pourable Transom 1967 MFG

I have made up a photo gallery and descriptions of how I replaced the transom of my 1967 MFG Westfield. I chose this route- because the MFG Transom is curved. Trying to fit plywood would have been somewhat problematic.
The procedure was very easy.. and only took 2-days start to finish. Now that I know what I'm doing. I could do it in one day pretty easily.

The price of the Nidabond was about $250 for 10-gallons shipped. My transom required 8-gallons. The hardener was another $25 as it had to be purchased from a different company (hazardous material). I will try to look up that information and post it on the webpages when I have more time.

www.raylinrestoration.com/BoatStuff/MFG-Transom/index.htm

Awesome.

Thank you.

Ray,
Outstanding, keeping that in the old knowledge bank for later.
Thank you very much.
Bob

Nice tutorial for others to use.

That Nidabond, it looks like there weren't any fibers mixed in. Is that true?

I did mine with Seacast, and they supplied the fibers to mix. As I recall Seacast was a lot more money though. I wish I had taken more pics. Seacast also sold me spacers made of seacast to the dimensions I needed.

I ended up cutting my outer hull off instead of the inner skin. I likely should have done it your way. It would have looked much better.

Great information.
I will be doing the transom on a 56 Glasspar Del Mar.
It has a curved transom. It looks like on my boat the best way to keep the outside intact is to remove the inner and rebuid that way.
Is there any thing else that goes in for strengthening?

Neil wrote:

Is there any thing else that goes in for strengthening?

Nothing is needed. The Seacast/Nidabond are much stronger. They have outstanding compression resistance (10x plywood), so you can't even over-tighten your bolts and clamps.

Nidabond does not have fibers in it. It's polyester with ceramic beads (kinda feels like sand).
It's plenty strong without fibers... so I believe they thought "why add it if it's not needed?" . It might make it stronger... but it doesn't "need" to be that strong.

Figure it this way.. if a 1 1/2" transom is strong enough... why go to the extra expense, and added weight to build one 3" thick?

Thanx Fabuglas. That looks like the way I will do mine.

Fabuglas, what outlet did you get your NidaBond from?
Thanks much.