TOPIC: Newbie Intro!

Hello fellow enthusiasts, My name is Ed Moore, but I go by teched since I use to teach it for a living. anyway I would like to thank the moderators and administrators for adding me to this forum. Long story short...I have a "thing" for old transportation related items. Vehicles, Campers, Motorcycles, Snowmobiles, All Terrain Vehicles etc, etc. But I have never owned a boat...So I found a "free" boat on Craigslist. We all know if its free it probably junk. I went to look at it and he said that the trailer could go with it for $100. My dad had a trailer so I could have moved it without it, but the owner then handed me the transferable registration for both the boat and the trailer. I couldn't pass it up then. I am know the bran new owner of a 1964 Starcraft Siren 14' and a 1973 Dilly trailer. I was then able to track down a 1964 Evinrude 40hp Bigtwin with controls for $75. The engine turns, but I have not done compression test, but I have purchased new waterpump, points and condedsors. So I guess I have a complete boat. My first question is about the transom. I have read and seen many people replace the transom. How do you know if this is needed. The transom and hull seam to be very solid.

The transom is usually wood encased in fiberglass. when holes are drilled in it for screws, handles, drains it allows a path for water to enter and that leads to rot. If it was properly sealed and no water made it's way in they can be strong 50 years later. That is less common than we would like. A soft transom is dangerous from the aspect of allowing the motor to rip off under power and create way more excitement than you want. One of the ways to check it is to put significant force on the motor when on the boat and look for flex in the transom. there shouldn't be any. partial rotted segments can be identified by lightly tapping with a hammer and listen for a dull thud. Not high tech but works pretty well.

Thanks for the quick response. I have not attached the motor, but I have hung my 250lb butt off it and I felt no movement. I have a feeling that the boat was garaged for most of its life. The floor is also solid. Maybe I got lucky.

the force to be concerned about is not down but the lever action of the motor pushing forward at the bottom and pulling back on the top of the transom. I hope you are lucky. Just want you to understand the force that acts on the transom.

From the inside, drill a couple 3/8" holes through the fiberglass and slightly into the wood. Drill them fairly close to the engine mounting holes and a couple near the bottom. Stuff a screwdriver into the holes and see if you can detect any mushy wood. If it's bad in those places, it's had it and will need to be replaced. If not, fill the holes you drilled with 3M 5200 and you're good to go. (Disclaimer: If your engine rips the back out of the boat, I'll swear I never wrote this or heard of you.) P.S. Welcome to the forum!

Thanks I'll give it a try and off you see my motor and transom pass you could you please point it in the right direction back to were my boat was last seen above water. Lol

Maybe one of the our Good Souls are close by if you need a second opinion but one thing I would put top priority to is the shape of the transom. Yes it can be fixed ,repaired and if bad most likely replaced. Don't look at it as Work but as a part of the hobby that can't be looked over. May as well look for floor soft spots too. Nothing is as irritating as stepping into a hole while boating. I was extremely lucky. My transom was rock solid with a little delamination at the top. It was an easy fix. HAVE FUN and be safe.

Forget the boat and motor for now. I want the '63 Ford in the background.

63.5 2 door with 390 335hp HiPo to be exact. I have a thing for "rigs" I'm also in to old campers. I think its really cool to see a period correct vehicle pulling a period correct trailer...or in this case a boat. I have a 1948 F1 panel truck to pull my 1946 Spartan Manor and a 1964 F100 to pull my 1965 Scotty Camper.

got any pics to post of that sparton?? they are really cool...had 2 or 3 63 fords back in the day....one was the fastback with the 406....just sold our 66 ford custom cab last winter, had a 429 stuffed in it.....welcome to the site!!!!

Here is how I found it and 2 years of work later.

Excellent! Love to see all things rare, unique, and preserved or brought back to life!

Back in the 1990s, I bought an old 1923 American Lafrance pumper truck, did a little creative shortening and remodeling, stuffed in a 1947 A-LF V12 and ended up with this: My bigger, better and faster homemade Stutz Bearcat.

Cool!! I like the chain drive!

Dual chain drive...I kept the original transaxle and mated it directly to the V12 clutch via a 2-1/2" flange bearing and a customized transaxle joint. I had it up to about 75 mph once but the front wheels (unbalanced) started that shopping cart thing and I was afraid I was going to lose it so I backed down. I carried 70 gallons of gas in those two tanks. The engine got 6 mpg downhill if I was lucky.

Here's the V12: two distributors, four points, four coils, 24 spark plugs, two generators, two carburetors, etc. It required 99 feet of Packard spark plug wire...I had a foot left on a 100' spool.

Awesome! Thanks for sharing!

That homemade Stutz is unbelievably cool.

My wife and I taking a ride. It was a BIG "car."

Cool on so many levels. You have Mad skills to say the least! Very awesome machine! Can't imagine the sound of 12 cylinders as I have never had the pleasure to hear one.

I tried the "tapping" on the transom with a hammer trick. It had a high tinny sound, no low thuds. I think that's a good thing. Question about seats? Would it be better to go with Back to back "original" or a bench for the back seat. I would prefer a back bench, but would that be too much weight in the rear? I also have 4 plastic screw inserts in the floor of my boat. I assume that is where the seats bolt down, but they seam too close. Does anyone have a picture of bolt holes foe the back to back arrangement? Thanks

I'm not a huge fan of the back to back seats unless you plan on pulling skiers/tubers. As for weight, that probably depends more on who you're putting in the seats. A couple of young'uns probably won't matter. A couple well-fed guys like myself might!

Thank you. I was going to build my own seat frames and upholster them, but we have a Gander Mountain Store going out of business locally and has 60% off the boat seats. My boat is painted Blue, but should be Red. It looks ok but someday I want it red again. I was tore between which seats to buy. White and red or white and blue. I was able to buy all white Wise economy seats for $18.99 each. So for $80 including tax I've got brand new seats. I think my plan is to create 2 separate plywood/glass boxes to support the front seats and have some storage ability. In the rear I will make a plywood/glass full width box with a access hatch between the seats. I can keep the PFD's, bumpers, "Tools" ect in there. Sound like a plan??

You have a plan in place - check! You maximized saving - check! Saved time - check! Put savings to work elsewhere...up to you. Gave another fiberglassic member a great idea to run over to my local Gander Mountain sale- check!! Thanks - forgot about that! More storage always seems to be good. I believe in Wisconsin, the DNR won't let us store life jackets under seats as they want them to be seen and easily grabbed. Easier in newer boats as my old one has no place they won't fly out occasionally. Hope that works for you!