TOPIC: Paint prep question

Did manage to keep busy during the shutdown. Got the Tomahawk bottom prepped. Sanded, filled, primed, sanded, primed again and now wet sanded with 600 and washed with clear water. What do you professionals use to wipe down or remove body oil type contamination before a final coat?
Just waiting for some warmer weather. Translation...no snow.

I know what you mean snow here again this morning and mud under that. Looks like you are coming along nicely. I can't help with the prep but someone here surely will.

Just gettin' ready for the Triumph. You can see there's no hurry. Working on seats today. Got paint for the Tee Nee also.

Get a quart or gallon of Wax and grease remover. Where you bought your paint they should have this.
Wet out a paper towel ( l like Bounty paper towels) wipe the surface until it's wet and clean. It will dry very fast. Apply your finish.

Hey I'm jealous! I havent started on my Tomahawk yet but plan to next month...I bought primer and white "Supermarine" paint from the bottom paint store...Just enough to start the bottom and get the boat flipped upright again.

What product did you use for filler? Are you going to spray the bottom?

Also, have you decided on a top color? and how about the interior? what color, or how are you planning on finishing the inside fiberglass walls and floor of the boat?

Thanks and look forward to hearing back from you!

Tom

I always use a product from Crest Industries called Hi-Solv. Its specifically a pre-paint cleaning solvent. I works very well. My father used it in his auto body business for decades. Heres the link www.crestauto.com/?p=1447

Edit: Make sure you use one cloth to apply and another to remove.

Triton, thanks, Over 50 years ago I used to use a DuPont product called Prep-sol, don't know if it's even made anymore, that's why I asked.

prep-sol was a good product, but seemed a little oily feeling....i liked final wash from napa better....like he said, use one rag to apply and another to wipe dry, and replace often.....follow with a tack rag....wad it up and gently pull it across the surface....don't rub, as you will transfer the sticky from the tack rag to the part that you just cleaned.

Thanks for the advice. I'll pick up some at one of the local Napa stores, have a bumper to bumper, O'Reily, Federated, Auto Zone, CarQuest and a whole slew of stores to go to. I imagine they all have their brand name.
Another 2" of snow on the docket for tonight, doncha just love spring
Right now the boat is covered with a very light plastic to keep dirt and stuff from contaminating it.

The Primer that is in the picture is from an auto store that specializes in paint. It is what's called a high build primer which means that it's thick but sprayable and fills in those pesky little divots and sanding scratches. It can be reduced for a normal spray gun and multiple coats applied, dries very fast once applied and sands really easy. If you mix like 8:1:1 you can spray with about 30 PSI with a HVLP cheap Harbor Freight gun and has a pot life of about 4 hours after reduced and mixed with the hardener. Once you have it sprayed and dry I take a small artist brush (el-cheapo) and dip it into the leftover mixed primer which by now is getting pretty thick and spot drop into the small imperfections which are always showing up. That sets up within an hour and then you can sand down those spots again probably with a 220 grit. I usually wind up doing this a few times cuz those pesky imperfections keep showing up again and again. My equipment is what you might call cobbed together. I have to run two compressors in series to keep up enough air pressure.
The interior had no seats so I'm making my own. The topside will be white over calypso coral. The inside glass walls will be pure white probably rustoleum rolled on. The seats I am making are white marine vinyl with coral piping, working on bending the 3/4" bracing for the front buckets today. The bilge area I'm thinking might be truck bed liner which is very tough and water proof.
I do everything myself, don't outsource any interior etc. and it shows

Looks like they have a spray application as well (which could save on application rags)...I am learning every day - thanks all!

sounds great, cal....when i used to do alot of hail (conventional) i would use one of those small rollers like for corners in a house...roll all the spots and throw them away....a lot cheaper and faster than having to stop and clean a gun every couple hours...gun cleaner isn't cheap and high build primer isn't very forgiving after it starts to set up in a gun...like the coral

mark...i would stay with the rags....just like using a wash mitt on a car, you can scrub off any fly specks, oil from your hands or air sanders, spilled beer or most other contaminates with the wet rag, then wipe it up and dry with the other.

That was a very helpful tip. Thanks - makes full sense. I learned 2 things today (I think that is an all time record for me ).

I sure am glad I am watching this project as I will hopefully somewhat follow in these footsteps. You are making great progress Cal in spite of 9 straight days of dustings of snow.

Weather seems to have finally broke for the better the past few days so it was time to get down to serious playing.
Did go to the paint mixer and got a quart of wax/grease remover and did a complete wipedown. Splashed on three coats of coral. Yesterday got to colorsand the entire bottom and reflipped on to the trailer. Made initial setup install for the front seat bracing.

No wax or polish on the bottom so it's still "raw". That's about the last step.

Also installed extra knee bracing on the transom with 5200. Just "tabbed" them in place with glass strips until the glue sets in seven days and then they will be glassed entirely.

Cal, your boat is looking good. what are you going to name this one, frog

Name will be on the registration card..."SOLD"!

I firmly believe this will be my last rebuild for these old girls. Past few weeks it's been getting harder to crawl around inside, lying under the deck doing wiring and running conduit chases for steering etc. Knees, back, ankles are really telling me to stop.
If I make it to Edgerton on May 20/21 I'll be bringing inventory to dispose of. Chrome stuff, electrical, lights, dinged props, lower units, full canvas mooring cover, steering parts and a couple monkey nuts.

Cal - do those added knee brace mean you are still contemplating the 135hp? Sorry to hear the body does not like the passion you put into these old rigs. I hope you still will enjoy the fun part of showing and using the classics. I have so much to learn (I have one full restoration ahead of me and one floor repair on another). I can't wait for May 20 in hopes to see and learn more. Do you plan to bring down that Tomahawk? That shiny paint looks nice and would love to see it! BTW let me know if you have a rotary steering box with cable that is nice. I will re-measure, but think a 10'-11' will work for my small rig.

Mark, the 135 is getting prepped. Only have one steering wheel, pulley type with all pulleys and cable guides, nice chrome bezel but no cables.
Don't know what I'll be bring down. The "pull toy" is a heavy hauler, the Tomahawk would be a lot lighter if it's finished.

Thanks Cal. I do at least have a period correct wheel and dash hub...I am wanting to covert pulleys to hard push/pull one piece cable...no biggie. If you do not mind, I would like to talk painting and look at your boat if you get it down there. You are doing great on this rig!

Mark, The basics of painting are on line here. This guy speaks to the home painter and also the professionals. All types of prep from what sandpaper to use to finish shines. Many youtube videos to watch even how to set pressures on you gun and equipment. I found him very helpful.
www.learnautobodyandpaint.com/author/tonyb/

Thanks for the link Cal,
Looks like I will be spending some time at that site.

Thanks - I need to watch to get over my fear of paint guns since I never used one before. I am still on the fence with everything I read and watch and manufacturers recommendations, and professional recommendations. Seems many make one choice or another based on what the "previous" steps and condition of your Glass product.

Also still pondering the Gelcoat spray vs. Paint. could be a labor/sanding thing too (as my body feels the abuse). also - my boat will be lucky to see 21 days on the water (one day at a time and stored out of the sun and no salt water)...mostly lakes and few river trips with Tamerack (tea like)stained water. My big consideration is to look nice (not have to be perfect because I will have a decade of grandkids learning to ski and jumping in and out)...yet I want it to last the next 50-60 years.

I sure need good advice to get me off of this "Fence".

Say are you still looking for the aluminum trim which rides in the channel between the top and bottom half or your boat?
This may work...TACO metal also has a 3/8th inch width as well in case 1/2 is too large...

www.eastmarine.us/marine_products/Taco_A510102TAL12D_CURVED_BACK_ALUMINUM_MOULDING_HALF_OVAL_ALU_Hardware_Moulding_Marine_Boat_Products_UPC_630838000561_222395.html