TOPIC: Boat colors

Just dreaming ahead for the Tomahawk paint job and was searching for colors, came across this site for Sherwin Williams and thought it should be shared. These are all auto paints. Click on a color and it actually shows a moving color swatch in bright light and shadow.
sw-rodandrestocustomcolor.com/find-your-color
If you enroll in the site is will give you the formula et-al.
After sanding on the Tomahawk I finding that the original colors were white over a deep coral, thats what started the search. Came up with an old Mercury color called "Calypso Coral", thinking of that as bottom with a white topside, color match the engine....Gene.

sw-rodandrestocustomcolor.com/find-your-color

Cal...You might also find this useful. I choose my colors by looking at cars, especially older cars from the 1950s and 60s. If you know the year and the make, you can get the exact match by using this:

www.autocolorlibrary.com/aclchip.aspx?image=1956-Lincoln-pg01.jpg

It's the PPG automotive paint library, which is what I use when deciding colors. Just follow the directions and plug in the name of the color (or any name actually), scroll down to the bottom of the page and you'll see the chip chart for the specific year and model car you plugged in.

I've used Corvette Honduras Maroon, 1965 Buick Riviera maroon, 1956 Chevy Tropical Turquoise, 1984 Maserati white, etc. One of my all-time favorites is 1976 Chrysler (Dodge, Plymouth) Powder Blue. (see photo) Virtually everything I paint is done using PPG automotive acrylic enamel. If it's good enough for fiberglass Corvettes, it's good enough for fiberglass boats.

It's just another option you might consider.

You sure do beautiful work. A man after my own heart, love the way you combine mahogany with the glass a combo that can't be beat. I did look at that site while searching. I used the Sherwin Williams site cuz it was easier for this old guy. Went to the local SW store and they no longer do auto paint. Closest one would be in Milwaukee, WI about 150 miles away. Cost more for gas than paint
Went to the local Federated auto in Green Bay and ordered everything I needed, will have it Monday. "Calypso Coral" (1968 Mercury), for the hull, plain Jane white for topsides and fins, both single stage. Some high build primer, reducers, catalysts, proper thinners etc. All totaled to $254. Not bad for everything I need. All I need now is time and warm weather. I agree, if it's good enough for the Corvettes it's good enough for me. The counter guy at Federated did ask if the boat was going to stay in the water or just used for daily trailering. Said if it was just a day use boat and trailered there would be no problem with auto paint. If it was docked all summer that would not be a good choice.

Love the colors but was wondering if maybe they should be reversed from what you said? Just a thought.
I have done a lot of paint work on boats and found that water will creep under any edges, like tape lines if it sits in the water to long. That being said most of what I have done is with 2 stage clear coat on mostly custom graphic work. Have never used single stage on a boat yet, and I say yet because the cost of 2 stage is nuts these days so I will probly use it if I ever get to do one of mine.
Can't wait to see it painted, great color choice.

Thought about reversing the colors and putting the coral on top but then decided to keep it original in the sense. Seems like most of the boat manufacturers always put the white on the bottom, gets boring after awhile. Take a walk on the wild side, turn 'em upside down. Maybe that's why Tomahawk didn't sell that many with that color
Couple of pics of where I'm sanding, the coral looks more pink in the pictures but it really is a darker shade. You can see the white coming through on the fin area also. Don't try to turn you screen upside down. The boat is flipped.
And yes, I did glass the white oak splash rails you can see in the pics.

Looking great!
I did a 50 Nash in a Coral very close to your choice and used a Ford Wimbleton white on the roof looked perfect together.

Keep up the work that's making me so jealous not to be able to get to mine yet.

Cal - what sander so you use (and grit)? What are some of the better options? I do not have the air powered orbitals...I only have an air long block sander, an electric vibratory with dust collector, hand long block sanders, the rotary soft rubber bit for a drill and a powerful belt sander (of which I would be scared to use since it takes off lots fast). I have to sand everything like you, so I want to be fastest that I can without wrecking things...I know sanding must still take patience. Any help is appreciated.

Mark, I have an Armstrong rubber block sander, about $3.00 at the local hardware store.
Sounds like you have more equipment than I do. I only use/have an electric Ridged palm sander and patience. On this Tomahawk the PO or someone used auto paint, an older single stage. I recognized the colors 'cuz I've used them before on cars.For the initial take down to get to the minor scratches and rough up the surface I used the palm with a 120 grit. Tons of blue power floating everywhere...use a protective mask for sure. Don't spend too much time in one area because it will go through the gelcoat. There will be some of those swirly scratches if you don't keep moving. When that's done you can block sand with 220 grit. Have to use the ol' finger and small piece of paper to get into the corners and cracks. If you don't the paint will lift off after awhile. I know others have different and probably more professional methods but I use what I have. Proper prep is key, don't take any shortcuts. When the sanding and gouge repair is done I use a high build primer over the entire surface, this "liquid Bondo" will fill in and cover those pesky scratches that seem to always show up in the finish coat.
If you plan on using automobile paint get the compatible reducers and activators for the brand you are using. Don't try to substitute with off the shelf thinners, they might not work right and problems will show up at the worst time. I have a really old cheap compressor that can almost keep up with the spray pressure needed but I've found this to be a good thing because it keeps me from rushing the job. An in-line water separator/filter is a must. Light even coats are best, don't try to cover in the first coat or you'll get drips and runs. Put on a coat, let it flash over a few minutes and do a second/third coat. Most will come to a high gloss as they cure.
Just my way with the equipment I have which ain't much.

Mr.Cal ,great thread, you really do great work. I'm about to start on my 58 Tomahawk , so lots of great info here. Did you leave the aluminum rub rail on ? If so how do you plan to "shine" it up ? Before or after you paint? Keep pics coming and all info. Also talked with Greg Anderson lots of info there too !!!

Cal, I'd go with the Coral and white, coral on the bottom would be cool and different. Just my 2 cents.

Bob

Mad, Aluminum rub rail???? what's that? I suspected this boat had something on it at one time because there are screw holes in the joining sections. The picture shows how it was on Craigslist, no trim. There was a stick on trim around the bow area, that was a devil to remove, I just might replace with the same type of trim. On aluminum trim that I have shined up seems like Mothers aluminum polish works out the best and easiest.
Thanks Bob, Thinking the same way, probably go with a coral/white seat combo to bring the color to the topside. The inside could be white with a bedliner type bilge area. Just tossing some thoughts around.

Cal:
Here's a photo of the Correct Craft Barracuda I finished last year. If you squint your eyes a little, you can imagine that the orange is coral and it might give you an idea of what your boat would look like with a coral hull. Also, just about any color other than white will noticeably fade in the sun and be hotter to the touch.



If it were mine, I'd change the coral to peach and do a "peaches and cream" paint job. Chicks will dig it and an ugly guy like you needs all the help he can get in that department. Just trying to be helpful.

Cal, that make its easier !! I've used aluminum cleaner and polish but still has scratch marks left over. thanks madbohunk safe boating

Ah HA, You confirmed my suspicions. There had to be some type of rail there. Thanks for the picture. Nice looking '58. What size motor and top end? I'm trading my 135hp rude for a 65hp with Gene to put on there.

Nautilus wrote:

Cal...You might also find this useful. I choose my colors by looking at cars, especially older cars from the 1950s and 60s. If you know the year and the make, you can get the exact match by using this:

www.autocolorlibrary.com/aclchip.aspx?image=1956-Lincoln-pg01.jpg

It's the PPG automotive paint library, which is what I use when deciding colors. Just follow the directions and plug in the name of the color (or any name actually), scroll down to the bottom of the page and you'll see the chip chart for the specific year and model car you plugged in.

I've used Corvette Honduras Maroon, 1965 Buick Riviera maroon, 1956 Chevy Tropical Turquoise, 1984 Maserati white, etc. One of my all-time favorites is 1976 Chrysler (Dodge, Plymouth) Powder Blue. (see photo) Virtually everything I paint is done using PPG automotive acrylic enamel. If it's good enough for fiberglass Corvettes, it's good enough for fiberglass boats.

It's just another option you might consider.

What are those seats? I have seen them somewhere but can't place them. Like'm a lot!

The seats are Tempress seats:

tempress.com/?gclid=CNj83cer0MsCFVg6gQodQ44Hig#!/Elite-Helm-Seat-High-Back-Boat-Seat-White-Shell-White-Cushion/p/1527506/category=442159

tempress.com/?gclid=CNj83cer0MsCFVg6gQodQ44Hig#!/High-Back-All-Weather™-Boat-Seat-&-Cushion-Combo-White/p/1527434/category=7063819

Thank you Sir. Really like the look.