TOPIC: New here and need some identification help

Hi all. I'm new to the site and to classic fiberglass boats. I was given the boat in the pictures. I don't believe what the registration papers say are accurate. It's registered as a 62 "Corsair". I have spent hours searching this site and the internet in general for images and articles and cannot figure out exactly what it is. Matching and comparing images I've found it's very similar to a Glasspar of 61/62 but it doesn't have the side mold line from the Glasspars I see. It has flat sides more like Elgin and the bottom window trim looks more like Elgin., however I can't find any pictures of an Elgin or any other brand with the same front deck molding shape as mine. It appears the Flying Scott 60 is original. There is no hull plate and I can't find any ID numbers on the boat anywhere. It's just under 15'. Anybody have more information or idea what it is?

dherweck,

I can't help with the ID of the boat, but I don't think that was the original motor on the boat.
The motor is definitely a 1960 60 hp Scott, but there is a white relay box mounted on the splashwell that was only used on 1958 and 59 60 hp Scotts.
The controls are the "single lever" that Scott brought out as an option on the 58 60 hp motors and by 1960 they weren't being used a lot.
It may be that the boat is a 58 or 59 because it appears that was the motor it came with. I don't think anyone would put a 58 or 59 motor on a new boat unless they got some kind of a deal.
That deck sculpting is unique and someone on the board will probably recognize it.

Don

Welcome aboard!

She is NOT a Chris-Craft Corsair. But maybe: www.fiberglassics.com/library/Corsair_(Texas)

It is possible that the model name is "Corsair" made by so and so boat company.

Andreas

Thanks Andreas! I was thinking that too as I've spent another 20 hours on line searching. Unfortunately there seems to be very little information on line about Corsair in TX. I can't seem to find pictures on line of any boat with the deck molding, motor mount area, dash, and body lines of the boat I posted pictures of. It might be a Corson from Maine, it might be a Corsair from TX, etc. It seems to be something around 1960. At this point, I'll just treat each item as a mini project and see what I come up with when I'm done.

dherweck,

WELCOME ABOARD.

I believe that you've found a rather rare CORSAIR of TEXAS made about 1959-60 for a BRIEF period in the Dallas-Ft Worth area.
(I've seen 2 of them in about 3 decades.)

If it was mine, I would restore it to as near correct as I could.

just my OPINION, satx

Thanks for the input. I'm hoping to restore it to as close as I can figure out. I'm having a very difficult time finding any information about the company or the boat. The boat seems to be all original and I love the look of it. I'm not sure about the flying Scott as the ID site for the motor doesn't seem to match to the number plate on the motor mount. I'm starting to think maybe it came with a Flying Scott 40 and was changed to the 60 later. I need to find trim, new rub rail rubber, probably a new windshield, and steering wheel. I'll remove and replate the hardware or polish and clean up if possible. This summer I want to get it in the water, then I'll tear into her over the winter. I live in a private, gated, water skiing and fishing lake and there is nothing like her on the water here.

dherweck,

I originally thought that motor was a 1960 because it had a 1960 hood and the large control cable ends that were used on 1960 motors.
After enlarging a photo I noticed that it might have a forward facing serial plate rather than the rear facing serial plate in 1960.
If it does have a forward facing serial plate and the serial number starts with 332A it is a 59 and that would require the relay box on the splashwell. 1960 serials start with C3JB. The motor may have been upgraded with a 1960 hood and a kit that was available to convert 58 and 59 motors to the larger ball ends.
It's also possible it is a very early 1960 and they were using up some 59 parts.
Pull the hood and check the power head. If it has three ignition coils it's a 58 or 59. 1960 models used one. If it has a large generator it's 58 or 59. No generator, with an alternator in the flywheel is a 1960. I've attached a couple photos of my 58 powerhad for coil and generator configuration.
If it is a 1960 those motors were fairly reliable, 58 and 59s, not so much.
Parts can be problem, but your motor looks like it's in pretty good shape. If it is a 1960 it would be worth the effort to get it running and have the correct motor for it.

Don

I believe it's a 1960 Engine, small alternator, one coil. The throttle cable seems long for the boat, so maybe somebody replaced the original motor with something from a different boat???? The only numbers I see are on the transom mount and it says 1540.

Here are pics of the engine without the cover and the controls.

dherweck,

For sure the power head is 1960 and if the only numbers you can read on the serial plate is the embossed 1540, the lower unit is also. In 1960 Scott moved the plate to the transom mount and the wake water and sand from shallow running blasted all the silk screened info off in a year or two. The embossed number that is left is one stamped on the production line.
The controller is the "single lever control" as Scott called it that was offered as an option for use on most of their motors in 1958. I have not seen any other advertising for it after the 58 brochure. it's a little tricky to use and their were two versions of it. The later ones had a reverse lockout so that when you went from forward to reverse you had to wait for the idle to drop down so you wouldn't tear up the gears when shifting.
I have a manual that covers rebuilding and servicing that control. I attached a pic of one I restored. The decals for it and other decals for the motor are available are available from a person who supplies a lot of decals to AOMCI members.

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One other issue you will need to look at if you decide to use it is the charging system. I don't know how much experience you have had with the 60 hp Scott charging systems so I'll mention a few things to look for.
The relay box you already have on the boat is a 1958 or 59. The voltage regulator inside it works with the automotive generator on those motors.
The 1960 uses a much smaller box with just a voltage regulator and circuit breaker. The alternator has six charging coils. The regulator chooses between using just two for low charge, or tying all six together for high charge. You should see if you have that box mounted somewhere in the rear of the boat. If you don't then there is a good chance someone, usually a dealer, deep sixed the box and just ran the two coils full time. The current usually is enough to keep the battery up unless you do a lot of starting and short runs. I have run mine that way.
I have wiring diagrams for both boxes and the motor if you should need them.
It would sure be nice to see that old Scott back in the water.

Don

The shift box looks great! I'll definitely be restoring and needing new labels etc. Here's what is inside that regulator box on mine. No other box mounted anywhere so this is what is controlling the charging system. The second pic is the sticker from the regulator. It fell off as soon as I opened the box.

That's the right setup for the 1960. You're good to go. Scott must have used up the large boxes first and and then went to the smaller boxes later in the model year.
I attached a pic of the same box with everything they originally stuffed in it, including an electric fuel pump. Only the 58 had the pump. They dropped it for the 59 models.

Don

One thing I can add as to this being a transplant motor is your distributor has three wires coming out the back on top and a black one for ignition on the bottom. The three wire harnes is for a Scott tac. Scott put special points in the distributor just to run a Scott tac. Now from the pictures I have looked at I do not see were a tac was mounted on the dash. Which leads me to believe they maybe did not get or bring the tac when they switched motors. The tac points are inside on the top of the distributor run by a cam on the main dis. Shaft. Those points do not look like ordinary points. Make sure you keep them Scott tacs are cool.

I'll look at the points today. I was under the dash, trying to figure out the key code to get a replacement key made and the tach harness is there under the dash, original with sealed rubber connectors etc. My dilemma now is since the boat didn't come with the tach, do I leave it off or since it's a cool feature of the motor should I try to find one and install it?

We pulled the seats out yesterday to send them for upholstery. I wanted to change the interior to forward buckets and a rear bench but the more I look into what boat this is I think we'll keep the simple seating as is.

Found 3 tiny pinhole leaks around where the seat bases are mounted. Maybe that was a stress/weak point on these boats. I'll be doing some fiberglass repair before she's ready for the water but first thing is to see what the motor needs.

dherweck,

Here is a link to a 1960 Scott manual that has your motor in it and has a wiring diagram for it. It's little pricey, but it's been relisted a number of times and they may listen to an offer.



The key for 60/75 hp Scotts from 1960 on is a special key with a roll stamped into the blade. Supposedly there are only three or four patterns of keys used. I'll see if I might have one in a spare switch. You can also call Discount Marine. They have a lot of NOS Scott parts, or might know where to find one. Also, search the net for a 1960 Scoot ignition switch that might have a key. There is no key code on the switch that I have ever seen.
I've attached a pic of the tach. It's nice to have one, but I would concentrate more on getting the motor running first. They are difficult to find and being over 50 years any remaining are usually rough.

Don