TOPIC: 1960 Dorsett Catalina Stringers

I acquired a "free" 1960 Dorsett Catalina and recently begun the dismantling process.

From what I discovered as I dismantled the deck and transom. This is not her first rodeo. Some of the work is questionable...

I am looking for photos of deconstruction. Mainly the stringer layout just after the deck has been removed. Is a 1959 the same as a 1960 as far as structure?


I have scoured the forums here and and other sites and have not been able to find anything.. I was hoping a Dorsett Guy here might have a few picts squirreled away for reference.

I also discovered why it was "free" See the Transom photos

More photos here

Anything?

Hang I there, someone will pick up the ball. I don't own a Dorsett, sorry.

You might go to the pic gallery and see who has one and email them about their restoration. Some folks don't check in here that often.

Looking good - you are going about it the right way - and that is to tear all of the old wood completely out. The stringer tabbing placement looks about like that of the other Dorsett boats I've seen. In my experience, no two of these things seem to be built exactly the same. I have seen some with the stringers completely covered in glass, and others with very little tabbing.

Can you be more specific in what questions you have about the structure? As for originality - I wouldn't be concerned about it. Better to make the stringers out of fiberglass & abandon wood stringers completely. you can get rigid foam stringer forms and glass them into place for a vastly improved boat. Nobody will ever know the difference appearance wise, and it will be a superior boat. Glassing in foam core stringers is actually easier than doing wood.

Here's how the stringers looked on a '61 Catalina when the deck was removed. Wood (fir) stringers tabbed to the hull.

Can you be more specific in what questions you have about the structure?

Any bulkheads or support structure below the deck. Looks like the previous owner reused the old stringers. I just don't want to forget any structure that might be needed.

Catalina61, that is exactly what I am looking for.

I searched the forum archives for any photos or posts. learned a lot of information by doing that.

Here's some other views of the layout.

Catalina61,
Looks great, not a lot of secondary structure. I appreciate the photos.
One other question? Does your '61 have a slight curve to the transom? how did you deal with it?

Oh, it had a curve. Couple of 'em actually. They were dealt with by fabricating an extra thick transom and some quick assembly that included lots of resin, mat, and clamps.

I am working on a 1963 MFG Edinboro which has a very curved transom. I would also be interested in learning more about what Catalina61 did. Did you fill the curved portion over a flat core

For the most part I followed : www.fiberglassics.com/restoration/transom-replacement
The new transom was constructed of two layers of 3/4" marine plywood. After final fitting (filing, rasping and sanding) a 1 1/4" hole was bored through the transom blank aligning with the drain hole for the splash-well. Two additional pieces of 3/4" plywood, about 2' x 5' and two 5' pieces of 2 x 12 lumber were all bored with a 1 1/4" hole through their centers. When the time came for assembly, the thickened resin and mat were applied to the transom blank, and the transom tipped into place.
A 2' piece of 3/4" pipe was placed through the drain hole, and one piece of the pre-drilled plywood and one piece of the 2 x 12 were slipped onto the pipe both inside the boat and outside the boat. The 3/4" pipe is the pipe part of a pipe clamp, the two ends of the clamp were attached to the pipe and every thing squeezed up tightly. About eight other clamps of various type were applied were needed.
If you use this method you will need a partner to help tip/align/thread/clamp etc etc.

The transom is now very sturdy and and has about a 1/4" curve across the width of the transom and very straight from the keel up.

Think a couple of "V" cuts would relieve the bowing? Looks like I am going to have to make some clamps.

Try a dry-run with all the parts and clamps that you will use. You may be surprised at how much the bowed transom can straighten out, I sure was!

Are you absolutely certain it's not designed from the factory to have a curved transom??

MyFlamingo wrote:

Are you absolutely certain it's not designed from the factory to have a curved transom??

I was trying to figure out if i needed to put the curve back in the transom. will it really affect performance of the craft?

Aside from steaming and applying weight to the transom, before installation and glassing, to give it a slight curve are there any other processes to introduce the cure back into the new transom?

I think that the transom is supposed to be straight. I have searched many pictures of Dorsett boats, Catalinas in particular and if the boat is in good condition, the transom is straight. And finally, my boat came with the original aluminum top-cap for the transom, and while it curves up at each end to match the transom, it is straight from side to side.

If the Transom is straight, then I'd recommend using some of these home build transom clamps and a backer board to install the new transom. This link has all the info..

I HIGHLY recommend this link if you want to see how to install a transom the correct way... forums.iboats.com/forum/boat-repair-and-restoration/boat-restoration-building-and-hull-repair/8127378-83-lund-sirius-total-gut-and-rebuild/page9

Hey there classic boaters !! I just recently picked up my first fiber classic , and in fact my first real boat , I’m now the proud owner of a 1960 dorsett Catalina named “ Helen” by a previous owner , soooo classic ,
Any how she’s 90% original as far as I can tell , which is great but she has suffered some neglect in the passed few years , seems she sat outside and accumulated water on the floor which seeped into the stringers and rotted the aft section of the stringers and of course the floor , the transom is still like perfect tho , ( thank the maker of rain ) , anyhow I’ve since removed 50 or so inches of floor from stern forward and all from side to side . I’ve discovered that thes stringers ( original or not ) do not touch the transom , they stop short ( all 6 of them ) no connection except to the hull floor, and with delamination of some tabbing at the last 2 ft not attached , the rot is threw on those last two feet so that at least needs replaced , but shouldn’t they end with a solid connection to the transom ? And with holes to drain to the bilge
Any help with info or pictures would really be great , thanks folks , looking forward to some feedback