TOPIC: First Post. New member question and introduction.

My name is Dennis. Live in West michigan. The wife and I decided to get an old boat to play with. I found a neat looking 74 wriedt spoiler 16. 70hp johnson. Previous 15 year owner. Bought off Craigslist for $1000. Hasn't been in the water since 2013. I am replacing the water pump and adding a telltale to the engine for water movement. My main question is this. The cap doesn't come off like other boats I've seen. I want to redo the transom, (previous owner did but not like I want it). Do I leave the cap on and cut the rear of the boat out and go that way or do I cut the cap off and go that route.

1974 wriedt spoiler 16

If you cut out the back of the transom, it will be hard to make it straight and blend into the original profile of the stern. Lots of people pop the deck off for this reason, and retain the original outer skin. Usually you can tell when someone cuts out the rear transom skin and it never looks the same. Conversely, removing the top deck is tough and can be hard to get it to fit again. The decks can be fiberglassed on, bolted, stapled, riveted, or otherwise glued to the hull.

Typically where the rub rail is, behind that, is where the seam between top and bottom is.

Dennis B,

WELCOME ABOARD. = ImVho, cutting out the transom's rear skin is a LAST resort AFTER you've failed at every other possibility. = I've never seen one that LOOKED RIGHT after the transom skin was removed/replaced.

Jim Anderson's book, RUNABOUT RENOVATION: HOW TO FIND & FIX-UP AN OLD FIBERGLASS SPEEDBOAT will give you LOTS of good advice.
(Most larger public libraries have a copy & there are numerous copies about for a low price, used & for about 5 bucks. - I think that it's "out of print".)

just my OPINIONS, satx

Looks like a Sidewinder copy. I'm sure there's a seam under that aluminum strip. The top is probably glassed to the hull on the inside. You'll more than likely have to cut it off at the seam and reglass it back together when you're done. Not an impossible job to do.

If there is a seem behind the trim it is perfectly straight. The trim is only 5/8" wide.

I'm sure there are exceptions, but every fiberglass runabout I've had or seen, that is where the seam is. The rub rail hides it. Take the rail off and get out the jig saw.

Pulled the trim off and there it is. The seam. Got the carpet and seats out. Seriously bad repair has already been made. No big deal. I can do this. Going to pull the floor out. It's been done once really recently. No tabbing, the wood isn't sealed with resin and it only has a single layer of glass csm. I will be using the boat to pull my kids in a tube so it has to be strong.

This is a picture of my '74 Sidewinder, which appears to be the same hull. Great boats. I've been sorry I got rid of it almost from the moment it was gone.

Sounds like this isn't your first rodeo!!! If you need any help just ask. We'll be glad to help with any advice. What materials are you going to be using? Poly or Epoxy?

I was looking at west systems line of product. Not sure what type. What would be best to use? I was watching the YouTube videos on it.

Well you're boat is made from Polyester resin and glass. You can use the same to repair it but you must prep it properly to do so. Epoxy is stronger but in some cases a bit more problematic to use and a lot more expensive. I prefer to use the poly and get very good results with it. It over 30 years I've never had any issue with it. Some people say it Stinks but I don't mind the smell that much. If you wear a mask like you're supposed to it shouldn't be an issue.

Very well stated Flamingo! My wife hates the smell, I kinda like it. (Weird, I know - but I love the smell of two stroke oil first thing in the morning too!)