TOPIC: Evinrude Starlite 75 Good bad or better than.....

Fat fifty is missing some minor things so an Evinrude Starflite 75 1957ish vintage has been offered to me. So how is this Evinrude for actually using, not just showing? To be used on back of my 1959 14 foot Playmaster. Thanks

It'll have somewhat more power than the Fat Fifty and use more fuel.

That is all.

From what I understand and have read, the 75 hp will be easier on fuel with the newer V style reed blocks. My 75 hp johnson v-4 is not terrible on fuel. It will go through some fuel if run WOT,but most outboards will. I can back the throttle off slightly and cut the fuel consumption down considerably.

Dave the Wave,

The 75HP OB probably won't use more fuel than the Fat Fifty (except at WOT) & (if retro-fitted" with the "V" reed block) won't fill the lake with unburned fuel. = One of the AOMCI members of the Chesapeake chapter has a RESTORED Fat Fifty & it dumps visible fuel overboard, at all observed speeds.
(I think that he now only displays it at "dry shows" & has another OB to use routinely.)

yours, satx

Thanks for all of the input.Maybe just a big sail will solve the problem.

Even in 1960 when a 75 HP Evinrude or Johnson was first available, the Playmaster was rated by the manufacturer and the Outboard Boating Club only to 60 HP.

For a short shaft, electric-start OMC V4, the weights were 205 (1958), 215 (1959) and 216 lbs (1960).

Mercury and Scott-Atwater motors had a much better power to weight ratio: Mark 75 (60 HP): 168-185 lbs, Mark 78 (70 HP) was 180-185 lbs. Flying Scott motors were 60-75 HP, 160-186 lbs.

Having a heavier motor on the transom can affect performance. This can helped by moving weight to the front like installing the gas tank under the bow. I can't seem to find any photos of a Playmaster with a Mercury 6-cyl. or an OMC V-4; all the ads seem to feature OMC big twin motors.

HandyAndy,

As I once owned one, I can assure you that the LONG-foot 75HP of 1961 doesn't weigh quite as much as the average Buick 4-door sedan BUT it would push my old homebrew houseboat (The "SLO POKEY") along smartly, with the optional "power prop" & was near "bullet-proof".

yours, satx

I'm surprised crankcase drain recovery systems aren't being discussed more when these early omc V4's come up. The fuel being dumped is condensate from the crankcase and can be recovered and routed to the main fuel tank or captured in a separate tank. I've got my 1957 35hp Johnson set up to recover to a separate tank and then poured back into the main tank. It looks a little rich in oil. For the first several months I poured the recovered fuel into one gallon jars and let it settle for a few days and checked for water. Got none so now I just pour it back in the main tank.

My '58 Four Fifty certainly must be the exception to the rule. IT doesn't dump any fuel in the water and after 2 1/2hrs on the water at all speeds it used about 6 gals. The dump hose from the bottom of the crankcase has been removed and plugged and I think I have the '59 carb modification done to it. I love the motor!
Verne

If you're looking to retro your motor I have a '60 75hp starflite that I'm parting out. Still have the fuel pump, carb, magneto, etc. No problem pulling off the downdraft or reeds if you need them. Starter is gone $.

I see you have controls too. I will see what happens this Wednesday. Thanks, Dave

I'm interested in the controls. Please PM me.

I mailed you from this site.
Cal

63 Sabre wrote:

I mailed you from this site.
Cal

Got it!

Dave, what happened Wednesday? Yes I do have the controls, rear cable ends are held in place with small hose clamps though

His truck broke down and unable to deliver. Wont be able to escape dealer till at least Tuesday. Dave

w guy wrote:

My '58 Four Fifty certainly must be the exception to the rule. IT doesn't dump any fuel in the water and after 2 1/2hrs on the water at all speeds it used about 6 gals. The dump hose from the bottom of the crankcase has been removed and plugged and I think I have the '59 carb modification done to it. I love the motor!
Verne

That's about the same fuel mileage my 75 hp johnson will get also. Running 20 to 30 mph. I've been running slightly above a pint of tcw3 per six gallons of gas and it doesn't leave a big oil slick around the motor as it used to.

VinTinFan wrote:

I'm surprised crankcase drain recovery systems aren't being discussed more when these early omc V4's come up. The fuel being dumped is condensate from the crankcase and can be recovered and routed to the main fuel tank or captured in a separate tank. I've got my 1957 35hp Johnson set up to recover to a separate tank and then poured back into the main tank. It looks a little rich in oil. For the first several months I poured the recovered fuel into one gallon jars and let it settle for a few days and checked for water. Got none so now I just pour it back in the main tank.

Do you have some kind of pics/digram/system you can share? Is it only for the 4cylinder? I'd love to do this with the 62 Gale 40's I have...

thanks

I'd like to see some type of diagram also even a hand drawn would work.

whatsleft wrote:

VinTinFan wrote:

I'm surprised crankcase drain recovery systems aren't being discussed more when these early omc V4's come up. The fuel being dumped is condensate from the crankcase and can be recovered and routed to the main fuel tank or captured in a separate tank. I've got my 1957 35hp Johnson set up to recover to a separate tank and then poured back into the main tank. It looks a little rich in oil. For the first several months I poured the recovered fuel into one gallon jars and let it settle for a few days and checked for water. Got none so now I just pour it back in the main tank.

Do you have some kind of pics/digram/system you can share? Is it only for the 4cylinder? I'd love to do this with the 62 Gale 40's I have...

thanks

Here's a start:

www.duckworksmagazine.com/06/columns/rob/maib1.htm


You've got to find your crankcase drain reed valves. Remove their cover and tap a hose barb into it. Plug the drain hole that goes into the skeg. I used an aluminum bolt and epoxied it in place. Run a fuel line from the hose barb to a one gallon fuel tank or gas can. Now the fuel and vapor goes to the one gallon can to be collected and poured back into the main fuel tank. This one gallon can gets pressurized so I ran a second hose barb and a fuel line and fed it into the air box. You're 40 hp doesn't have an air box so it's going to be messier. I wouldn't want the fuel vapors vented under the cowling unless I was sure that they will be going into the carb with the fresh air input.

What would be the problem in tapping up in the top bearing area and returning the fuel there like later motors. You could add external check valves in older motors that didn't even have those. Running synthetic helps also.