TOPIC: Rookie error

Painted my Rude 3 banger hood this afternoon, thought I did a pretty good job, smooth, shiny rutoleum with hardner. When finished I cleaned up the gun etc. Looking over the job I kicked myself, a thin spot with primer showing. How long do I have to wait before I can recoat?

My rookie answer to your rookie error is: as long as it's cured I'd do a small test area after lightly sanding it to give the new coat better adhesion. Hopefully some others will chime in on this.

Not seeing the job and time frame if it was not to long I may have just shot another coat. Otherwise when it's set up hard enough to sand.

I waited overnight before the next coat Cal, had no problems whatsoever. (I was using roll and tip method, but that shouldn't matter?) Should be good to go today IMHO.

The paint can says 24 hours before recoating but I didn't know if the hardener made any difference. I'll respray this afternoon. TKS

I'd sure like to see some pics of your progress. Curious if you had to fix any chips or breaks in the hood and are you going to buy new decals? I'll be repairing my hood before long.

Norm, I opened a can of worms with my latest rebuild. The motor I picked up for $70 with the intention of parting it out. When I got it home I did a compression check and found out it was about 124 in all three. There were some parts missing but Ebay supplied them and I did have an old controller that fit the bill but minus the push button shifter. Decided to rebuild and recondition the motor and it's running like new so I started looking for a boat to put it on. The hood was pretty much trashed with holes, nicks, scrapes etc. Spent a few weeks with fiberglass, bondo, sandpaper and got it in pretty good condition but it sat most of the cold weather time in a corner with primer. Yesterday I decided to give her a coat of paint, the rest is the beginning to the thread. I didn't take any pics of the before and after. I painted the lower part of the motor original pea green of the era and the hood I'm painting yellow and probably will put some decal appropriate to the "theme".
Found a 1970 14 foot Crestliner at rawhide with no motor and picked it up for $195. Put a new transom and floor in it and now it's ready for paint when the weather co-ops, probably Wednesday, supposed to get in the upper 40's. Over the winter I stripped the boat down did all the essentials and now it's flipped just waiting. Built new seats front and back and adding a new dash so I can put all the motor controls up front vs the shift lever. I'll put some pics.

Didn't post the rebuild 'cuz I've done so many of them it's getting routine. Just enjoy doing this type of stuff.

This is what I started with. seats were "ripe" transom was fairly solid but wet and someone already tried to patch it up.

These are the new front seats that are going in. I already have them covered now.

Here it sits waiting for bottom paint.

I'm turning it into a "theme" boat for my area. GB Packer Green and Gold. No comments please but it will be a hit around here.
With a 65hp 'rude' behind it should skip pretty good.

The new paint job on the lower.

The yellow hood that is going to be repainted.

And finally the "new" shifter which was also junk that will match the dash. All controls other than speed and shift will be mounted on the dash with a push button start vs. a key.

cal, your doing a fantastic job on your boat. you have a team to be proud of, but you will not see me painting my boat purple after the vikequeens. lol frog

C'mon frog, They've just had a bad string of misfortune.

Hey 63, how did you sand and prep all the little nooks and crannies before painting the lower end without taking it apart?
Thanks

Great stuff! That lower unit looks great. The control setup sounds like fun. Nice little Crestliner too. I agree, it ought to move right along with that motor.

My son's a Packers fan.

Mercooper, The nicks were all sanded down to bare metal and feathered. I did not take it all apart but used auto parts cleaner in a spray can with the red tube to get in all the cracks and voids. That stuff softens up paint also so it puts a tooth on the surface. I took all the knobs, levers and fuel connections off then wiped it down with liquor thinner and shot on a coat of etching primer, high build to fill in any other scratches. The green paint was old stuff I had from many years ago. If I remember I got it at an auto store that mixes. I brought in a green part from a motor and we matched it close with one of the little swatches they have in a book. I've done this with several motors and never had any issue with peeling or paint flaking off in water. Now days if you match paint those guys will mix it and put it in a rattle can for you. I prefer those small pint cans so I can mix and thin just what I need and not worry about the spray tips clogging up and spitting globs.

Great. Thanks.
I've taken the lower bowl, midsection and LU apart and have sanded most parts down to bare metal. for the parts I can not reach, I'll take your approach and use the parts cleaner. I'd like to avoid the rattle can in order to get the harder paint solution used with a sprayer. I don't have the sprayer equipment. So I have called a number of local spray shops but no one is interested. I may have to shop around for a used air compressor and spray gun.

I would not buy a used spray gun, too many small things go wrong with them and you don't know until you start painting.
I don't have expensive stuff. Just a small compressor and a Harbor Freight gun combo. Never had any problems.
Just finished putting on the first coat of dark green on the hull today with that combo.

www.harborfreight.com/3-gal-13-hp-100-psi-oilless-pancake-air-compressor-61615.html

www.harborfreight.com/2-pc-professional-automotive-hvlp-air-spray-gun-kit-61472.html

Great stuff Cal. Good combo by the way.

Bob

Thanks for those links 63. Are you sure the link on the compressor is the same as what you are using? The CFM on that compressor doesn't come near to the required specs for the gun. It only gives .6CFM at 90psi and 1 CGM at 40psi. Those guns need 9 and 12 CFM.

I can't believe the markup on prices here in Canada. No wonder consumers order from the US.